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good-bye white burgundy & drc ‘control-freaks’…

good-bye white burgundy & drc ‘control-freaks’…

Australian white burgundy that is… Now what about Domaine de la Romanée-Conti? You don’t see too much critique of the domaine as people are probably too worried that they might ‘lose’ their allocations of wine, but I think I will (eventually) raise a valid point here. I took delivery of a modest 4 bottles of DRC 05 last week. I’m not sure why I decidied to open the package, maybe it was just to see if the labels were solid gold to reflect market pricing – the answer was yes, and no, one of the bottles was indeed gold – a gold-topped bottle of Montrachet, the thing is I didn’t order one… The Montrachet was mistakenly in the package in place of a more modest [….]

offer of the day…

offer of the day…

DOMAINE LEFLAIVE 2007 – Puligny-Montrachet PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 75cl 69.50 Swiss francs PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Les Clavoillons 75cl 98.00 MEURSAULT Sous le Dos d’Âne 75cl 99.50 PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Les Folatières 75cl 139.00 PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Les Combettes 75cl 139.00 PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Les Pucelles 75cl 169.00 PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Les Pucelles 150cl 343.00 BIENVENUES BATARD MONTRACHET 75cl 289.00 BATARD MONTRACHET 75cl 299.00 CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET 75cl 389.00 I’m looking hard to see value. Nope, didn’t find any…

autumn 2008 report…

Was in Burgundy Thursday-Friday; Both days were freezing and foggy/misty – only about -2°C but the modest wind made it feel much cooler – a bit more about that tomorrow. Anyway returning to a weekend of hard typing has provided enough of the Autumn Report for me to release it. The compendiums of notes for bottled 2006’s plus the rest, will trickle through in the next days.

latour 05 meursault-blagny 1er château blagny

2005 Louis Latour Meursault-Blagny 1er Château de Blagny Medium-pale yellow. The nose is wide and dense, with deep with a concentrated core of chunky pineapple – you have to wait for quite some time before higher-toned, more floral aspects, eventually peek through. Fresh and ebullient on the tongue, starting narrow and widening on the mid-palate. ‘Just enough’ acidity comes late and there’s a nice extra edge of slightly chalky fruit flavour as you go into the finish. The texture is good and so is the flavour, but there’s far from exciting concentration. I would need a little more acid ‘cut’ before I could describe this as mineral. Tasty and clean but initially hard to get worked up about. Right until the bottle was drained, this [….]

barrel art…

Angels’ Share barrel art: Lots more pictures here too.

1980 domaine les perrières gevrey 1er petites chapelles

Domaine Les Perrières is based in Gevrey, and seemed to be appreciated by RMP Jr himself – including this particular wine – when he published his 1989 ‘Burgundy’ book. RMP noted that proprietor François Perrot made wine from a 2.77 acre parcel of Petit Chapelles – Matt Kramer’s book of the same year lists SC Les Perrières as owning just 1.6 acres, so he must have been farming additional parcels too. So what happened to the domaine? Well it still seems to exist, semi-anonymously, maybe it’s worth a visit… Anyway, this wine is another auction purchase – I also got a coupe of bottles of ‘64 Clos de Bèze, but don’t expect to be opening those any time soon – given the bizarre performance of [….]

offer of the day…

DOMAINE JACQUES PRIEUR – Millésime 2007 Vins blancs PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Les Combettes 75cl 78.00 Swiss francs MEURSAULT Perrières 75cl 109.00 CORTON CHARLEMAGNE 75cl 128.00 CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET 75cl 219.00 MONTRACHET 75cl 399.00 Vins rouges VOLNAY Champans 75cl 66.00 VOLNAY Clos des Santenots 75cl 69.50 CORTON BRESANDES 75cl 109.00 CLOS DE VOUGEOT 75cl 109.00 CHAMBERTIN 75cl 159.00 ECHEZEAUX 75cl 169.00 MUSIGNY 75cl 218.00 Probably just about in-line with (pre-hype) 2005 and 2006. That’s the going rate for Montrachet, the Musigny shows comparitive value…

bertagna vougeot 1er clos des perrieres 2005

bertagna 2005 vougeot 1er clos des perrières

2005 Bertagna, Vougeot 1er Clos des Perrières Deep cherry-red colour. The nose opens with fine, high-toned, red and black berry notes over a deeper, brooding core of fruit – eventually there’s a lovely pure redcurrant note in the emptying glass. In the mouth the acidity starts just a shade bright on the tongue though it contributes to a good, slowly lingering finish. Perhaps it was me, but 30 minutes in the acidity seemed okay. Tight, linear fruit with buried soft tannin and an understated, almost ethereal extra dimension of fruit on the mid-palate that follows also into the finish. Very excellent but other bottles should be left for at least 10 years. Rebuy – Yes

berry bros and rudd 1909 burgundy pricelist

catching up…

Rather than (as intended) smoking my keyboard with prose for next weekend’s scheduled Autumn issue of the Burgundy Report, I seem to have spent a whole day trying to catch up on what’s gone on over the last 3 weeks. First I particularly like the post on the Berry Bros weblog that commemorates their 1909 price-list whilst launching the 2009 version. I didn’t check the 2009 numbers, but I assume they’re higher! Interesting that (below) Romanée-Conti is not so expensive relative to the other (latent) grand crus – I wonder if they still have some of that Chambertain, Clos St.Jacques in the cellar – it’s not impossible – as it sounds rather interesting… So what else have I spotted(?) Well there’s a nice piece on [….]

savour club 1991 chapelle-chambertin

savour club 1991 chapelle-chambertin

I picked up a few bottles of this at a recent auction – for a relative song if they taste halfway good! The Savour Club still exists in Belgium/Germany/France/Switzerland as a wine merchant, though today they don’t seem (as in this case) to be so actively using their own labels and acting as a négociant. These bottles proudly wear a back label saying that the cuvée “est recommandée par Pierre Troisgros, Restauranteur à Roanne aux membres du Savour Club” – apparently Pierre was an ‘advisor’ to the club. Well that’s a big build-up, question is, is the wine any good? 1991 Savour Club, Chapelle-Chambertin Differing from the label, the cork is actually printed with Chapelles-Chambertin – perhaps that means it comes from both parts – [….]

leroy volnay clos des chênes

1998 leroy volnay clos des chênes

The label assumes that you know that ‘Volnay Clos Des Chênes’ is a premier cru as there is no mention of ‘rank’. This is far from a cheap bottle – 70 Swiss francs – but the tariff is in-line with several producers’ current 1er cru offerings from the Côte de Beaune, it also has the benefit of another 8 years of aging, though clearly a lot 1998’s needed it… 1998 Maison Leroy, Volnay 1er Clos des Chênes Deep ruby-red colour. The nose is herbal and meaty with background sweetness and quite some sense of maturity. In the mouth there is the rasp of ’98 tannins, but they are rather a background element. More to the fore is the sweet but freshly packaged fruit – quite [….]

louis jadot 2005 beaune 1er clos des ursules

louis jadot 2005 beaune 1er clos des ursules

Hmm, it’s a couple of weeks since I had a nice bottle, this really made up for it! 2005 Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Clos des Ursules Medium-plus ruby-red colour with some purple still at the rim. The nose starts robustly, full with dark fruit – similar to the 2005 Pierre Morey Bourgogne – but offering a purer darker core of fruit – time in the glass gives this a narrower, more blueberry impression. Though well balanced, the palate seems rather tight, though the extra mid-palate dimension and corresponding length is on a super level, it really does linger. A super bottle. Rebuy – Yes

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