Tasted in Volnay with Guillaume d’Angerville, 05 November, 2014.
Domaine Marquis d’Angerville
Rue de Mont
Tel: +33 3 80 21 61 75+33 3 80 21 61 75
Of almost 115 hectares of Volnay 1er Cru, this domaine now accounts for 12.5 hectares of premiers.
Guillaume on 2013:
Guillaume is always in good, though this year more thoughtful form, but his message re yields is far from positive: “From a yields perspective we have basically had 5 bad vintages in a row; don’t forget that we also had low yields in 2010 and 2011. The domaine produced about 15 hl/ha in 2013, though at least that was higher than the 9 hl/ha (exactly a quarter of a normal volume) that we experienced in 2012. 2013 is actually the latest harvest at the domaine since 1984, we started on the 5th of October.
“I don’t want to make wines that are like statues, to be looked at, I want, and hope that these are wines to be drunk…”
These wines are still in barrel. There were some longer malos here so ‘no rush’ bottling will probably commence in March 2015.
From Grands Champs – near Mitans.
Super, deep colour. A fresh, faintly floral, cushioned nose. Good basic structure here with beautiful clean lines – fresh fruit through the centre of the wine. Long and invigorating.
2013 Volnay 1er Cru
An assemblage of 0.38 ha of Pitures and 0.64 ha of l’Ormeau, which is now (usually) called Mitans.
Also deep colour. A fresh and faintly herbed nose over a tighter core of fruit. Wider and a little spiced vs the villages. Again clean fruit, this time with a nice base of ripe tannin. Meatier wine but very good. The last drops in glass offering a floral note.
Deeper, darker fruit – crunchy fruit. In the mouth this is wide, intense and delicious – long with super energy too – I love this!
2013 Volnay 1er Clos des Angles
A cuvée here since 2009.
A deeper nose, abetted by faint reduction – otherwise not so communicative. More structured than the Pommard but beautiful liquid fruit rolls over the tongue – fine clarity and long finishing too.
“More slope here than Clos des Angles – more minerality.” 35 year-old vines.
Again lots of colour. Smooth a silk aromas, though quite discrete today. Maybe even more tannin here than Les Angles, but they are finer and coupled with super-direct fruit and a long mineral flavour with fine energy. Really super wine.
2013 Volnay 1er Caillerets
From the top of the vineyard. Acquired a small parcel 2 years ago so now have 0.65 ha.
The nose is a little cushioned and really wide – showing flashes of something reductive. Mouth-filling. The tannic structure is well covered and supports transparent, high-toned fruit with lovely energy. Long and delicious…
2013 Volnay 1er Champans
The domaine’s largest single holding – 4 hectares.
An airy, fine nose, but no lack of depth either. Wide and mineral with just a little tannic grab. Beautiful, transparent, delicious fruit. The finish is long but more focused on texture than flavour. Super quality.
2013 Volnay 1er Clos des Ducs
Elegant and slightly floral nose. More opulence on the palate, more full, equally a little more tannin – though perhaps finer textured tannin. Long, long, leaching, lingering finish with a faint hint of salt.
2013 Meursault 1er Santenots
Wide, very aromatic and with some impact – though not obviously a Meursault aromatic at the start – but it’s certainly inviting. There is more obvious Meursault character in the flavours with a little phenolic texture too. Lovely energy. Slowly the aromatic settles, becoming more confident, and more a product of the appellation…