Books, Maps, Magazines & Films

world of fine wine – two great articles…

By billn on September 14, 2015 #books, maps, magazines & films

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I get to see copies of World of Fine Wine relatively infrequently – probably less than half of those issues that are published. I’m not pushed to improve on this ratio, as I often struggle to find articles to suit my interests, but the current issue (48) has a couple of beauties.

  • First, a relatively short article by Michel Bettane about Guy Accad. Accad has always been something of a personal hero for me and somebody I’d love to meet. I know he was a great pioneer in the vineyards, but this is often forgotten in preference for discussing his approaches in the cuverie – these were and still are more controversial, despite such a large uptake of many of his ideas in modern winemaking. Bettane was working in Burgundy at the time of Accad – also something I learned – so has super insight. I should also commend the translation, as I think Bettane doesn’t speak or certainly write English to this level.
  • Second, is an article on geology and the naming of rock-types/timescales – Alex Maltman makes a potentially dreary subject come alive, indeed his writing resounds with (my!) interest. A bigger, feature article this, and really worthy of your time. Alex seems the type of teacher we all wish we’d had during our studies, as his throwaway references to diverse topics such as radioactive decay are clarions of clarity and ease of understanding…

PS An honourable mention should go to Jon Wyand’s critique of Johan Bergund’s new book of photographs. Real, constructive, interesting discussion from a professional perspective!

Book: Recipes from the French Wine Harvest

By billn on September 08, 2015 #books, maps, magazines & films

Rosie-HansonThis book has been waiting for more love than I had time for for, there were simply too many things to do, but now the timing seems perfectly appropriate as the home domaine is approaching mid-harvest.

Rosi, just in case you hadn’t made the connection, is clearly the better half of Anthony Hanson, author of what remains my Burgundy reference: ‘Burgundy’ was my companion for many years as I took to discovering some of this region’s many roads, always aided by Anthony’s text.

This book, a compendium of harvest recipes, is something of a Tour de France, though starts with both feet firmly in Burgundy. Actually, I didn’t realise until opening that this is the 20-year update, having first been published in 1995.

Anyway, I’m still wondering if some of these suggestions from the kitchens of Lafarge, Olivier Leflaive, Pamela & Aubert de Villaine, and Raveneau might make it to our harvest Paulée… 😉

Amazon link
Apple link

producer map of meursault-perrières…

By billn on June 17, 2015 #books, maps, magazines & films

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I’m really happy to have my hands on a copy of this.

Two weeks ago (maybe 3…), Laurent Gotti made a presentation in Beaune of some of the producers’ wines and discussed a little of the complex terroirs of Meursault Perrières – illustrated with this new map. The syndicate of Meursault producers were very happy to help Laurent produce the map, as the only other maps of this style are for much lowlier wines; Montrachet and the Clos de Vougeot!

If you want a copy of the map, it will cost you €19.90 from @laurentgotti – it’s worth it. Now a trip to the picture-framers…

‘museum-ification of wine’

By billn on December 16, 2014 #books, maps, magazines & films#other sites

“Have ultrahigh prices distorted our understanding and enjoyment of wine?”

Well, have they?

I think so. I didn’t used to think and then re-think whether to open a bottle from, for instance, DRC 10-15 years ago. Today it is hard, because it’s not just great wine, it’s a new garage door or a fancy new refrigerator – or in some cases, even a new kitchen.

Good writing, and more importantly, thought-provoking writing, from Matt Kramer – he still has it

NYT – best winebooks of 2014(?)

By billn on December 05, 2014 #books, maps, magazines & films

http://www.nytimes.com/2014/12/10/dining/the-best-wine-books-of-2014.html

I’m guessing that editorial deadlines didn’t leave space for Jon Wyand’s ‘A Year in Corton’ – or maybe because the prose is in French – but the words are only a minor part of this book; a pictorial view of the producers and vines of that famous hill. Worth more than an honourable mention I think 😉

a year in corton…

By billn on November 04, 2014 #books, maps, magazines & films

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A very cool book – really super photos from Jon Wyand – it also looks like he’s been flying a very sturdy kite, given some stunning aerial shots…

see the ownerships within the vineyards…

By billn on February 06, 2014 #books, maps, magazines & films

I initially thought it would be fun to do something like this, but it was very hard to do with French data protection rules etcetera. Anyway, it seems that Christophe Tupinier at Bourgogne Aujourd’hui has got around all that. There are 3 or 4 vineyards treated in this way in his latest (#116) issue.

Well done them, I’m really looking forward to many more of these…

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Volnay Clos de la Chapelle, Philippe Remoissenet (2012)

By billn on November 27, 2013 #books, maps, magazines & films

volnay-clos-de-la-chapelleAs far as I can tell, this book is self-published.
You can buy it from Athenaeum in Beaune.

Philippe Remoissenet, together with Canadian, Mark O’Connell, bought the monopole 1er cru Volnay vineyard of Clos de la Chapelle from Louis Boillot in 2011 – it seemed that his children had no wish to continue as wine-producers – did they have prior warning of the 2012 and 2013’s hail? I bought this book during the 2013 harvest, and for tired eyes, its many short chapters, crammed into less than 100 pages, was exactly what I needed before drifting off to sleep each night. I only returned to it this month, finishing the last 1/3rd of the book in double-quick time.

Remoissenet and O’Connell have entrusted the vines (and wine) of Clos de la Chapelle to Maison Champy, whilst Philippe Remoissenet (I don’t know if he related to the family that ran the eponymous Burgundy merchant…) embarked on what seems like an extensive research for the material in this book. Philippe must have written his ‘original’ in French, as Caroline Hudnut is listed as delivering the English translation – there is an occasional clunk, but generally it is well-done – though I’ve not seen a French version!

This work delves into the history not just of this vineyard, but also of Volnay. There is plenty of social history here and just a bit of copy and paste about biodynamic production 😉 Overall it would be a welcome little ‘stocking-filler’ at Christmas time. I’m happy it’s on my bookshelf!

…un patrimoine millélaire exceptionnel…

By billn on November 18, 2013 #books, maps, magazines & films

It seems that the new book about the climats of the Côte d’Or is launched…

“Climats du vignoble de Bourgogne, un Patrimoine millélaire exceptionnel”, paru aux éditions Génat

https://twitter.com/amantduvin/status/402209455544094720

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