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2013 Roi Chambertin

logo-roi-chambertinTasted in Gevrey-Chambertin, 13th November, 2014.

Once more, ‘Bravo!’ to the Syndicat of Gevrey-Chambertin for this tasting. The format was the same as last year for the 12s, except that there was one extra hour available for tasting – I used all-but 15 minutes of that extra hour despite starting on the dot at 15h00.

Judging by the crowd, it now seems that I’m the only taster to be present at all four of the Syndicat’s tastings that began (in Beaune) with the 2010s. Oh, and I still don’t understand people who head straight to the tables with the grand crus…

What of the wines?
If I compare to 2012, the 2012s often had an extra twist of deliciousness and a bit a bit more structure. That said, the 2013s are really not far behind in tastiness and seemed much more consistent than the 12s, despite having less elevage time due to the harvest being three weeks later – plus the complications of later malolactics. So less ‘poor samples’ at the 2013 tasting, and as always, nice to have a wide selection of wines to compare and contrast in one sitting – even if realistically, you have limited opportunity to ‘go back’ if you strive to taste everything…

Part 1 – 38 villages wines…

I began at speed, planning to make summary notes, but slowly realised the notes were beginning to sound all the same, so slowly expanded my scribbling, but still there seems a generic note – but maybe that fits well for a specific vintage…

2013 Arlaud, Gevrey-Chambertin
Pretty high tones. Intense with forward acidity but padded, fine intensity of fruit.
2013 Denis Berthaut, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chézeaux
Narrow but fruity nose. Again, fine and fresh in the mouth with super intensity and an added floral component to. Lovely.
2013 René Bouvier, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Jeunes Rois
A high-toned and quite overtly floral nose. Fresh with fine intensity and fine mid-palate and finishing flavour, here with a twist of oak in the finish.

2013 Bouchard Père et Fils, Gevrey-Chambertin
Fine fruit and good aromatic depth. Wide and slightly padded with very good depth of fresh finishing flavour. Yum!

2013 Jean-Luc et Eric Burguet, Gevrey-Chambertin Symphonie
Good depth of aroma and a little faint herb. Silky, but a little herby in the mid-palate. Tasty but rather non-standard Gevrey – good finish though.

2013 Philippe Charlopin, Gevrey-Chambertin cuvée Vieilles-Vignes
Some reduction and heaviness. Lithe and intense, indeed entertaining if oaky. Precise finish though.

2013 Jean-Luc et Eric Burguet, Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Favourites Vieilles-Vignes
Some pretty high tones. A little herbal flavour and faintly astringent tannin too. Saved by very good mid-palate intensity…

2013 Chevalier, Gevrey-Chambertin
Reductive and a little oaky. Too much oak on the palate today – the structure sucks out all the succulence. Finish is quite tasty though.

2013 Drouhin-Laroze, Gevrey-Chambertin
High toned, interesting and pretty. Penetrating acidity but with good fruit to balance. Tasty!

2013 Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
Padded and almost truffled – but no reduction. Concentrated in the mouth and with super flavour – lots of material here and a faint tannin. Super – the best that this wine has showed at any of the Syndicat tastings.

2013 Jerome Galeyrand, Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice
High-toned though seemingly a little muddled aromatic today. Beautiful in the mouth – half fruit and half flowers. Very pretty and one to watch!

2013 Jerome Galeyrand, Gevrey-Chambertin Billards
A discreet, fine and inviting nose. Lithe, linear and more mineral. Grows in the mid-palate where there’s structure too – very lovely!

2013 Jerome Galeyrand, Gevrey-Chambertin En Croisette
Here’s a wide and interesting nose. Again linear but finer and smoother with fine intensity and a mineral finish. Super, but less delicious than the Billards.

2013 Pierre Gelin, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos de Meixvielle
A fine nose that’s round and ripe in the middle. Super energy and intensity here. Super-yum!

2013 JM Guillon, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
Concentrated, high-toned fruit on the nose, just a suggestion of reduction too. Intense and structured with fine high-toned fruit.

2013 Harmand-Geoffroy, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
A discreet but high-toned and pretty nose. Plenty of mouth-watering flavour – Yum!

