Tasted in Meursault with Antoine Jobard, 23 October, 2019.
Domaine Antoine Jobard
2 Rue Leignon
Tel: +33 3 80 21 21 26
Antoine on 2019:
“Hot and dry. We started harvesting 10 September, later than the weather would suggest because it was cold during the flowering. Generally, it was a dry year with a low yield because the grapes didn’t have the full chance to grow – but that means the grapes were concentrated with high quality. All were 14 – 14.5° but not planned for Donald Trump’s tax! I’m happy with the quality, but the Bourgogne was only half a harvest – 35 hl/ha for villages and 50 for the 1ers – the latter very correct – but we were losing every day before the harvest as there was this dry wind – it’s nice to harvest late but you lose a lot!”
Antoine on 2018:
“31 August was our harvest start. We had plenty of volume. It was another warm year though less than in 2019, less dryness too – as we had a lot of rain in May before the dry weather set in – the vines didn’t suffer at all. A dry summer but it was the weather of May that saved the volume. Wines that are a little easy – is that the vintage or the yield? – we seem to have enough material, they are not heavy – neither are they too warm or acidic.“
Wines without a punch, rather they caress, they whisper in your ear – sometimes they even dance…
All will be bottled about February – ‘though they are very precocious.’
2018 Bourgogne Blanc
5 parcels all from in the commune of Meursault
Ooh – that’s a wonderful invitation, sweet but alive lemon-style fruit. Supple, mineral, clarity – perhaps a zip more acid and it would be even better, but here’s a delicious wine of clarity and purity. More than excellent with a great finish.
From Sous la Velle, Chaux and Corbins.
Hmm – airy, wide, hyper attractive again with a little extra Meursault-ness and even a floral hint. Wide, more incisive – here is the acidity that would have lifted the Bourgogne to great. Melting, pure citrus, line – gorgeous wine! Bravo delicious!
2018 Meursault En La Barre
“At 1.3 hectares, this is the biggest appellation here and the garden to the domaine
A little more shy – but wide, pure and almost shimmering – a fine aromatic invitation. A little more drive and line – a more mineral wine for sure of lovely flashes of complexity. Understated, discrete even, but beautiful – excellent wine!
A little less width of aroma but a fine depth of mineral complexity. A very different shape in the mouth – mouth-filling but very open, finely melting with mouth-watering pure citrus complexity. Beautiful depth and great finishing note. Love this…
2018 Puligny-Montrachet Le Trezin
70 year-old vines here, quite high, ‘always a super quality with grapes that keep clean, whilst resisting the rot.’
A different style of minerality in the depth here – open, accessible. Little more supple texture, the flour is mobile and fills all the spaces in the mouth – melting citrus again – a certain tension, yes, but no more than Tillets. Delicious wine.
2018 St.Aubin 1er Sur le Sentier du Clou
2012 was the first vintage, 2 barrels. Came from wife’s family – also have also Derrière Chez Eduard and Perrières now. Some parts planted in 1992 and 2002 but the average vine age is 40 years.
High-toned freshness – more of lime-style of citrus fruit but not hard or harsh. Here is direction and quite an intensity to the citrus fruit. Vibrating in the finish – I’d wait a little longer for this one, but it’s really a fine ride!
Plenty of freshness, but here is a fuller nose, a little more shaded toward yellow fruit, maybe even quince. Wider, fuller, intense, a strong wave of flavour over the palate – intense like the last. Super and vigorous. Excellent wine, indeed great St.Aubin.
2018 St.Aubin 1er Les Perrières
A width of aroma, but more about depth than high tones. Like the last two with fine acidity, that drives wine and its flavours forward – almost a tannin in the middle – melting, mouth-watering, juicy wine! Excellent, like biting into a juicy fruit!
Their Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Champs Gains was pulled out for replanting after the 2017 vintage.
2018 Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru
A part of 60 year-old vines plus some from 2009.
Much different, more coy, but spiced and almost textural – a lovely invitation. Fuller, sweeter but very open, pure, I love the melting flavour here – this is delicious, complex and accommodating. So yum – and what a great finish!
2018 Meursault 1er Cru Poruzots
A vibrant nose if not that big – a depth of mineral-inflected notes. A wave of acid-led, mineral flavour. Here is concentration, layers of mineral flavour and just a little depth of texture. Very fine definition here – and just so long.
2018 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières
Together with Remi, part was replanted in March 2017. The vines were on the SO4 rootstock and the longevity of those vines wasn’t great. Will have been cleared for 2 vintages before replanting – the first harvest will be in 2019.
A more textured nose – not that big, but complex and inviting – a suggestion of aniseed. Full, ooh, that’s lovely; transparent, finely plump but fresh, long, delicious flavour. Excellent finishing complexity too! Just delicious with a hint of dry extract in the finish.
This shows the purest fruit of all these, suggesting something a little floral too. Wow – this is mouth-filling and fresh – a surprise for Charmes. Open, fine fruited, layers of flavour with just a hint of textural padding, finally more mineral. Perfect citrus fruit in the finish – the most complete wine of all – bravo!