Villages

2008 Bachelet Jean-Claude Puligny-Montrachet

By billn on September 27, 2011

Medium yellow. The nose is fresh though with a ripe slab of yellow fruit at the centre-stage. In the mouth this has a slghtly oily, fat texture – absolutely not a negative with such a buffer of very good acidity. There is understated power and a very good energy, particularly I like the gooseberry flavoured finish. Fine Puligny villages.

2008 Barthod Ghislaine Chambolle-Musigny

By billn on September 19, 2011

Good colour. The nose starts in a good way and just keeps getting better; adding dimensions of violet flowers and eventually a raspberry and recurrent impression. Energy and acidity in fine balance with a melange of red fruits. Good in the finish too – this is very lovely right now.

2008 Lignier Lucie et Auguste Fixin Champs de Vosger

By billn on September 13, 2011

Medium yellow. The nose is faintly sweet with an undertow of flowers and maybe a hint of sulfur. In the mouth this has a lovely bubbling acidity – I remember the 07 being borderline tart – bright and pretty but with a nice sweetness and extra width of flavour in the mid-palate. Lingering on a mouth-watering note. Many Fixins seem to me rather too savoury in their youth and whilst interesting, I wouldn’t be filling my cellar with them. This one avoids that ‘trap’ and begs a top-up to the glass. Yum.

1995 Dujac Morey St.Denis

By billn on September 11, 2011

Medium rusty-red. The nose is a blend of stemmy perfume – and at this age it really is perfume – and a higher-toned fresh plum fruit that flirts with a floral dimension; it’s quite lovely and keeps drawing me back for another sniff as the fruit changes to cherry and even redcurrant with time. In the mouth it doesn’t quite have that melt-in-the-mouth texture that you get with a perfectly matured wine, but there’s freshness and a structure that remains bright, indeed almost stern. The acidity is just about perfect, being the baseline for a beautifully understated but fine finish. Such a shame that I have only three or four more of these.

2008 Boisset Jean-Claude Côte de Nuits Villages Le Creux de Sobron

By billn on September 07, 2011

The name is clearly a mouthful – fortunately the wine is very good mouthful. Ripe but fresh fruit on the nose – quite forward. In the mouth this has plenty of energy and fine acidity which could turn a little mouth puckering in a couple of years, but today it is just joyous. There is a little mid-palate muscle and good intensity too. A line of mouth-watering flavour lingers in the finish. Yum – and an absolute bargain…

2008 Olivier Antoine et Rachel Santenay Les Coteaux Sous La Roche

By billn on August 28, 2011

Medium-pale. The nose is quite buscuity/toasty bread with an underlying sweetness. In the mouth there’s lovely acidity and sweetness though to start it seems there’s a bit of a hole in the middle – give it a few minutes and the intensity increases and it comes into a good place. Everybody wanted a top-up from this one!

2007 Boisset Jean-Claude Marsannay Blanc

By billn on August 10, 2011

Medium yellow. The nose has some very faint bread, a few higher tones and a denser core – perhaps more savoury than fruity. Density, again with a savoury flavour, there’s good acidity yet it seems to stand to the side rather than take command of the core – but there’s also a nice extra creamy flavour in the mid-palate. Quite full, indeed a little dense because the lack of authority from the acidity. Wait 90 minutes and the fruit comes more to the fore and takes on a better focus as the acidity integrates. Plenty of flavour here and eventually balance too – perhaps the screw-cap just needs a bit of aeration. A bit of a bargain.

2008 Lignier Lucie et Auguste Chambolle-Musigny Les Bussières

By billn on August 07, 2011

Medium-plus colour. The nose (doubtless with a little auto-suggestion) does make me think of Chambolle, a slightly earthy, powerful Chambolle aromatic – but Chambolle all the same. Not a wine of complexity, but there is balance, intensity and forwardly frank flavours that are very tasty indeed. The structure is there but it is more than countered by the fruit extract and flavour right now. A tad simple, but drained to the last drop – lovely.

2009 Clark David Côte de Nuits Villages

By billn on July 29, 2011

Only a hint more than medium colour. I’ve come to expect a bit of stubborn background reduction in David Clark’s wines but there’s not even a hint of it here; a little toasted bread (more like a white). In the mouth this is forward, fresh and quite intense. The flavours have a bit of the floral about them, the red fruit being far from the 09 vernacular of overtly ripe and sweet. Just a hint of oak flavour in the finish too. This is a wine that drinks quite well now but I suspect it will be on another level in 6-12 months. Very accomplished.

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