Boisset Jean-Claude – 2017

5.1.2019billn

Tasted in Nuits St.Georges with Grégory Patriat and Laure Guilloteau, 14 December 2018.

Jean-Claude Boisset
5 Quai Dumorey
21700 Nuits St.Georges
Tel: +33 3 80 62 61 61
www.boisset.fr

Grégory on 2018:
2018 – for us a vintage doubly terrorizing – it was our first vintage in new cuverie – that was the first stress. Fortunately a good vintage we started 28 August, but finished about the 20th September in the Hautes Côtes!

Grégory on 2017:
2017 – versus 2018 an opposite vintage – we started 4th September, it’s lighter vintage than 2018 for sure in the reds, for now it’s harder to say in the whites. For me it wasn’t a vintage to extract as these were already very forward wines – so I took my foot off the accelerator. 2/3 of reds were vinified without sulfur until after the malo – I really see the extra purity from this. So generally less colour in 2017, but it was a function also of how early or late the malo was too (the earlier the malo, the less the colour – Bill). We have elevage that’s largely based on the timing of the malo – early malo and earlier bottling – 12 months – later and the elevage is 18 months, it doesn’t matter if it’s Corton or Marsannay – as you will see, the former 12 months, the Marsannay 18 months…

The wines…

Like many addresses – great wines harder to come by in the mid-ranges, but the grand crus excel. The whites are fine too.

2017 Marsannay
In tank for the last 3 weeks. 30% wc
Lots of colour. Ooh that’s such a great nose, textured, pure, dark fruit – really gorgeous. Supple, fine concentration a tiny touch of tannin – layered gorgeousness – in the finish too – bravo!

2017 Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Planchots
Oops says Greg, this should have been the first wine, here 50% wc. All was lost to the frost in 2016.
A little less colour. Here I note the wc, not in the last wine. A fleshy red fruit on the nose, still attractive. Lithe, nice line, much less concentrated, layered again. Easy, but delicious wine

2016 Chorey-lès-Beaune Les Beaumonts
Still in barrel – a large part of the the vines 115 years old – ‘our oldest vines!’
Dark coloured, like the Marsannay. A silky and deep nose. Fresh – wide, mouth-filling, such silky tannin – such an elegant Chorey, but with lots of volume and depth of flavour – bravo!

2017 Maranges 1er Les Fussières
The young vines from this go into the Bourgogne.
Ooh – that’s a great, perfumed nose of fruit and violets. Direct, a more structural style, but with flavour that slowly grows and fills the space – more elevage needed but this is going in a super direction. Probably excellent – the finish certainly is!

2017 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Peuillets
Also lost all this in 2016.
Ooh what a fine, picture perfect purity of tiny berries – great! Lite but direct, but intense, but growing with depth of flavour in the finish. Who said lite? Proper depth of finishing flavour, slight bitters…

2017 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Aux Guettes
Hmm, a deep, concentrated, textured dark fruit nose with rose petals from the wc – really lovely. Ooh – more directly concentrated and wide, beautifully textured, coffee inflected. Deep – Bravo!

2017 Aloxe-Corton 1er Les Valozières
Next to Prieur’s Corton-Bressandes.
Big but open and energetic – a nose of spice and roses. Wide, fresh, a depth – more of a suggestion of tannin – but deep, quite serious, but layered flavour. Excellent!

2017 Ladoix 1er Les Hautes Murottes
Probably the only producer of this.
Good colour. Modest, wc-inflected perfume. More structural, a tannin at the base, the first with a touch of grain, but then fresh, wide, very fine fruit – quite the panorama. Delicious and saline in the finish, lasting with a modest astringency.

2017 Pommard
A blend of two vines, Brescule close to Charmottes and Combottes near La Vache at the top of the village – both ‘on high.’ No wc here.
Ooh – directly deep, alive, pure dark fruit – yes! Big in the mouth, modest tannin – more a small astringency, The volume holds well all the way into the finish. Not a Pommard ‘boom-boom’ but of considered length and deliciousness…

Next the first wine not bottled:

2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Murots
A commando-raid to do a green harvest in 2017.
A very fine, elegant nose – floral-inflected fruit. Hmm, extra sweetness of fruit, a touch of tannin here – a limestone style of structure, coffee-inflected flavours again. Super long this is excellent

2017 Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs
90-year-old vines. A much later malo than many – as in 2016.
An even finer nose of modesty but hyper-pure. Lots of volume, much more mineral than fruited – but intense – of depth – there’s concentration here. Tannic but vibrantly finishing too…

2017 Nuits St.Georges 1er Aux Chainiots
Ooh – such a great nose – not far from Nuits Boudots – a Vosne spice here with wide freshness and such an impressive invitation. Wide – growing volume, structural but not overt, fresh, layered, elegant but with core. This is really a very fine thing – excellent!

