Tasted in Chassagne-Montrachet with Sébastien Caillat, 22 November 2021.
Sébastien on 2021:
2021 was a decent half a harvest in the reds for the family domaine (Lamy-Pillot) but all my vines for whites are on the hillside – here I have between 0 and 10% of a normal harvest
Sébastien on 2020:
“I finished harvesting and it was still August – extraordinary – we were lucky to be an area – Santenay to Chassagne – that hardly suffered from the dryness. In fact, we were pleasantly surprised how much juice there was in the grapes because on the slopes there were places where the vines were clearly still suffering from the lack of water. At Lamy-Pillot we had vines in Beaune that needed picking very early as they were losing their leaves, but here we could be patient.”
One of the great domaines for 2019s and, I think, even better in 2020 – Bravo! I don’t remember ever giving a whole range of wines the thumbs up in this manner!
The last wines you should wait until they are 10-years-old before starting your journey with them, the others from 2 years onwards – though you are very lucky if you can select from the multiple cuvées as there is so little! The level of commercial requests can’t be satisfied by the small production here and it makes Sébastien unhappy that he struggles to keep up with all the requests for his wine, and when he can answer, it’s usually just an apologetic decline…
A certain discretion to this nose – round, a little pear fruit but with fine definition. Ooh – but that’s a beautiful almost incisive start and with such precision to the flavour. Really a lovely finish – the nose just needs to open a bit for and here is a great Bourgogne.
Planted in 2015 on a steep slope – cold at night, hot in the day. This the 3rd harvest from those vines.
Hmm, a faint aromatic padding that recalls the Bourgogne but here is a more open nose – a warm style of fruit like the last – pear but more complex. Gorgeous – mineral, texture of silk, very wide – a purity and fluidity of flavour – that’s great and wider almost steely finishing.
That’s a lovely nose – the most open – its arms flung open, wide, with floral top notes – really a great invitation. Wow. Here’s a of a gushing waterfall of flavour – juicy – it probably will benefit from calming a little but that’s another great bottle in preparation.
Here is the deepest soil with some of the most clay and least stones – a rich soil that gives a lot of vigour to the vines
The most perfumed yet – that’s a beauty – a boiled sweets sucrosity – boiled sweets in the flavour, mineral, but not too sweet. Great finishing line to this flavour – you guessed it – bravo!
‘In ‘Tonton Marcel’ close to Romanée the soils are all similar though Romanée and Grand Montagne are a little higher on the slope. The vines are about the same age in this as in the last but they are so different!’
A wider nose, finer, more of white flowers, maybe acacia. This is more direct and mouth-watering, supple, silky, mineral then finishing with a fine burst of flavour – just a little smaller, more compact, versus the Champsgains today but admirably pure and elegant.
Hmm – a larger and beautiful aroma that brilliantly blends the base minerality with fruit in the middle and floral tones at the top – yes! Ultra mineral, larger-scaled today than the Grand-Montagne, again beautifully textured. Less explosive but a completely engrossing finale – bravo!
From Champs Gain all the way to the top of the vines.
A stunning nose – airy and perfumed – never about bulk. Mouth-filling, perfectly balanced with mouth-watering acidity. A direct and mineral flavour – such clarity – steely as some others but less cool. Vibrating in the finish with a purely mineral note.