2013 Heresztyn-Mazzini, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
A discreet, rather tight nose. Full, with plenty of tannin with a faint saline edge. Long but less delicious today.

2013 Lucien Jacob, Gevrey-Chambertin
Paler than many. Round and with a little velvet to the tannin and some herby flavour. Only a good finish saves it from being ‘average.’

2013 Pierre Labet, Gevrey-Chambertin
Flowers and sweet stems. Round and concentrated with some tannin texture – fine tannin despite the whole cluster. A lovely and sweetly lingering finish.

2013 René Leclerc, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
High tones, flowers and a bit of sulfite too. Sweetness of fresh fruit and plenty of width – it will be good though, assuming the sulfitic nose rights itself.

2013 Henri Magnien, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
Quite a deep nose. Good structure but some way ahead of the flavour today.

2013 Tilleuils – Philippe Livera, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Village
Nice faint stems and lots of aromatic depth. Round and soft but also intense and concentrated. Plenty of oak today softening things up, but in time this will be super…

2013 Tilleuils – Philippe Livera, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles
Fresher and higher tones nose. Wide with plenty of energy and good fruit. Yum!

2013 Thierry Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin
A discreet nose. Fresh in the mouth but with reduction too.

2013 Thierry Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin Vigne Belle
A fuller and fruitier nose but reduced. Wide and fresh in the mouth but quite astringent – Luckily, at least the finish is tasty.

2013 Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin
Fine and deep. Fresh fruit with good intensity, width and fine complexity. Fine fruit here – yum!

2013 Pierre Naigeon, Gevrey-Chambertin En Sylvie
A fresh but tight nose. Round, full and with lovely acidity – fine!

2013 Pierre Naigeon, Gevrey-Chambertin En Vosne
Deeper aromas with some whole cluster and maybe a little sulfur too. Round, with a little more texture and still with sweetness of fruit. Less finishing energy, yet good. A faint salt and a super length.

2013 Philippe Nadeff, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
A deep but reduced nose. Full, plenty of impact plus good acidity and intensity – but again reduced. – Good length though.

2013 Odoul-Cocquard, Gevrey-Chambertin
Fine, wide and ripe but fresh aromas. Plenty of width and energy but full and round too. Long with a bitter-chocolate finish.

2013 Henri Richard, Gevrey-Chambertin Au Corvées
Round and sweet nose with good depth. Round and full with some whole cluster flavour and plenty of energy. Good!

2013 Philippe Rossignol, Gevrey-Chambertin
The aromas are no so wide, but they’re pretty deep and there are lovely high tones. Super energy and intensity with very good complexity. Super!

2013 Marc Roy, Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Alexandrine
Lactic nose. Full, round and concentrated with growing, mouth-watering intensity and very good fruit. Tasty but the nose needs fixing.

2013 Marc Roy, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur
A faint reduction to the nose. Round and mouth-watering complexity and plenty of ripe structure. Lovely mouth-watering flavour – really yum!
2013 Marc Roy, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
A beautiful, deep, padded nose. Also beautifully packaged, mouth-watering, tasty fruit – a beauty!
2013 Taupenot-Merme, Gevrey-Chambertin
Very pretty sweet fruit aroma. Faint gas on the tongue but still mouth-filling with lots of dimensions of flavour. Very, very good!

2013 François Trapet, Gevrey-Chambertin Champs Chenys
The nose while bright seems off-colour. Super concentration and intensity though – unfortunately the flavour rather reflects the nose.

2013 Trapet Gevrey-Chambertin
Deep, deep nose but a little reduced. Plenty of structure but some reductive flavours too. Not a great sample compared to visiting the domaine.

Part 2 – 37 Premier Cru wines…

Fewer recommended wines in this section, versus the ‘Villages’ – not because of a lack of quality – rather a more uniform performance – so fewer ‘stand-outs’!

2013 Arlaud, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Aux Combottes
A wide, silky and pretty nose. Extra sweetness here versus the villages wines – concentration too. The super mid-palate hints at whole clusters and there’s along, faintly saline finish. Yum!

