Tasted in Meursault with Anne Morey, 17 October 2019.
Domaine Anne et Pierre Morey
13 Rue Pierre Mouchoux
Tel: +33 3 80 21 21 03
Anne Morey on 2019:
“I won’t say that it was complicated, but the whole year had a certain worry: Frost, lack of water, worry over oïdium – in the end, none were really problematic, but there was constant pressure. In the end, we had magnificent grapes though, of-course some deficits of volume but not dramatic compared to some other places – I made about the same volume as in 2015. Happy!”
Anne Morey on 2018:
“We started 2nd September with the chardonnay – the reds 4-5 days later. The reds are a little more serious and concentrated vs the 2017s but they seem accessible – but that’s the ripe vintages for you. The whites are very good, perhaps a little less airy than the 2017s. It certainly wasn’t an easy campaign as there was the pressure of maladies and so many storms. We avoided the hail – just a few ‘grelons’ – but we trembled each time a storm announced itself. The pulp of the whites must have been different in 2018, the skins were just as hard in 17 as in 18, but I still don’t find the logic for the extra juice they delivered in 2018 – I expected the same as 2017…”
Excellent, sometimes great reds and plenty of great whites too – such a successful vintage for this address. Bravo!
2018 Bourgogne Rouge
All the domaine’s regionals come from the commune of Meursault, here from a little clos next to the domaine, and to the north towards Volnay. Only racked 10 days ago, but showing very well!
Plenty of colour and fine, ample, but precise fruit for the label – very attractive. Supple, round and delicious in the mouth – with a nice finishing weight of flavour too – yes, delicious!
2018 Meursault Durots, Rouge
Next to Santenots, there are some chardonnay vines co-planted here…
Ooh – more class to this fruit aroma – such an invitation. Layered, nicely textured, fresh and concentrated – the palate is a little behind the nose in terms of generosity today, but not by much – a real Meursault of character. Excellent
From Les Plures near the vines of the Hospices.
Hmm – a super nose again, another tiny step forward, also a modest but fine floral note too! Fuller, more layered delivery of flavour – not much less structure but this is hyper-successful this year – bravo!
2018 Morey-Blanc, Volnay 1er Les Pitures
A new wine here.
Hmm – a lovely nose again – a little more floral – the wines are singing here this morning. Finer structured – open, a nice line of flavour – I love the open nature of this wine. Very broad finishing – ooh this is sappy/vibrant and delicious – excellent wine!
A tighter nose but obviously concentrated – pure ripe fruit in the middle. Open, more structural, round flavours – a little Corton – a wine that grows and grows, filling all the small parts of your palate – growing deliciously – tons of potential here – maybe bravo!
Just as Anne started pouring the first white she noted, “Oh, I forgot to prepare a sample of the aligoté – but don’t worry – it’s a good one,” she smiles!
Had yields that were just a little higher than allowed for the Côte d’Or label and wasn’t going to distil a couple of barrels to keep that label!
Hmm, forward, saline, a little spiced. This is first-class over the palate – composed but pure, Meursault-spiced, fine-textured. Bravo!
2018 Morey-Blanc, St.Romain Sous la Château
The return of St.Romain smiles Anne…
A fresher nose, here touched with a little barrel cream but also a growing mineral streak. Open, bright, lovely open structure. Pretty, mineral and with citrus deliciousness.
Three parcels, Pellans, Chaumes de Narvaux and Forges
Composed, understated, classic Meursault ginger spice touched with aromas of flowers. Open, pure, classy wine – deliciously complex, perfectly Meursault. Delicacy, purity but intensity – the finish with a certain sizzle – bravo!
2018 Meursault Tessons
Hmm, directly there is a more mineral aspect to this nose, still with a faintly spiced accent. A soft entry but such a fine, mouth-watering, flavour. Beautiful texture. Supple, layered finishing. A wine of contemplation despite plenty of energy – vibrantly finishing again – simply lovely…
2018 Meursault 1er Perrières
A change of register again – clarity but less weight of aroma – faint herb, seemingly some depth too. Ooh – the clarity is my first though, supple, slowly adding a little comfort to the texture too. Mineral undertow to the finish, but there’s more fruit here too – less fizzle but more length. Super
The second domaine vintage.
A more open nose, vibrant, just a beauty! Driving, beautiful line, direct and fresh, mineral – real tension – almost a mandarin fruit in the finish, phenolic – excellent? No, better!
A little tighter nose here but of obvious depth. Like the Puligny actually, but wrapped in more ample texture – slowly relaxing over the palate, delivering flavour in successive waves. Clearly a grander wine and a delicious one too – very Puligny and a little extra floral impression in the finish.