2017 Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Pruliers
This still in barrel. First vintage, like the last.
Here the nose shows the barrel more than the wine – barrel spiced. More depth of flavour, super freshness and very fine energy, the depth of fruit flavour is more overt here. Delicious though spicy-oaked – which you know I prefer to vanilla!

2017 Beaune 1er Grèves
‘From high. This bottled. It’s a wine that I just can’t domesticate!’
Here is a big nose – muscled yet floral – it’s still an invitation. Ooh – more sophisticated texture. More volume. The concentration and structure is more like Corton than Beaune. Long, long…. Great but be patient!
2017 Vosne-Romanée Les Jacquines
Close to Clos des Réas, south of appellation – ‘Have tried wc and never been happy so this is all destemmed.’
Ooh – this is just such an attractive nose – faintly spiced and such pure dark fruit. Wider, more energetic – more mouth-watering, a touch of tannin but such a beautiful texture. A wine ‘de-luxe’ beautifully long, gorgeously finishing – relatively rare are the great villages from Vosne this year, but here is one – bravo!

2017 Corton-Renardes
First vintage, already bottled.
A vibrant nose, so very different to the Vosne – I prefer the Vosne, this a more herbed freshness. Ooh – the flavour is similar but with a more overt whole-cluster component – much nicer in the mouth – but the usp here is the combination of concentration and beautiful texture. In the mouth I love, but aromatically, not today…

2017 Clos de Vougeot
‘All I can say is that it’s from a super origin!’
Ooh – that’s a great nose – of fresh volume, and beautiful pure fruit. Mouth-filling, layered. Fresh, plenty of structure. More layers, great finishing. Not a wine of great concentration but great and lasting flavour. Bravo!
2017 Mazis-Chambertin
Second vintage – this year I’m almost happy, despite the very late malo – it’s a shame it’s the last one…
A really concentrated nose and with such depth. Such volume. Such depth, such fine texture. Such greatness. It’s a shame that, today, I can’t justify the cost of this – a few years ago I’d have been buying in magnum. Bravo!
2016 Clos de la Roche
Same contract for 16 years. Also, like the Mazis a very late malo – September.
The signature violet aroma that this wine always shows, fine depth. Big, structural like the Clos de Vougeot, but more silken, more melting with flavour – more complete – hard for me to say as such a fan of Clos de Vougeot, but this is even better – at least today 😉 – a wow finish. Bravo!

Les Blancs:

2017 Bourgogne Aligoté Moutots
Origin from Chorey. It won’t be bottled until April.
A deep and vibrant nose – a fine invitation. Soft, but fresh, layered, long, a touch of reduction. Long…

2017 Marsannay Blanc
South of Marsannay in Couchey
Ooh – that’s vibrant, so attractive a nose. A touch soft again but layered, floral, delicious flavoured. Long too. It’s actually not my favoured style of chardonnay as it seems muscaté but it’s really a delicious and long thing…

2017 Santenay 1er Passetemps
Never expect minerality or tension here, it’s the Meursault Charmes of Santenay! A lot of clay leads to richness here.
Hmm, that’s such a fine and vibrant nose. Wide, with tension, with melting, fine flavour – ooh now that’s such a fine thing – a little touch of pineapple. Really a personality – lovely and excellent!

2017 Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Terres Blanches
Hmm – that’s really a very fine and fresh nose – really a nose of class! Ooh, fresh nothing soft, beautiful shape, depth of flavour. This is a very fine 2017 – and I would never guess from Nuits – great!

2017 St.Aubin 1er En Remilly
Not the biggest nose, but one of complexity, faint reduction and very fine precision. A little soft again, reductive but such a great complexity and even great length.

2017 Beaune 1er Vignes-Franches Blanc
Only 25 hl/ha. Very old vines.
Ooh – this is fresh, direct, fine shaped, depth of flavour – structured wine, lots of depth, a small touch of barrel today. So long… This is great – a little phenolic touch to the texture in the finish – super.

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