2013 Denis Berthaut, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Lavaux St.Jacques
A modest but prettily high-toned nose. Full, concentrated with energy and complexity. Really super!
2013 René Bouvier, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Fontenys
A narrow nose but one with a fine floral top-note. Lovely width and dimension with sweet acidity too. This is very, very good – there’s plenty of oak but it remains tasty and has a great finish
2013 Bruno Clair, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cazetiers
A lovely, deep nose with plenty of freshness. Fuller and super-concentrated with lots of flavour dimension. This is seriously good!

2013 Bruno Clair, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
A wider nose, less impact though. This seems a little spikier though with no lack of complexity – indeed its a super mid-palate but today, the Cazetiers shows better.

2013 Château de Marsannay, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Champeaux
Fresh and high-toned aromas – very good despite a suggestion of reduction. A little gas on the tongue – or too much tannin grain – probably a bit of both! Good flavour dimension over dark oak (or reduction!)

2013 Drouhin-Laroze, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Lavaux St.Jacques
A deep and quite impressive nose despite a little reduction. Good sweetness, lithe, slightly hard but with lots of dimension and energy. Good wine!

2013 Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
Deep and quite complex but quite unformed. I’m bathing in fine, ripe tannin here – though there’s lots of flavour too – perhaps enough to balance! A little too embryonic today…

2013 Dominique Gallois, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Combe aux Moines
Faint sulfur. Lithe, beautiful bright fruit – intense too – this should turn out excellently but like the Esmonin too embryonic today.

2013 Pierre Gelin, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos Prieur
This has very fine fruit – yum! In the mouth it’s intense and direct but with a little padding too – both the nose and flavour remind of biting into a (big!) fresh raspberry.

2013 JM Guillon 1er Petite Chapelle
Very high-toned but with pretty, fresh fruit. Also in the mouth, but with considerable concentration below – there will definitely be less impressive grand crus!

2013 Harmand-Geoffroy, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Lavaux St.Jacques
Faint reduction but plenty of energy. Good complexity too. Good!

2013 Heresztyn-Mazzini, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Perrières
Fresh and deep with minimal width. Super concentration with lots of mid-palate impact. A wine that finishes much better than it starts.

2013 Heresztyn-Mazzini, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Champonnets
This shows very pretty fruit and of good width too – lovely. Some salt, lots of complexity, great balance and energy – super wine!

2013 Humbert Frères, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Estournelles St.Jacques
Faintly spicy with plenty of aromatic depth. Full and with lots of dimension – a little hard in the mid-palate but without loss of dimension. Lots of dark fruit – impressive.

2013 Humbert Frères, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Petite Chapelle
High-toned fresh fruit with an oaky tinge. Fine intensity and complexity – some whole cluster flavour. Long, complex and rather fine.

2013 Philippe Leclerc, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cazetiers
Reduced aromas. Fizzy – too much reduction and gas – move along quietly, there’s nothing to see here…

2013 Philippe Leclerc, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Champeaux
A little fresher and fruitier. Sweet fruit in the mouth, some salt and a depth of concentration – presents way better than Cazetiers today.

2013 Philippe Leclerc, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Combe aux Moines
Matchstick reduction. Also the palate – wait for another day…

2013 René Leclerc, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Champeaux
There’s some freshness, but the nose isn’t ready – same in the mouth – come back another day.

2013 René Leclerc, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Combe aux Moines
Tight. Better palate with some freshness and sweetness of fruit. Good intensity too.

2013 Henri Magnien, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cazetiers
Faintly volatile. Wide, good in the mouth with plenty of flavour dimension – possibly a little whole cluster(?) Good wine.

2013 Maume, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Lavaux St.Jacques
Lots of complexity – maybe from whole cluster. Sweetness of fruit and a more obvious whole cluster flavour. A little saline complexity in the finish too.

2013 Thierry Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos Prieur
A modest yet fresh and pretty nose with a clear raspberry tone. Lots of sweetness and intensity. Clearly one of Thierry’s better samples…

2013 Denis Mortet, Lavaux St.Jacques
Cushioned and layered, an almost whole cluster impression (does DM use WC?) Full and round yet also detailed – and very fine detail indeed. Not just intense, but super-tasty!

