François Mikulski – 2020


François Mikulski, 2021Tasted in Meursault with François Mikulski, 24 November 2021.

François Mikulski Earl
7 Route Nationale 74
21190 Meursault
Tel: +33 3 80 21 25 11
More reports with Domaine François Mikulski

I missed François last year as he wasn’t receiving guests during the covid-lockdown. This year was my first tasting in his new cuverie buildings across from the Restaurant Gouttes d’Or.

François on 2021:
We did okay in some sectors, not so good in others. None of our hillside crus achieved 10 hl/ha but our Meursault-Charmes was actually okay. Our definitive pruning was very late so that helped us to save a little crop. 2016 was much worse – we had no wine.

François on 2020:
It was, globally, not bad. We were about 30% below the authorised maximum yield for reds and about 15% down for the whites.

The wines…

Given their place in elevage, this is a very strong result from François – I expect many to overachieve versus my assessments once ‘finished.’

2020 Bourgogne Rouge Côte d’Or
Round and attractive – a fruity aromatic invitation. But there’s proper structure here too, dark-fruited, mouth-watering and energetic. Give this 18 months before attacking but this is excellent.

2020 Monthelie Les Toisières
A new cuvée since 2018. Some of the domaine’s Monthelie has been pulled up and will be replanted with white – but they are keeping this.
A finer nose – I love the purity of this. More direct, structural too but with more line and a bit more sophistication to the texture – that’s lovely.

2020 Volnay
From Les Poisots behind the restaurant Auberge les Vignes – there’s none of this in 21
A width of aroma, fine, mineral, pretty red fruits. More intense, quite acid forward. But beautiful red fruits as the acidity fades. A vibrant and lovely finish.

2020 Pommard
This is quite an airy and floral nose. Wide, also intense but a fine vibration of flavour energy here. Lovely finishing with some florals again. Delicious.

2018 Volnay 1er Santenots du Milieu
This nose has a fine clarity of dark berry fruit. Super texture to this direct and juicy wine. Lovely and fine, still direct finishing. Excellent…

2020 Meursault 1er Caillerets
There’s not much more than 100 litres of this – François will probably just bottle in magnums and not sell. It’s also about to be replanted – but still with pinot.
That’s a big and round nose of plush dark fruit. Great texture, more width than the Santenots – sweeping flavours and ultra-fine tannin. Super!

2020 Pommard 1er Rugiens
A Contract.
A higher-toned width with floral complexity, this is very attractive. A touch of barrel flavour but mouth-filling, fine-textured and open with fine clarity. Let the wood fade – maybe a year or two but this is an excellent Rugiens…

Les blancs…
All the whites will be fined in the next days – François says that he’s done the tests and that it takes the wines to another level – that would make many more of these bravo wines:

2020 Bourgogne Aligote
1929 vines, just other side of RN from Grand Clous Perrons
That’s very nice – a citrus accent to this fresh width of aroma – almost steely aroma. That’s round and fine in the mouth – a little floral even. This will be excellent!

2020 Bourgogne Chardonnay Côte d’Or
4 parcels around Meursault – both sides of the village
A smaller but pretty nose. Wide, mineral and fresh – but here it’s the finish that’s outstanding today – gorgeous, complex, pure and moreish. Bravo!

There’s St.Aubin but still a bit of sugar is remaining, so not tasted.

2020 Meursault
Mainly Pellans but 3-4 other small parcels too.
Hmm, that’s super – wide, faintly spiced. More mouth-filling, easing over the palate, a faint tannin at the base. The finish is lovely again – that’s a lovely villages…

2020 Meursault Tillets
The youngest vines, the highest vines, just under the wood.
Here is a bit more floral style – already I’m impressed. Wide, mineral, lots of citrus but also a nice ginger-spice too. Fine hillside Meursault.

2020 Meursault Pré la Manche
A new cuvée near the camping, actually a clos
A more vibrant nose, of riper citrus almost a sweeter lime impression. More supple, more exotic fruit, layered, concentrated but with a fine mouthwatering style and clarity. My style preference is the Tillets but this has similar quality.

2020 Meursault Meix Chavaux
20% of this is in the village, 27-years-old average for the vines
Lovely width of aroma – clean, attractive – a great invitation. Mouth-filling, an open volume of flavour, salivating, mineral. Another wine that’s great finishing. Very good.

2020 Meursault Le Limozin
Under Genevrières near Charmes
That’s a fuller nose – yellow citrus freshness – subtly spiced too. I like the shape of this – structural but not hard – open flavours. Wide as you head towards the finish with a lovely texture. Great finishing with some additional floral character – excellent wine!

2020 Meursault 1er Les Poruzots
That’s a super nose, deep, mineral, many dimensions of flavour. Structural, not hard, melting with great flavour. For keeping a while but great finishing like all these. More than excellent Poruzots!

2020 Meursault 1er Aux Charmes
Vines planted in 1930 and 1998 the different parcels, one bottom, the other in the middle of Charmes.
Density of aroma here, deep but really attractive – super. Mouth-filling, great attack, wide, saline. A simply delicious wine – large-scaled and impressive – also excellent Charmes.

2020 Meursault 1er Goutte d’Or
Super nose – more floral – a beauty. Full, vibrant, mineral and fine citrus – indeed vibrating in the finish. A super wine – really great…

2020 Meursault 1er Genevrières
That’s a great nose – very perfumed – great wine. Wide and mouth-filling vs the depth of the Gouttes d’Or. An extra last direct finishing flavour too. Super wine again…

2020 Meursault 1er Aux Charmes 1913
This has a nose that is only liberated by working the glass – but what a nose! Supple, with richness of flavour, concentration too – but all with a bubbling, mouth-watering base of energy and minerality. Definitely for keeping – you will need the time for this to open out – the finish is already bravo – if you wait I expect the rest of the wine will be of the same level.

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