Why Big Red Diary?

Henri Gouges – 2013

DSC05645Tasted in Nuits with Gregory Gouges, 3rd December, 2014.

Domaine Henri Gouges
7 Rue du Moulin
21700 Nuits St.Georges
Tel: +33 3 80 61 04 40

Gregory on 2013:
“2013 was a difficult vintage – not only for the workers, but the vines too – cold and humid. We began our harvest on the 5th October and triage was very important – frankly, prices have increased so much in the last decade, that we can’t afford to make any mistakes – we threw away 15-20% of the grapes that arrived at the domaine. We have a big harvest team and try to bring our whole 15 hectares in, in less than 5 days – usually that means 70-80 pickers.

“Our work in the vines is exactly the same in every vineyard – only the order of tasting the wines is different. It is a vintage of freshness and our malos were not heterogeneous, but we let nature take its course. The villages was racked in December for bottling in April or so…”

The wines…

2013 Nuits St.Georges
Still a little malo aroma here. Wide and slightly padded in the mouth – very fine fruit. There’s plenty of acid intensity, indeed it’s really intense from the mid-palate into the finish. Almost the flavour of limestone – this is a little square at the moment but very, very impressive all the same!

2013 Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Chaignots
A relatively tight nose but wider and deeper than the villages – with darker fruit too. There’s more energy here and fine, fresh intensity – it’s like the corners of the villages wine have all been smoothed – this is very super!

2013 Nuits St. Georges 1er Clos des Porrets St.Georges
3.6 hectare monopole – maybe ‘Porrets’ was field of pears…(?)
A deep though faintly reduced nose. Direct, gorgeous fruit. The tannin is really only in the background. More direct than the Chaignots and a little harder in the finish – yet a beauty for its fresh fruit and vibrancy.

2013 Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Pruliers
A nose that’s faintly spiced but also a hint reduced. This is a more muscular wine and no fat either – but complexity and minerality abounds. A wine that will benefit from a little more cellar time – despite how good it is!

2013 Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Vaucrains
Only 18 hl/ha in 2013…
A little tight but fine and complex aromas with no reduction. There’s an obvious extra concentration and a little more depth and texture too – a ripe slightly grainy texture from the tannin. There’s even a perfume to the mid-palate flavour. Very excellent!

2013 Nuits St.Georges 1er Les St.Georges
Some faint malo on the nose – otherwise it’s tight. Dynamic and intense, lithe and with less fat but just as much concentration as the Vaucrains. Almost a little chalky in the finish. I still don’t think of LSG as GC – just GW – great wine!

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?