de Montille – 2020


Tommay at Domaine de Montille 2021Tasted in Meursault with Tommy, whilst Brian Seive was preparing for the Paulée de Meursault, 22 November 2021.

Domaine de Montille
rue de But
21190 Puligny-Montrachet
Tel: +33 3 80 21 39 14
More reports for Domaine de Montille.

Tommy has been here for 5 years and is the assistant to Brian Seive – who was indisposed – ie preparing for the Paulée de Meursault! Hopefully, Brian didn’t come back sick!

Tommy on 2021:
The bourgognes were okay but the hillsides were very badly affected by the frost – we were just thankful to have the volume that we did…

Tommy on 2020:
In 2020 the volumes were ‘correct’ – certainly down when compared to 2017 and 2018 but similar to 2019 – a little down but not too much. Actually, we’d expected a big red year but there was dehydration of the grapes in the Côte de Beaune – much less-so in Vosne – but essentially that was the reason for any losses.

The wines…

The shortest tasting here for many years. The reds showed well but some were clearly a bit too young for tasting. The same for the whites – here (and a couple of other domaines) had wines that need plenty more elevage.

DIAM for all the whites here, NdTec for the reds. Started DIAM with a first cuvée in 2005, their Chateau de Puligny Rosé. Including the wines of Maison de Montille, the split of red to white is normally about 1:1 here but in 2020 there’s much more white. The bottling of these reds will start in January, then maybe the Volnays in March. It will mainly be a March bottling for whites… :

2020 Beaune 1er Sizies
A silky, easy, but pretty red nose. That’s a lovely open wine over the palate, quite juicy – delicious already!

2020 Beaune 1er Grèves
Aromatically, quite silky and fresh, here with just a hint of reduction. More direct and structural wine, open, slightly darker fruit. A decent width of finishing intensity – nice clean and pure flavour. That’s lovely…

2020 Volnay 1er Mitans
A broad and comforting nose, with slightly jammy but attractive fruit – you won’t note the 100% whole-cluster today. The whole-cluster is clear in the flavour, high toned, approaching but not quite delivering a little pyrazine.

2020 Volnay 1er Taillepieds
65 and 45-year-old vine, parcels
A smaller but still wide nose – the impression of faint spice and silky texture. Structural but open, mouth-watering and saline flavoured. The whole-clusters are centre-stage today but that has engaging energy and an almost fluid delivery of flavour. It will be excellent – as a minimum – but be patient…

2020 Pommard 1er Les Rugiens-Bas
1.02 hectares. Much more iron in the soil. A little older vines than Pezerolles, 50-years-old. Chunks of limestone here and a little chlorosis in the vines.
A darker fruit, nicely full but not overly rich. Vibrant – so fresh, so juicy – structural with a modest depth of tannin but with no grain. Fine, clean and mouth-watering finishing. This could be a great wine!

2020 Corton Clos du Roi
0.84 hectares of vines.​ Older vines – almost 85-year-old vines – with a high proportion of wc used.
Some more herb here, the whole-cluster more evident too. More density and quite cool fruited but here is a very lovely line of finishing flavour – rather elegant but lacking for nothing – that’s super.

2020 Vosne-Romanée 1er Malconsorts
This from top and bottom sections that are blended – one is horse worked – like the Christiane section.
A much more vertical nose – high tones – quite a lot of clusters showing – but quite deep too. This not all whole-cluster but the Christiane is this year. Swirling brings a much more attractive clarity of aroma. This is a little structural today but I have to say that the flavours are really beautiful and nicely complex.

2020 Vosne-Romanée 1er Malconsorts Cuvée Christianne
What this parcel doesn’t have, is the upper part of Malconsorts that is all on limestone – there’s more clay and silt here. 2016 was the first year where the vinification of the domaine’s two Malconsorts was not identical. Half a hectare, all whole-cluster for the fermentation.
Deeper coloured – a deeper and darker nose too. Here is a very different structure – more a wine of clay than the last which was airier and more direct – yet here is real class – a wine for keeping to allow it to properly open up…

Les Blancs – Domaine wines:

2020 Domaine Beaune 1er Aigrots
0.4 ha towards the bottom of the parcels
Airy, a little bit of rigour to this nose. In the mouth, this is reasonably attractive – a mineral side but also a mouth-watering aspect with sucrosity. It clearly needs more elevage today…

2020 Domaine Meursault St.Christophe
A cuvée name. 3 different: Narvaux, Castets and Petit Charrons.
A width of aroma, easier and more approachable than the Beaune, even with a hint of florals that are developing. Silkier, wider, much more sophisticated and elegant today. Lovely finishing – that’s very good!

2020 Domaine Meursault 1er Perrières
Ooh! That’s an impressive nose – vibrant and pure – a beauty. Perhaps a hint subdued, but beautiful clarity and fluidity, gorgeously flavoured – great wine – maybe only excellent Perrières but if it grows a little more in the last part of elevage, no question, great…

2020 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Folatières
A faintly reductive nose, not the same clarity of aroma as the Perrières today. A little cushioned, the first palate lacking a little cut but slowly the flavour becomes more brilliantly open – so also needs a bit more elevage.

2020 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Caillerets
Fuller, a little oak cream on the nose. Full in the mouth too but here is an extra definition and sucrosity of flavour. Holding very well. Again a wine that’s not singing today but showing a disparate range of beautiful detail – just another where more elevage is required.

2020 Domaine Corton-Charlemagne
South-facing almost in the village of Aloxe – old vines that miss a little afternoon sun.
A narrow nose but with depth and a fine mineral impression – there’s definitely something that’s got my attention here. Beautiful over the palate, properly open, very silky, mineral but no hard edges. Gorgeous in the middle and finish – this is showing really well – a potentially great wine.

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