Remoissenet – 2017


Tasted in Beaune with Claudie Jobard, 11 December 2018.

Remoissenet Père et Fils
20 Rue Eugène Spuller
21200 Beaune
Tel: +33 3 80 26 26 66

Claudie on 2018:
2018? – well it started quite bizarrely – the vines started so slowly that we thought it would be the end of October for harvesting. We had so much rain but then the weather changed and the vines grew at a pace that we’ve rarely seen – and we had an early vintage – drole! Then we worried about the dryness as so much rain was followed by so little – really nothing. But still no real deficits and with important degrees of sugar. Unlike the 2017s, these wines have started very linear, at this stage they are almost tiring to taste.

Claudie on 2017:
In 2017 we have 11 ha of new vines on a fermage basis. We took more and more of the grapes each year from this, now retired, producer, but now we are responsible for everything, and it’s the first time that we’ve seen the cellars full.

“Almost the same time of harvesting – 02 September 2017 vs 31 August in 2018. It was a little more calm for harvesting in 2017 because the degrees didn’t mount quite so fast. We had some late rain in 2017 – not like 2018 – it was also a generous vintage, but that depended on the sector. I did worry that the wines would be short of acidity, but in the end the wines do not seem to have suffered from lack of acid.

The cellar looked fuller than I’ve ever seen so I asked the question – “Yes! We’ve more than 1,000 barrels in the cellar this year!

The wines…

Proper, concentrated, full-coloured wines at this producer in 2017. The average quality is really excellent with some peaks and troughs…

Lots of things were assembled at the time of my visit, but not yet bottled. Traditionally no whole clusters here – so no change!

2017 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Serpentières
A large part of this is domaine – 80% today – but have also bought some.
A nice depth of aroma, and attractive too – a faint fumé. Hmm, this is intense and has great concentration. Drive, great flavour. Super Savigny.

2017 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Les Vergelesses
A little more depth of darker fruit – no fumé. Wide – more intense, a nicer profile to the fruit. I love the depth and energy here – really excellent. Long finishing too.

2017 Beaune 1er Marconnets
Fresh, concentrated, floral – yes! Supple, intense, concentrated, vibrant. Excellent!

2017 Beaune 1er Teurons
Domaine ex-Germain – 2 hectares – finally bought in 2012 and then there’s been hardly any crop since then!
A tighter but purer fruit nose. Lots of volume and a more overt density to this wine. Supple, deep and delicious flavour. This is even greater!

2017 Nuits St.Georges
From Bas de Combe
Ooh this is very floral – lots of deliciously violet complexity. More structural, a touch of tannin, but not much – complex, nice but not too much energy – I can see me drinking this already today – but I’d have to take the barrel as it’s not yet bottled!

2016 Gevrey-Chambertin
Hmm, also a very fine aromatic depth here – lovely. Wide, fresh, mouth-watering, great flavour. Bravo!

2016 Nuits St.Georges 1er Damodes
Width and a certain silkiness of dark-red fruit. Some gas, but lots of flavour volume. Complex, melting flavour this will be excellent! Simply delicious in the finish – a shame that it’s harder to read in the middle today.

2017 Vosne-Romanée
Really a deep colour – ‘the colours seem to depend on the malos – early malos seem to have less colour.’ Oof that’s a deep nose. Concentrated – layered, serious wine. Ooh – how did they do this in 2017? There’s tannin here too. Excellent!

2017 Gevrey-Chambertin
Assembly of multiple parcels.
Deep colour, also a deep yet at the same time a tight nose. I love the concentrated width of flavour here. Decadent, delicious and mouth-filling, wrapping flavour around your palate. Sweetness of finishing flavour too. Bravo!

2017 Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Damodes
Starts tight and becomes ever-more floral in the glass – ooh that’s good! Fresh, complex, mouth-filling wine – excellent wine – all that you wish for in 2017 – great concentration too!

2017 Domaine Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cazetiers
A tighter nose yet deeper – no reduction. Full, wide, layered flavour. This is finely textured with just an accent of tannin and almost a coffee note in the depth. Enviable finishing width and length – sooo good!

2017 ​Charmes-Chambertin
Plenty of colour – like all here. The nose is intense and high-toned – but not yet open or really accessible. Mouth-filling – so much mouth-watering and tasty complexity of fruit and other flavour. Long and with a touch of floral showing here. Big, indeed serious, wine that will need time to unfurl…

2017 Clos de Vougeot
Here the nose is exactly like that of the Charmes – work in progress – to wait for. Extra volume, extra freshness – bigger wine if that were possible. But open and with fine melting flavour. Serious wine – to wait for but also I think great wine to wait for!

Les Blancs…

2017 Savigny-lès-Beaune
2 parcels
Nice – fresh open but not a full nose. Here is width, volume, freshness and a great, nagging, intensity – all great – this is delicious – bravo!

2017 Pernand-Vergelesses
A deeper and fresher nose – slightly reductive. More composed – less overt energy after the Savigny – but plenty! Open, delicious wine – excellent!

2017 St.Romain
A less deep nose but with lovely width – this is very attractive – almost slightly floral. Supple but fresh, nicely concentrated – really a lemon-lime style of fruit. Balanced and absolutely delicious. An emblematic cuvée of Remoissenet in the recent years and no different this year!

2017 Beaune St.Desiré
This nose is not quite yet in place. Some gas – energetic wine – lots of depth and fresh but concentrated style. It will be fine – but clearly not yet today

2017 Pernand 1er En Caradeux
Hmm – not the biggest nose, but a fine nose of flowers and citrus fruit. A richness, and a silk but lots of fresh energy too – this is like a little Charlemagne particularly in the finish – I love the balance that this wine shows – bravo!

2017 Santenay 1er Beaurepaire
These vines were once with Girardin, then sold to a Parisian, now they are here.
Hmm a smaller but very attractive, indeed classy, nose. Fuller, almost architectural – it’s big on the palate but with freshness too – a little too big after the Pernand, but still lots of class here. Fine and very long…

2017 St.Aubin Les Castets
Hmm – this is fine and wide, less deep but really attractive. Rich, concentrated deep and full-flavoured. Saline, fresh and with energy. Good but not great I think.

2017 Meursault 1er Les Cras
‘Previous vintages were a battle – this is south-facing, but this vintage – what happened?’
Hmm – now that’s already a great nose – slightly reduced but a proper Meursault spice. Mouth-filling, fresh a touch of textural cushioning, ripe but Meursault spiced. Simply a great village – slight toast in the finish – you can’t do better. Bravo!
2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Champs Gains
A narrow but deliciously wide nose that’s faintly floral and fresh – lovely. Intense, deep, concentrated – layered, fresh flavour – ooh that’s great! The nose is far more discreet than the great flavour today! Also bravo!

2017 Montrachet
Not quite ready, but deep, slightly toasty, slowly growing flowers but more yellow than white. Ooh – but here is concentration, width, depth, almost an oily texture. Modest weight of finish but great length. Too damning with faint praise to say excellent?

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