Jancis has some books for next year’s Christmas stocking!
If you can get by in French, let me introduce you to a great guidebook to the Côte d’Or.
Published in the summer and described as a ‘roadbook’, it seems quite up-to-date, and is filled with the (obligatory) Pitiot-Poupon-derived vineyard maps and some lovely photos from the same people that do the Panogeo images.
Unlike a traditional book about the region this offers additional schematics (maps) of the villages – as opposed to the vines – showing where the hotels, bars and restaurants of note are – i.e. the ones they’ve each profiled in a couple of sentences. There is a little introduction to each village, a profile of a couple of producers and/or wines of note too. Finally a little place for you to jot some notes of your own!
It’s not a book to read if I may say so – in fact it’s not really a book, it’s a guide – rather it is for dipping into. And a good dip it provides.
In this case the Côte d’Or is defined as Marsannay to Maranges and includes pages on the Hautes Côtes de Nuits and Hautes Côtes de Beaune. The index begins on page 207 – so lots of info for a paltry Euros 13.90. Great for a few days break, though possibly worth trying to get hold of a copy before you leave – you might even decide to camp! 😉
I’m away for a couple of days and a big pile of envelopes are waiting for me.
Once or twice a year I scour a few favourite booksellers to see if they have anything new (old actually) for me. You can buy books for relatively nothing – such are authors reduced to, their book becoming less expensive than the stamp needed to send it! – nine new (old) ones arrived for the price of a villages Burgundy.
Actually talking of wine I should open something nice.
2007 Jomain, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Perrières
A depth of aromas, slightly musky with hints of creme brulee. This is rather unctuous for an 07, lots of depth but very understated acidity – again lots of complexity, plenty of creamy vanilla from the barrels. The flavour grows in the mid-palate, before a long diminuendo in the finish – and there really is a lot of complexity – only here do you find the characteristic minerality of this vineyard. There is no overt toast shown by this concentrated and impressive wine, but all the same, I’d have preferred a little less barrel flavour in this relative youth.
Rebuy – Yes
The Jomain that follows seems to have missed out on the bright acidity if the vintage, but its complexity is undeniable. I followed the Puligny with Dublère’s 2008 Bourgogne Millerandes – the extra acidity of the Bourgogne gave it a different dimension and it wasn’t as disadvantaged as one might at first suppose!
Subtitled: A Forgotten Grape and the Untold Story of American Wine
Now here is a book that I didn’t really know whether I wanted to read, or not. The marketing commentary gave me the impression that the storyline might have been a little twee [adj. Brit excessively sentimental], but I’m glad I went through with it!
What we have here is part historical research, part novel(?) and certainly the narrative of our author taking a journey – though Sideways it is not!
The book follows the ups and downs – and it’s quite a lot of downs – of the Norton vine; from discovery, the immigrant population who took to the vine, through prohibition, back from the brink and then the hard slog of marketing its produce versus merlot, cabernet etc., etc. But it’s not just the story of the vine, it’s also a story of where the vine came from; Virginia, Missouri – this Midwest region that’s now fighting a similar battle to be recognised versus upstart domestic rivals such as California.
The book has a novel-like feel because the story is wrought and intertwined through the efforts of a few central characters – both historical and modern – and fortunately it largely avoids the make-believe embellishments of Tilar Mazzeo’s book. There are quite some twists too!
The prose is highly readable, though I did think it became a little florid through pages 200-220 (roughly) – fortunately it recovered it’s rhythm. For me, only one thing was missing and that was some attempt at a conclusion or, going forward, an outlook. The last chapter (it’s only 2 or 3 pages from 260) is highly personalised to the author – and why not, it is also his journey through the narrative that we are following – but it is the author in a dark place following the loss of his father, it is perhaps the only few pages of the book that didn’t hold my attention given its tangential connection to the overall book.
Verdict: Definitely worth packing into your case for the beach holiday.
Here’s a book that’s been on my bookshelf for a couple of years now, but one that I do periodically return to. Unlike the recent Lincoln Russell book of photos there is a thread of text that runs through this – though it helps if you can read French!
Alfred Gaspart only later in his life became celebrated as an artist, but he seems a fascinating individual. He was born in Argentina in 1900. Whilst his mother was Argentinean, his father was of French Basque origin. Also with two sisters Alfred and the family moved to France in 1903. Gaspart studied art and began working in both painting and photography, initially settling in Paris. From his Paris base he travelled to, and took much artistic inspiration from, the Mediterranean.
When world war 2 started Gaspart was first imprisoned in Saint-Die in Alsace (Lorraine as was) and, after unsuccessful escape attempts, he ended up in Stalag VIIA in Moosburg, Bavaria from 1940 to 1944. Much of his later artwork, including another book, drew on over 2000 sketches and portraits of fellow prisoners. Gaspard died on March 12, 1993.
