After the ’98 Fevre, I thought it safe to pull out another – if you have any of these, I suggest you drink them quickly. Perhaps I’ll pull out the last of my ’98s – I have a Jadot Charlemagne somewhere. I hope that this informal trio (Fevre, JM Boillot & Jadot) don’t become the good, the bad and the ugly!

1998 Jean-Marc Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet
This has medium colour, but the colour is hovering somewhere between golden and orange. The first aromas are tight, slightly honeyed but as it opens the oxidative character comes to the fore. In the mouth there’s good acidity, sweetness and above-average density – it’s quite silky too. Particularly impressive length with intensity and many dimensions that include creamy, caramelised fruits. It starts as borderline drinkable for someone who dislikes oxidation, but fills out with ever-more complexity and interest – indeed, after a couple of hours it became very drinkable with hints of caramel and toffee pushing the oxidative aspects from center-stage.
Rebuy – No
Last drunk in 2005, this was a very tasty bottle. This is prematurely oxidised for sure – whether it’s the virulent ‘random’ strain of p.ox, I cannot say, but the level of oxidation was about on the same level as a 40 year old Leroy Meursault drunk here…