Tasted in Morey with Florian Remy, 16 November 2015.
Domaine Chantal Remy
1, place du Monument
21220 Morey-Saint-Denis
Tel: +33 (0)3 80 34 32 59
www.domaine-chantal-remy.com
Since the last time I visited, there has been a little more planting in the ‘garden’ – mainly this year – to extend their (currently) villages Morey St.Denis, Clos de Rosiers. These tiny plants are, today, planted at a density much higher than 10k per hectare, augmenting those already planted in 2000. These vines sit next to the wall of the property – and directly on the other side of the wall is the small (maybe a singles tennis court) of Taupenot-Merme’s Clos des Lambrays.
There are a couple of new labels here too, from bought fruit, to augment the domaines volume a little.
Florian on 2015:
“We started on the 10th September, before all the big rain. Super quality, though sadly lacking in juice – some parcels lost as much as 50% but others only 10% – it was highly variable. It would have been nice to have a little rain in July, this might have opened out the aromas a little more, but throughout the appellations we have a very nice acidity and concentrated aromas.”
Florian on 2014:
“We started the 19th September, and this year provided a normal volume harvest across the range of appellations. Bright wines with rapid malos, I think the vintage is quite classic with good differentiation between the various levels of the AOC hierarchy.”
The wines…
Quite classic 2014 style here, with waves of flavour from the more important wines. There is a hint more texture from the tannins here, but that said, mainly from the wines of Gevrey, which also fits with the ‘Roi Chambertin’ tasting. The Latricières was a particular honey today. Overall I find a very good level in the cellar, none of the wines seeming at all slight.
2014 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvres
From below Charmes-Chambertin but next to Morey. 30 year-old vines.
Bright, overt, inviting medium red fruit – very cherry inflected. Large in the mouth, a growing tannin, but modestly grained, direct flavour that lasts well, a little minerality too. Tasty wine!
2014 Morey St.Denis 1er Clos des Ormes
Purchased grapes, from 40 year-old vines.
Higher toned, quite perfumed, red. Bigger in the mouth, much wider too. Here’s a hint of muscle but really good flavour, intensity too. Almost a wine to chew on, but there’s no overt texture from the tannin. Almost a coffee impression in the finishing flavour. Fine.
Lovely depth and width of aroma here. Pretty, complex, perhaps tobacco notes too. Extra weight, a hint of fat, lovely, lovely complexity and a hint of salinity. For such young vines, this is excellent. Super width and weight of finishing flavour. They shouldn’t have to wait to long to get this promoted to 1er Cru!
Big open floral, bright and complex – super. More direct, lithe and energetic. The perfume of the nose is in the mouth too, dense, intense flavour with a fine mineral clarity – excellent. Super finish too….
The main part of this vineyard has 70 year-old vines, though every two years a little is replanted.
Super floral, with a beautiful inviting freshness over a weight of ripe red fruit. Wonderfully fresh in the mouth – alive – growing waves of flavour, simply beautiful.
2014 Chambertin
From a parcel next to Trapet and Leroy. 80 year-old vine.
Bright high tones, over a deeper ripe base. Super weight of round, mouth-filling flavour. There’s a fine grain of tannin at the base, but this wine today is about ‘large’ – until you swallow that is, and then like a shooting star it suddenly widens and displays complexity. This will really reward the moderately patient! Super wine.