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the one that got away

Clos St.Jacques Pernot-Fourrier

Clos St.Jacques Pernot-Fourrier

A little tardy, but I thought I would share with you my notes on probably the only dinner that Bill didn’t get to in Glasgow last month. There were some beauties here, not least of which was the gorgeous Pernot-Fourrier. This is the same domaine as is run today by Jean-Marie Fourrier. Before Jean-Claude took over the domaine, the wines were made by his uncle Fernand Pernot … and a darn good job he made of it, if this bottle is anything to go by.

Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots 1992
Rich, even slightly madeirised on the nose. Very rich in the mouth – touches of pinepapple, but with a hard mineral core. Surprisingly little acidity showing here, fully resolved, and with a very long finish. Impressive rather than loveable. 4

Potinet-Ampeau Meursault Charmes 1966
Initially quite fat and waxy, quite unpromising, but this blossomed sensationally over 30 minutes in the glass. Nutty and complete. Broad and ample in the mouth, but with an astonishing lightness too. Lovely. 5-

Remoissenet Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 1986
Big and bold on the nose, still with an edge of citric freshness to it. Very big and bright in the mouth, even buxom, but with a core of minerality. Good length on the finish too, but isn’t really harmonious and lacks sophistication after the Meursault. 4+

Meo-Camuzet Vosne Romanee Cros Parantoux 1993
Big, intense and heady perfume : “in your face”. Great perfume and suppleness in the mouth. Meaty and intense, with overtones of violets. Dense and dark but with real purity. Big and long. Still really very tight, and still didn’t come together even after an hour in the glass. Hold for 10 years plus. 5

Pernot-Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St Jacques 1978
Almost feral on the nose, but there is lovely ripe red fruit beneath aswell as that earthy gaminess. A classic mature Gevrey, though it doesn’t display the sheer class of the CP. Wonderfully smooth and together in the mouth with great acidity pointing up the fruit (but not intruding). Great drinking with the deer, but not truly great. 4+

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