For years Gaspart maintained a steady correspondence with his elder sister Paule (Paula), she appeared in many of his works, including just one photo in this book. The series of letters, in French, to Paule about his experience of “the weather, fears of bad harvests, the care of the vineyards and the production of the wine” are the thread that hold the pictures in this book together. Gaspart’s wider photographic work drew on landscapes, portraits, city-scapes and still lives, a diversity of theme that stood him in good stead for a collection that offers a glimpse of life in the Côte de Beaune where, from September of 1935 through most of 1936, he chronicled the workers and wine making in the area.
Pictures highlighting streets, vineyards and even ploughing horses could almost be contemporary! This book seems to be out of print at amazon but were still plenty of copies in Beaune’s Athaenium when I was there two weeks ago – you can probably buy direct from their website if you’re interested.
A book that arrived in the post last week. I’ve seen it in the Athenium bookstore in Beaune, but otherwise I found it available only from the book’s own website and this is quite canny if you’re publishing yourself; you receive the full $50 per copy, not $5 or whatever you get from amazon while they discount it to $22! Of-course you are much harder to find without amazon…
This is a reasonably large size book, roughly the same size as ‘Remington Norman’s’ updated book – but its 168 pages are in landscape format versus Norman’s portrait. Matt, burgundy cloth covered, it’s only decoration is a wine-bottle styled label.
If it’s not obvious from the title, this is a book of Côte d’Or photos, shot over about 2 years – and what lovely photos they are too – you almost have a sense of getting under the skin of region.
As I normally moan about ‘forewards’, this book laughs in my face with a ‘foreward’, an ‘introduction’ and then an ‘afterword’ – but then it needs them as it is the only text – that the words are contributed by Aubert de Villaine, Allen Meadows and Guillaume d’Angerville lends them a certain gravitas.
There’s no getting away from it, this is a very pretty book but it is also a coffee table book. Given that my coffee-table remains clutter-free I find I don’t engage with such books enough. You spend many hours with a written book before consigning it to the bookshelf, photobooks are looked at only a few times before finding their place on the shelf; I don’t regret buying it, but personally get more value from a book with words.
It was while visiting Aubert de Villaine way back in 2005 that he recommended this book to me, and despite it only (at that time) being available in French, I picked up a copy. It’s probably a measure of my French niveau that I recollect scarcely a thing – except for a quote to the effect ‘when I drink Burgundy, I piss Bordeaux’ – not sure how I remembered that one!
Anyway, once the English translation came out I felt compelled to revisit, and I’m pleased that I did. This book is about the histories and interactions of and between France’s two great wine regions – Burgundy and Bordeaux – effectively the ‘how and why’ the regions are as we know them today. It’s not just about how one region uses merlot and the other pinot, rather it is how history, politics and their respective trading partners shaped the regions as we see them today.
This is such a thoughtful and studied book and it manages, as close as possible, to toe a very difficult line that seems bias free – a tough task, you can be sure! Excellently researched, some 50 of its 230 pages are given over to detailed references and a bibliography – though I note that the one quote that I remembered from the edition en Français seems to have migrated from the main text to the reference section – maybe it sounded better in French!
Translations can always be tricky, but this really is a first-class piece of work – it is beautifully written. Not just a book for the shelf, this deserves to be revisited over and over, I can’t recommend it highly enough. I’ll leave you with a few quotes:
There is more history than geography in a bottle of wine.
Bordeaux is made in the sun, Champagne in the cellar, and Burgundy in the soil.
The very idea of garage wine, as we shall see, exasperates some connoisseurs and critics. Their annoyance is misplaced, for no-one is obliged to buy over-priced wines.
A certain number of domaines have embraced the methods either of organic agriculture or a stricter version, biodynamics, formulated in the early twentieth century by the German philosopher Rudolf Steiner, who nonetheless condemned the consumption of wine.
Blight was rampant in the 1970s and up until 1985. The use of potash (potassium) was encouraged by a government viticulture official, André Vedel, who recommended the staggering proportion of 2,400 kilograms (more than 5 thousand pounds) per hectare; see Renvoisé, Le Monde du Vin,222. The potash mines may have been shut down in Alsace, but they could have been reopened in the vineyards of Burgundy. It needs to be kept in mind that its effects are not transient, since potash remains in the soil for a very long time.
After I exhibited something approaching enthusiasm for ‘Is this bottle Corked?‘ a reader suggested that I might like to try this tome, so…
Desert Island Wine, is a paperback of 190 pages, the back page boilerplate starting with:
Who says wine is no laughing matter? No such thing as a wine book to take to the beach? Desert Island Wine will leave you howling on your towel as sand collects between the pages. …
Our first ‘chapter’ is a CNN interview of Dionysus; seemingly more designed to show the author’s knowledge of ancient Greek literature – at least I learnt how to spell Dionysus – well I thought I had until I started to write this!
