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2006 bouchard père monthélie 1er clos les champs fulliot

Not that cheap, but a very good wine: 2006 Bouchard Père et Fils, Monthélie 1er Clos les Champs Fulliot This is a ‘domaine’ wine. Medium-plus cherry-red colour. There’s width and interest on this perfumed, high-toned nose – very pretty indeed, almost in a Volnay style. The texture has a slightly gravelly tannin as its base, but the balance is very, very good. There’s some faint licorice flavours in the finish from what is otherwise a red-fruit dominated performance. Oh and it’s quite a good finish too. Rebuy – Yes

2000 antonin guyon corton-charlemagne

2000 Antonin Guyon, Corton-Charlemagne Medium-plus golden colour. Despite the colour, there is no trace of oxidation here, rather it is forward but well integrated sweet brioche oak, behind is a good, freshly mineral base. Concentrated, silkily, waxily smooth texture. The acidity is understated and the flavours are a mix of the mineral and savoury. Very mineral finish that is also very long. This should be at it’s best in another 4 or 5 years, but it did rather on day1 – day two was even better! Rebuy – Yes

a funny performance…

A couple of weekend bottles. Somebody else’s house and glassware made for puzzling performances from both of these wines – in both cases totally unlike the last bottles I tasted: 2007 Mischief & Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet Wow this bursts with toasty-ness, brioche and just about everything but fruit. There is concentration and acidity but no togetherness. The sweet fruit across the tongue held it together, but it seemed quite peculiar. 2004 Pascal Lachaux, Clos St.Denis Hmm, whilst the 04 character is very, very tiny (like before), the aromas are rather diffuse and slightly stemmy. In the mouth there is some balance, but the texture and concentration of the last bottle seems largely absent… I was bemused – perhaps it was the piercing Muscat we started with!

06 bouchard père et fils volnay 1er caillerets cuvée carnot

I may have criticised the last Bouchard (the Mercurey) for it’s relative (versus quality) value, and here is a wine that has more than doubled in price since the 2002 vintage, yet despite being unhappy about that, there is something innate and worth paying for in a good Volnay – and this has the potential for very good! 2006 Bouchard Père et Fils, Volnay 1er Caillerets Cuvée Carnot The nose shows a width of creamy red fruit and perhaps has a rose-petal dimension too – really very pretty. Plenty of concentration, the tannin is slightly forward but of velvet texture. A good additional fruit dimension in the mid-palate with understated but balancing acidity. The flavour of the finish remains very barrel-influenced today, but is very [….]

auctions and buying ‘old’ wine

auctions and buying ‘old’ wine

You know that ‘provenance’ – i.e. knowing somethings ownership history – is not just a special thing when buying older (for which I class everything that has been on the market for more than 2 years!) wine, it is everything! That’s not because I’m particularly concerned about where the seller got the bottles from – though I suppose I should be – rather because a few weeks of inappropriate storage will render the contents of those bottles dead. The main source of older bottles is at auction. Apart from rare sales where bottles come direct from producer’s cellars, buying is, based on my experience, a complete lottery – hence, today I only bid low. There is, however, an outstanding chance to acquire older bottles at [….]

06 confuron-cotetidot bourgogne pinot noir

2006 Confuron-Cotetidot, Bourgogne Pinot Noir Medium cherry-red. Sweet, only slightly smokey stems, rather candied red/blue fruit. The palate is as sweet as the nose, with understated acidity. Occasional sips give a padded, slightly plush texture, but most show a mid-palate/tannins with a slightly astringent, sharp effect. Quite long finishing, but this far from a ‘together’ wine. Day two, less aromatically interesting, but more ‘together’ on the palate. I’ll give it the benefit of the doubt and say wait another year or two – it’s not really for today though… Rebuy – Maybe

living with wine, samantha nestor & alice feiring (2009)

living with wine, samantha nestor & alice feiring (2009)

The last book I read turned out to be a bit of a Christmas stocking filler. This one is published in time to make such a list too (and you can already buy it for a discount!), but be warned, you will need a considerably larger stocking! This book is far too big for my bag for the trip to work and back, lucky then that there’s not that much inside to read! This is – pure and simple – a coffee-table book, there are words, but not so many. This is a book of pictures; expensive bottles and expensive polished wood. Wine porn? Perhaps, but I see this more as an interior design book than particularly about wine, rather wine is merely the background [….]

