I was potentially setting up a bit of a whinge – the 1986 Mosel was opened first and the colour of the wine was medium lemon-yellow. As the worm of the corkscrew slid into the cork of the Chablis, the last of a tasty half-case, I was already mentally writing this note: ‘7 year-old oxidised Chablis versus baby-faced 22 year-old riesling’. Fortunately like every other bottle from this case – good quality at a decent price.

2001 Long-Depaquit, Chablis 1er Les Vaillons
Medium golden colour. The nose has some high tones of green-skinned fruit that balances a honied base enough to retain a fresh impression. Width and a little sweet fat – the acidity is fresh though from time to time nearly spiky. The flavours are mineral, a little baked bread and a final salty tang. The finish is quite long and totally savoury.
Rebuy – Yes