Tasted in Rully with Christophe-Jean Grandmougin, 09 November 2018.
11 Rue Saint-Jacques
Tel: 00 33 9 65 04 01 54
Here is an old family domaine in a super old house in Rully, but not originally this family! It was bought by Christophe-Jean Grandmougin’s father in 1955, but now Christophe-Jean already has a third generation that are working at the domaine – “The young ones always have the best ideas” he says!
The 9 hectare domaine is in the process of conversion organic – “In the vines though not with all the paperwork,” says Christophe-Jean. Of the 9 hectares that are currently exploited, 7.5 are Rully 1er cru, with some aligoté. There are vines in 5 white 1ers and in 2 red 1ers, Christophe-Jean says that “All are ‘well-placed’ vines too – it’s a shame that white has more of a reputation, because that ignores that the reds can be great from here too.”
“Since 1991 I have been reducing the amount of herbicides and pesticides, replacing with more mechanical work – In fact I have now recovered the ploughs of my father and starting to work with them and a horse to plough in the vines – of-course right now it’s just parcels here and there, as one person and one horse can’t do 9 hectares, but eventually the plan is to be biodynamic. After nearly 30 years, there’s a certain life that I can see that I’ve restored in the soil and I think its given a certain extra character to the wines. Of-course with hand harvesting – I don’t like too many heavy operations in the vines.”
Christophe-Jean on 2018:
“2018 was generous in all senses – quality and quantity. Older heads compare the vintage to 1982, 1986 or 1990 for whites; generous aromas and with complexity. We started our harvest on the 25 August, versus 29 August in 2017.”
Christophe-Jean on 2017:
“If 2018 was at the maximum, then 2017 brought 40% less as were frosted – not as much as in 2016 when virtually all was lost. The wines are now racked either into tank or back into barrels.”
As for the markets for this domaine’s wines – they export to many regions, and the bulk of their production is white.
I noted the name of this producer from the catalogue of a serious Swiss importer, so decided to search them out. So, my first visit to taste what are clearly serious, well-made, but even more importantly, delicious wines. Definitely worth following…
2017 Rully 1er Marissou (Red)
It depends on vintage as to whether there is whole-clusters used or not, here about 20% was included. Probably will bottle in March or April,
An attractive, nose – very red-fruited and energetic too. Plenty of depth of flavour, good concentration too – melting then more layered finishing. There’s some oak here, but the wine supports it – very tasty. This is clearly a wine made for keeping, despite such early charms!
2017 Bourgogne Aligoté
From vines in the commune of Rully.
A fresh and attractive nose with a touch of sweetness. Wide, mineral, a touch of cushioning and salinity. Oaky in the first wave of the finish but then pure at the end. Attractive wine despite the oak.
2017 Rully (White)
Two parcels assembled.
Ooh, a vibrantly pineapple nose. The palate too – fresh with nice intensity – long too. This seems a bit non standard, but is very delicious with great finishing line of flavour.
Hmm, the fruit a little in the direction of the last, but really much more exciting and mineral – yes! Supple, more concentred, great line, mineral, with tension, long. Indeed very long. Excellent wine – bravo!