07 bouchard père et fils mercurey

To be honest I think pricing is getting too high for such things. Basic Mercurey should not be significantly more expensive than a well-made regional wine – say plus 25% – this was double the cost of many regionals. It is intrinsically a very nice wine but my instinct tells me it’s poor value for money, hence, the ‘maybe’ rating. 2007 Bouchard Père et Fils, Mercurey High-toned, very pretty cherry aromas with a relatively understated oak-spice component. Jammy, it’s a fruit preserve impression. Good acidity and a slightly more grown-up stance in the mid-palate. The tannin has a slight grain. This medium length wine is actually quite tasty – a second glass? – why not! Rebuy – Maybe

2006 albert bichot beaune 1er champimonts

2006 Albert Bichot, Beaune 1er Champimonts Medium cherry-red. High-toned perfume of crunchy cherry-fruit eventually a little creamy oak. There is good width and an edge of fat to the texture too. A creamy vanilla-oak barrel note runs through the core of this and into the mid-palate. Medium, slightly peppery tannin and a good length. For my taste this needs a little cellar time to both round out and to reduce the barrel flavour, but it’s ripe, sweet and tasty already today, and was a very good price. Rebuy – Yes

2008 chablis réserve de vaudon

My first 2008 from bottle. 2008 Domaine Vaudon, Chablis Réserve de Vaudon Medium-pale lemon-yellow. The nose starts in a forward way, the aromas are somewhere on the border between oak toast and earthy minerality – it’s a great balancing act – slowly it is more towards the toasty bread part of the spectrum. In the mouth, the concentration gives a decent slightly oily, padded texture, but it’s a transient impression as the zinging grapefruit-style acidity takes hold. There is a sweetness that is the perfect foil to that grapefruit. Refreshing, not bad length, this is superb for the price and already a candidate for house wine 2010! A small amount left for day 2 had no trace of toast whatsoever, but was also missing that [….]

2000 pavelot savigny-lès-beaune 1er la dominode

2000 pavelot savigny-lès-beaune 1er la dominode

2000 Pavelot, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Dominode Medium-plus colour, still a hint of cherry-red colour. The nose is rather ‘anti-2000’ with a beacon of pure, fresh, faintly blue-skinned fruit at the core and a top note that is slightly more diffuse and herby (that’s a little more 2000!). The palate is not as plush as it was in its youth, but the late attack of the tannins I noticed in previous bottles is now gone – they are are certainly still there if you look for them, but are no problem now. Decently balanced, it’s as ripe as most 2000s but with a fresher aspect to the aromas. Decently concentrated and showing a wiry muscle, I regret only buying 6, I regret even more that only 3 [….]

is this bottle corked?, kathleen burk & michael bywater (2009)

is this bottle corked?, kathleen burk & michael bywater (2009)

Do you, like me, inwardly groan (while still offering a cheery smile) each and every time somebody buys you something to do with wine as a birthday or Christmas present? – or perhaps a card resplendent with bottles and glasses? Come-on everyone, we are individuals, let’s have a little imagination! – what about the card with the cute puppy instead? – oops, no I have 3 of those already. Okay I give up! In front of me, I have the book ‘Is this bottle corked’, subtitled ‘The secret life of wine’. The cover seems a relatively unimaginative, as do the selected quotes from the Times (of London!), The Times (of Oxford!) and ‘The Diplomat’ – wow do diplomats get their own paper(?) It looks like [….]

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