Chapter 2 is a field-guide to Anthropos oenopotis, a big-nosed wine drinker/taster (what on earth is a winebibber?). We all have our own tastes and nothing here has made me howl on my towel – not yet anyway. I’ll persevere for a while…
The next two ‘chapters’ I couldn’t engage with, so, after 3 weeks where I couldn’t force myself to pick the book up, I leave it here. But don’t just take my opinion – this person apparently liked it:
If I ever find myself on a desert island I would want to arrive with a container of champagne and Miles Lambert-Gócs as my fellow castaway. Miles’ encyclopedic knowledge of wine, his classical erudition and his satirical insights into the absurdities of the contemporary wine world, seasoned with literary parodies and dexterous puns, would enlighten and entertain me until the champagne ran out. Cheers!
Tony Aspler, www.the wineguy.com
Maybe he’s saying he has to be drunk to enjoy it 😉
[I read (some of) this, so you don’t have to!]
What a little gold-mine this book turned out to be!
A compact, if not quite pocket-sized, volume of around 120 pages. Published by Pitman in 1977 and reprinted (my copy) in 1978 – also signed by the author. But what of the author? – it’s the first time I’ve heard the name.
According to the introduction, Graham has a background of 25 years in the business (ITB), and whilst he indicates some work together with Pierre Maufoux of Santenay, it’s not initially clear if that is in France or the UK. About 40 pages into the book we find that he works (worked) for Laytons Wine Merchants.
The book is structured around the following sections:
- How Burgundy is Made
- Bottles, Labels and Buying
- Burgundy Wine Journey
- The Food of Burgundy
- An appendix on how to taste wine – not by Graham – it made me laugh until I became bored!
Early on, Graham suggest that he’s not much of a writer, and there are a couple of ‘clunks’ in the opening pages, but then either he got into his stride or I got into mine, because it reads well and his depth of knowledge and pragmatism shines through. He does seem rather ‘suspicious’ of the trend towards domaine-bottling, but there’s an ‘old shipper’ for you 😉
Given that this was first published in 1977, we can assume the text was put together sometime 1975-1976, yet portions of that text could be culled from almost any generation:
“when Burgundy prices, even for the more ordinary wines are rising sharply and some of the cherished names are now in a price-bracket that seems beyond decency…!”
I liked the early discussion of various ‘fraternities’. We all know the Chevaliers du Tastevin and most have heard of the Piliers Chablisiens, but what about the Cousinerie de Bourgogne or the Comité de Bourgogne et l’Ordre des Grands Ducs d’Occident? There is even a hint of a Neal Martin – style observation:
[Observations on a Clos de Vougeot banquet…] “At intervals the whole company in invited to join in by singing the Ban Bouguignon, a song that consists chiefly of the syllables ‘la, la la’, with wagging of the hands held above the head and clappings”
Clearly from the text, the 1970s was a time when many smaller vine-owners came home from a ‘steady’ day-job to tend their vines – I assume a slightly better ‘living’ has been made from the vines for that last 10+ years.
Anyway, despite a good history section, this is a book worth having on the shelf as a snapshot of the 1970s, rather than for specific grower histories (there’s none of that). Some attitudes are timeless, others fit their time. I’ll leave you with a few:
[Millerandage, a term used today to sell a vintage, not-so in the 1970s] “A result of coloure, when bunches of grapes do not fully ripen, millerandage leaves only small green berries on the vine. If these bunches reach the winemaking stage, they impart a harsh and bitter flavour to the wine”
“…the sale of grapes in Burgundy by the grower to the shipper (négoce) is declining today”
“It is also alleged that the Côte de Nuits are beginning to suffer from over-fertilisation of the vineyards to force up production. My experience is not extensive enough to assess the truth of this particular anxiety. However, colour in these wines does seem to be lessening. Too many are lacking in body and, often, they do not have the rich generosity characteristic of the exceptional finesse found in the best wines.”
“Remember never to drink labels – just because the name, vintage and presentation appear great, do not automatically assume that the wine will be equally great. Always go directly to the wine – let it speak for itself. …Certainly in Burgundy the best dressed bottles often contain the dreariest wines…”
“Look out for the off-vintage, gradually learn to trust the shippers whose wines you enjoy by recording the taste impressions. It is no value to blindly follow one shipper or group of shippers because ‘you are told X is a fine shipper’. Discover for yourself – do not accept reputations that can be commercially advanced without quality. Decide for yourself, remain open-minded, be critical and be reasonable enough to change your mind with grace. After all, Burgundy is fun.”