A nice restaurant with a super wine-list. Actually they don’t have a list, you have to wander around the underground rooms that make up the cellar and just find a bottle – or two! About 50% of the bottles are priced, for the rest you must ask. I wanted something reasonably mature, so ended up with a short-list of 3: 1991 Dujac Gevrey 1er Combottes, 1991 Ponsot Latrcières-Chambertin and 1992 Dujac Clos St.Denis. All were roughly the same price – I could have taken any number of 1995’s (Rousseau St.Jacques, Drouhin Musigny etc.,etc., for less money – but in the end I went for the (expected) mature 1992 and saved the 91’s for another day 😉
1992 Dujac, Clos St.Denis
A medium, quite mature colour. The nose starts deep, stemmy and interesting – over the next two hours it goes from strength to strength, with red berries, mineral notes of pencil lead, occasional caramel or cream etc., etc. – it was first class. In the mouth I expected it would have little chance of competing with the aromatics and so it turned out – but it was still a worthy choice. Not the density of of a grand cru from most (recent) vintages, medium bodied with very slightly elevated acidity, but as the wine developed and became sweeter this was hardly noticeable. The faintest hint of tannin remains and the wine never withered in 2 hours, rather it became more interesting and complex. This is mature, reasonably long and tasty. Nine from ten for the nose and more like seven for taste. Lovely.
Rebuy – Yes