2013 Philippe Naddef, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Champeaux
Good depth and impact – despite some reduction. Lots of energy, complexity and flavour dimension. On the other hand, it’s a bit reductive and offers a far from smooth texture. Impressive if a bit rustic showing.

2013 Pierre Naigeon, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Lavaux St.Jacques
Pretty and detailed aromas – but no depth today. This fills the mouth well. Some whole cluster flavour and grainy tannin. Plenty of complexity. Pretty good wine…

2013 Odoul-Cocquard, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Aux Combottes
Ripe, wide and pretty aromas with a floral accent. Wow – here is not just complexity, but grand cru complexity – plenty of blocky tannin too but also a super finish. Wow!

2013 Philippe Rossignol, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Corbeaux
Fresh, herby high tones. A concentrated wine and with impact and a salty intensity too. The nose is nothing today, but the palate super.

2013 Serafin, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Fontenys
Really deep, though aided with an accent of reduction. Really, lots of concentration, lots of intensity too – there’s a dark oak note too, but that should fade. Very, very good!

2013 Taupenot-Merme, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Bel Air
High-toned, faintly reduced fruit. Wide and intense with lots of grabbing texture. This also has plenty of mid-palate dimension – very, very good!

2013 François Trapet, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Bel Air
A too volatile sample.

2013 François Trapet, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Petite Chapelle
Not volatile and very much prettier. Round in the mouth and with very good intensity too. In fact, this is super…

2013 Tortochot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Lavaux St.Jacques
A too reduced sample. Shame

2013 Tortochot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er En Champeaux
Similar. Double-shame.

2013 Varoilles, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos des Varoilles
Beautiful, if tight, ripe fruit on the nose. Full and concentrated, slightly salty and with layers of flavour. Simply excellent!
2013 Varoilles, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er La Romanée
Like the Varoilles, but with just a little more freshness. Lovely sweet fruit on the full, concentrated and mouth-watering palate. Just about everything that you could want!
And finally, 33 Grand Crus…

As there should be, there are many great wines here…

2013 Taupenot-Merme, Mazoyères-Chambertin
Quite high-toned fruit, maybe with a little ripe gooseberry. Lots of width and some mid-palate impact too. Concentrated and complex. A good grand cru.

2013 Maume, Mazoyères-Chambertin
A nose that almost seems fizzy – whole clusters too. Full, with lots of impact and certainly more structure than the last. Good complexity with some salinity too. Again, very good.

2013 Henri Ricard, Mazoyères-Chambertin
This is rather pretty, floral and sweet – maybe with some whole cluster(?) Lots of sweetness and really more concentrated than the last two wines. Whole cluster flavour (surely). Excellent
2013 Odoul-Cocquard, Charmes-Chambertin
Airy, pretty fruit notes. Intense and direct, with very good width too. This has plenty of structure but lots of length too. Very yum!

2013 René Bouvier, Charmes-Chambertin
A depth of sweet fruit aroma. Concentrated with plenty of density and plenty of flavour too. Very good!

2013 Philippe Charlopin, Charmes-Chambertin
a deep but bready nose. Big and round with fine tannin and really lots of concentration. This is also very good in its own slightly woody style.

2013 Humbert Frères, Charmes-Chambertin
Some high and inviting tones. More interesting mid-palate complexity and length versus the last wine.

2013 Henri Ricard, Charmes-Chambertin
A wide but discreet nose. Lots of structure but with fine penetrating flavours too. Long and very good.

2013 Henri Magnien, Ruchottes-Chambertin
This has a lovely floral top-note – a fine and inviting nose. Lovely, mouth-filling – ouf! – really one of the best wines yet as there’s just so much complexity and tasty flavour. Exceptional.

2013 Château de Marsannay, Ruchottes-Chambertin
Some high tones and maybe a hint of whole cluster. Wide but much less deep than the Magnien – yet, still plenty to interest the senses – good complexity too – but behind the Magnien for sure.

2013 Philippe Charlopin, Mazis-Chambertin
Plenty of heavy toast on the nose – I assume it’s not reduction! The palate is equally compromised…

2013 JM Guillon, Mazis-Chambertin
A mineral and quite high-toned nose – very interesting. Real intensity of flavour too. I have the impression of something a hint volatile, but maybe that’s just the fruit expression on this sample – I’ll give it the benefit of doubt. This could be really super.

