Tasted in Meursault with Patrick Essa, 09 October 2019.
Domaine Buisson-Charles
3 Rue de la Velle
21190 Meursault
Tel: +33 3 80 21 22 32
www.buisson-charles.com
Patrick on 2019:
“I loved those grapes, the balance was fantastic – it’s just that we had quite a low yield. ”
Patrick on 2018:
“Flowering was same time in 2018 as in 2017 it was just ripening that was different. We had more regular rain in 2017 so for us 2017 was ready sooner. I think that 2018 is a very good vintage. Of course, there was more wine, but with 13° natural and good low pH. All my whites ended up at 3.22-3.25 which is very satisfying. The wine is not really in the profile of a hot vintage. Of course, we have adapted our work in recent years, lots of small things in the vines, not just in the cuverie. I’d rather have warm years, I’ve lots of old vines so I don’t tend to see water stress. The fruit was very clean, I haven’t seen botrytis since 2010. I also think that the hail protection looks to be working okay, though frost is currently having its say, but I also want my wines to reflect the vintage, I don’t want to be correcting or picking based just on ripeness and acidity.“
The wines…
Patrick talked confidently about his wines – and no surprise, this one of the best white wine cellars on my tour – the reds were good too!
About 20% of Buisson-Charles volume today is from purchases, but we will look at the domaine wines – Another domaine where almost no sulfur used to this stage of the elevage:
2018 Bourgogne Aligoté
Usually the only wine with a little reduction and it’s here but only because its all tank elevage.
Concentrated but with fine pure fruit, very modestly reductive but it will be gone when bottled says Patrick. Bright, wide, almost effervescent in energy – crunchy finishing with a little salinity. Bright, tasty aligoté
From Puligny Les Combes and Meursault Grand Couture – Started harvesting in 2018 05 September, this picked 12-13 September. Only from vines in the commune of Meursault. All barrel elevage but none new. 45 hl/ha
A little more colour. Not a big nose but a silky nose. Big, intense, full-flavoured, layered, slightly saline finishing – ooh – great Bourgogne.
40-100 years-old with some replacements.
Ooh – that’s a big, impressive, really inviting nose. Hmm, wide, layered, ooh that’s really quite something – ripe, and concentrated. Holding so long – bravo.
Some vines in Pellans here are from 1945. No new oak, but not too old barrels. Only some SO2 after racking.
Ooh, vibrant, mineral. Ooh (again), intense, layered, vibrant here too. What a wine!
20% new oak as all the wines that will follow.
A beautiful nose, slightly more cushioned, pretty yellow fruit. More mouth-filling volume, layered but with beaitiful acidity – wonderful Tessons!
Vines planted at 13k per hectare – despite being old vines – just 0.25 ha. ‘These are old pants that mature quickly, and with less acidity than many, so always the first harvested, but still 13° with pH 3.25
Back to the more vibrant, more overtly mineral aroma. Fuller with a little more concentration behind. Super width and matching acidity. I love this wine in most vintages, particularly in 2018!
Depth and density of proper Meursault aroma – less width than the Cras. Intense, driving, great Charmes, how can all these wines be so great? – a Charmes of direction and energy.
2018 Meursault 1er Bouches-Chères
Directly a more floral nose, very attractive. Driving but with more width than the Charmes, vibrating with finishing intensity. Soooo goood…
As if to add to my burden of finding practically all his wines great, Patrick suggests “I think a small fining will add elegance to all these.”
2018 Meursault 1er Gouttes d’Or
‘The youngest of the old vines at about 50.’ It’s a cru apart, it’s about concentration and power, sometimes it’s severe
A more pronounced mineral nose, almost a little smoke. Ooh, more structural – it’s the Clos de Vougeot of these whites. Citrus acidity, tons of intensity – it needs a little patience to round that all out, but it’s captivating!
Les rouges:
2018 Bourgogne Rouge Hautes Coutures
One parcel in Volnay, plus a second in Puligny. Assembled before harvest. 30% new wood – all now assembled in tank.
Ooh, that’s a beautiful, directly fresh and pure perfumed fruit. Drive and freshness – like the whites – vibrantly fruited. Modestly intense finishing but delicious – excellent.
2018 Pommard Chiveau
From high, the last harvested parcel.
Lots of colour. Like the last a forward and attractive nose, more spice here than pure fruit. Supple, concentrated, holding much longer than the bourgogne. That’s really good!
70-year-old vines next to Clos 60 Ouvrées, all whole cluster.
A nose between the last two for spice and fruit but with much more depth – really appealing. Supple again, more concentrated again, layered middle and finishing flavours. A width of grain but fine, a bright burst of finishing flavour. Yes!
2018 Corton Clos du Roi
Grapes bought – 70 yo vines all wc.
Not a big nose, but a very fine nose, growing a purity of fruit – but fruit that remains largely subdued. Ooh, luxury texture over the palate, wide, not a big finish but such a long finish – excellent.
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