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critical of a critic…

Burgundy looks a year further back as the 2008 vintage comes on sale here this month. After an unpromising early diagnosis, the grapevine suggests that it could be a delicious short- to medium-term option.
Anthony Rose, The Independent 2nd January 2010

I usually enjoy the writings of Anthony Rose, but I have to stand-up on this one. The Independent is a broad-circulation newspaper, and people may make purchasing decisions on Anthony’s throwaway assessment of the vintage – actually I cannot find anything in the words that indicate that Anthony has tasted a single wine, or even which colour he is discussing!

Frankly, and let’s talk red, if you want “a delicious short- to medium-term option” you should be buying the 2007s. The only thing short-term about the 2008 vintage is that many wines will never taste better than in their first couple of years in bottle. Once the young ‘puppy-fat’ fruit shrinks to the acidity-driven structure of the wines, they will only be for laying down. Great bottles will come around by 2030, though perhaps 2040 could be nearer the mark…

Let’s give Anthony the benefit of the doubt and assume he is talking about whites (he’s not…!), and he is closer to the mark; slightly fuller and richer than 2007s, they are, and will be, super short, medium and long-term wines – assuming no oxidation issues down the road.

Sorry, but I just found it a very lazy, hence, miss-leading piece of journalism.

3 responses to “critical of a critic…”

  1. Daniel

    The 2008 red seems not bad!
    I just received some 2008 Burgundy En Primeur offers, and here are my personal picks:
    Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Christian Sérafin
    La Grande Rue, Grand Cru, Domaine Lamarche
    Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Malconsorts Hudelot-Noellat

    2008 whites?
    I prefer 2006 and 2007, and already have several cases in my cellar….

  2. Daniel

    just some personal favorites..

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

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