2013 Maume, Mazis-Chambertin
A fresh and wide nose with some whole cluster notes. A little gas on the tongue. There’s some complexity and lots of width. Fine finishing too.

2013 Harmand-Goeffroy, Mazis-Chambertin
A fresh and pretty nose – if of rather modest proportion. Full, round and very silky – this is really super. Lots and lots of complexity here.

2013 Louis Remy, Latricières-Chambertin
Wide and high-toned nose but perhaps a little volatile too. The palate is also quite gassy – too early for showing…

2013 Drouhin-Laroze, Latricières-Chambertin
Wide and fresh – a lovely nose. Sweet, fresh, wide and intense – only a little reduction mars the flavours. This is potentially super!

2013 Rossignol-Trapet, Latricières-Chambertin
A high-toned, fresh and interesting aromatic. Very wide flavour panorama – if not so deep. Seemingly complex yet less obviously interesting today.

2013 Trapet, Latricières-Chambertin
Deep, fragrant and fresh – plus a not that I can’t work out if it’s oak or a little toasty reduction. Round and concentrated with super power and lots of flavour intensity. Very yum!

2013 Bouchard Père et Fils, Chapelle-Chambertin
Fresh but a slightly flawed nose for this sample. Plenty of gas too – a shame – concentrated and complex for all that…

2013 Pierre Damoy, Chapelle-Chambertin
A concentrated if still rather tight nose. Lots and lots of width plus a little grainy structure. Lots of complexity too including a few whole cluster references. This should end up excellent.

2013 Tilleuils – Livera, Chapelle-Chambertin
Deep, full and textured nose. Wow! Super-complex, salty, actually hard to drink given the intensity – potentially a giant – one day…
2013 Cécile Tremblay, Chapelle-Chambertin
A super-fruity nose despite an accent of reduction. Mineral and complex, salty, whole cluster complexity, just super wine.

2013 Rossignol-Trapet, Chapelle-Chambertin
A fresh, pretty, fine nose – lovely. This is very fine and shows lots of complexity. It just lacks the impact of the Livera and Tremblay – but still super.

2013 Bouchard Père, Clos de Bèze
Some freshness but also unformed bready notes. Lots of concentration and sweetness – width too. Wow – lots of wine here, but really it’s not quite ready for tasting…

2013 Bruno Clair, Clos de Bèze
A narrow nose but still high-toned and floral. Round, cleaner and with more flavour dimension than the BP&F. Really super!
2013 Pierre Damoy, Clos de Bèze
A beautiful nose of roses, whole clusters and perfect, ripe fruit. Super concentration and energy. This is dynamic and complex – also brilliant!
2013 Pierre Gelin, Clos de Bèze
A nose that’s high-toned and very pretty. A super experience on the tongue – full and complex with an ever-growing intensity – even in this company! Really excellent.

2013 Château de Marsannay, Chambertin
Airy and complex aromatics – quite a beautiful thing. Sweet, concentrated and showing lots of flavour dimension. Super!

2013 Pierre Damoy, Chambertin
Quite an unformed nose. Full and round in the mouth – clearly much more impressive than the nose. A very big wine. Let’s see…

2013 Tortochot, Chambertin
A deep nose but partly because of the reduction. Very good sweetness, concentration and very pretty fruit too – but overall a little to reduced as it’s in the flavours too.

2013 Louis Remy, Chambertin
A very beautiful aromatic of fruit, high-toned and fresh. – just super! Full, round and also faintly reduced – but super complex and super-fine.

2013 Trapet, Chambertin
Shame! The nose is a little reduced. But in the mouth this is mineral, fresh and complex – and quite the most dynamic thing on the table – wow!

2013 Rossignol-Trapet, Chambertin
A discreet but fresh nose. Full and intense with a growing complexity over the tongue. Very, very good.

2 responses to “2013 Roi Chambertin”

  1. arnar@berg84.com

    What wine ? 2013 Pierre Damoy
    Quite an unformed nose. Full and round in the mouth – clearly much more impressive than the nose. A very big wine. Let’s see…

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