Vintage Appraisal

2013s… (and a bit of gevrey!)

By billn on May 06, 2015 #travels in burgundy 2015#vintage appraisal

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Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles today…

The 2013 whites were rather accurately reported I think, but I really felt that the reporting on the 2013 reds was all over the place – more-so than the wines themselves.

Of-course I’m talking about good addresses, and, in the main, Côte de Nuits domaines (which I’m visiting this month), but the wines where I’ve re-tasted (as much as any new wines tasted) show that the 2013s have put on more weight and richness versus the November-December tasting jamboree. The end of 2014 had more dissolved CO2, more forward acidity (emphasised by the gas) and less richness than the wines show today.

I keep telling myself “November is a great time to taste, but that’s not what gets bottled…” – it seems that others (erroneously imho) think that they can be more definitive without any attempt to extrapolate.

Effectively, the problem with many reports I saw was that they described only the wines (ergo the vintage) at that moment in time, to say that this vintage is ‘x’ without using other vintages as reference points – with those reference points in place, you can reasonably say that a vintage should be x or y in character once (maybe in more than 6 months) it’s bottled – this was largely absent from any critique. Oh-well…

And for Dan, as I’ve written elsewhere, today those wines show more like a blend of 2010 and 2009, than the hypothetical 2010/2008 impression they gave in November.

Anyway, a bit of Gevrey-Chambertin today:

2007’s

By billn on July 15, 2008 #vintage appraisal

I was planning to write a few notes on the 2007’s for the next burgundy report – another 2 weeks? – but there are too many requests on the subject to ignore.  Briefly you only need to look here to see what the winemakers were up against in the vintage, but moving onto what’s in barrel:

Whites
Life is relatively easy here, not too many problems with the grapes but there was some botrytis in a number of plots.  The whites have the necessary freshness and it seems quite some depth too – the good run for white burgundy continues (ignoring post-bottling issues).  On average it seems that the whites will exceed the quality of the reds.

Reds
I will naturally restrict my commentary to those that made a good selection of grapes.  Since the turn of the year, and in both Côtes, the wines have been about fruit, fruit and fruit – soft and red and very comely.  They have been very attractive but without great weight or structure.  Post malo and resting on their lees they have slowly put on weight – many have become quite serious, particularly in the grand appellations of the Côte de Nuits.  Using that terrible phrase ‘on average’ they will be for drinking before their counterparts from 2006 and certainly 2005 but should exceed the quality of the 2004’s.

Burgundy Report

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