Our weekend get-together, where I culled the notes for those super Remoissenet bottles, also included a ‘walk-round-tasting’ of bottles supplied by the attendees, followed (after a quick shower) by an evening dinner. Before we started dinner, I counted 21 bottles at our table – which sat 9 people I think! – though (memo to self) we sadly had a dearth of sweeter wines. Perhaps the glasses could have been better, but the company surely couldn’t. I only offer you here the burgundy notes from our Paulée-style evening, but be assured that our glasses were generously augmented by Germans, Australians and, amongst others, teeth-staining Bandols. This first installment offers you the whites, tomorrow (I’m a slow typist) the reds.
1993 Leflaive, Bourgogne Blanc
A medium, in fact quite young looking yellow. A little creamy, mature lanolin underpins the aromas of a younger wine. In the mouth it is linear and quite mineral until a small burst of interest in the mid-palate and a nice finish. Whilst the acidity is the defining feature of the wine, it has just enough padding that it doesn’t become jarring. Everyone around the room was sure it was a Puligny…
Rebuy – Yes
2001 Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Pucelles
A much deeper colour than the 93 bourgogne. The colour made me rush to smell – but no problems with oxidation here, only caramellised butter and hints of citrus for freshness – it was actually very nice. In the mouth it definitely needed time to unwind and I’m sure it never fully did, but the texture and impression is of density coupled to long, lingering flavours. Not much complexity today or even excitement come to that, despite all, it still made a strong impression around our table.
Rebuy – Yes
2003 Louis Jadot, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Folatières
A few hints of oxidation on the nose, but it’s largely fresh and interesting. In your mouth this wine is all over the place and despite evident complexity and some additional dimension – not just oxidation! – in the mid-palate it’s frankly a mess. Poorly judged acidification or just an impossible vintage? I don’t know but it seemed to have plenty of acidity.
Rebuy – No

5 reds to follow…