Matrot – 2017

Update 6.12.2018(5.12.2018)billn

Tasted in Meursault with Adèle Matrot, 23 October 2018.

Domaine Matrot
Thierry et Pascale Matrot
12 rue de Martray
21190 Meursault
Tel: +33 3 80 21 20 13

On 2018:
2018 is super – there’s quality and quantity – just magnifique! We started 24 August and we had good tartaric acid, though not much malic, but very happy with the results.

On 2017:
In 2017 we started harvesting 28 August. The whites brought a correct volume, they are balanced, with some richness – it was a sunny vintage, but we kept the acidity. The whites are similar to 2014. One parcel of bourgogne this year was frosted 90% but it was in quite a ‘humid’ area. The reds had a good volume, they are accessible and round – the 2018s are probably more concentrated. 2017 was complicated for reds in terms of when pick – we picked before the rain came as at first there seemed nothing to gain from waiting, but then better weather came again after – but from what we saw, we made the right decision as the grapes that remained had some rot. We did a hard triage for the later picked vines such as Maranges and Auxey – some said we overdid it(!) but it’s our name on the labels and we’re happy with the result. Then we had a lack of barrels for reds after the recent short vintages so there’s a little more new oak so we did extra time in tank and fortunately the oak seems to have been eaten – the wines tasted good but the identity of the domaine is not new oak! – It’s a supple red vintage for people who like pinot from Burgundy – not rich or high alcohol.

The wines…

The reds here are flattering, tasty wines. Probably due to recent bottlings, many white cuvées were not in full voice – but some others were absolutely compelling.

There are plenty of screw-caps used for lower wines – and other wines for certain markets by request. Normal cork the rest but DIAM is also under test.

Reds racked at the end of the harvest:

2017 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
In tank
Hmm a lovely round and flattering nose. Round in the mouth – tasty, easy, but delicious. Flattering but it has a good depth too.

2017 Maranges
A little tighter and fresher nose. Hmm, depth and more intensity, there’s an extra depth of flavour here – more tannin to go with the depth of flavour.

2017 Auxey-Duresses
Two parcels Boutonniers and Heptures
A lovely nose that’s floral and fine – really inviting. Round, structural, good tannin but with a mouth-watering juiciness. Love the nose, the palate is very good.

2017 Monthelie
From Hautes Brins
A rounder nose with some cushioning. Nice red fruit and with finer tannin – lovely depth of relaxed flavour – really engaging. The mid and finish are excellent.

2017 Meursault
From Malpoiriers and the rest from Dressoles
A deeper and more concentrated nose, macerating but fine red fruit. Hmm, round, concentrated, vibrant flavour – certain density in the middle – but really engaging – not the fineness of fruit of the last but more of everything else – super!

2017 Maranges 1er Fuissières
Much less colour than the Meursault and this harvested a week later, all destemmed, only remontage.
A much more compact nose – not giving much away. A very different shape and structure – plenty of tannin but less grain, plenty of fresh red fruit. Almost a chocolate to the finish.

2017 Volnay 1er Santenots
Ooh – that’s quite a fine and attractive nose, partly floral – not large but very inviting. The fruit in the mouth is finely red and also a little floral. A little depth of flavour and tannin to match. Quite an easy Santenots but also a delicious one!

2017 Blagny
Fresh and with a slightly harder red fruit. A little reduction in the depth of this flavour – a more structural wine – to wait for. Mineral and also a little tannic. The last flavours are excellent – it’s harder work in the middle today. Patience should be rewarded…

Les Blancs:
Some of the whites are already bottled – just the last 3 cuvées wait and they will be bottled in December.

2017 Bourgogne Chardonnay
20% new oak but also a part – 30% – only in tank
A compact but fruity nose. Nice density and concentration. Wide and with insinuating flavour. Almost a little tannic in the finish. Fine Bourgogne.

2017 Saint Romain
A long-term contract this. ‘30% new oak to round any St.Romain austerity.’
Deep and a little tight like the last. Hmm, more width and concentration, more brightness of complexity in the middle. This is excellent

2017 St.Aubin 1er Charmois
A fresher nose, almost with a hint of floral with a riper fruit – very inviting. Wide, fresh, open, fine depth of flavour. Engaging, delicious wine of super length.

2017 Meursault
No new oak
Steely, a little reductive (this tasted from screw-cap). Not an overt concentration – wide and steely in the mouth, growing in intensity. I like this very much but I’d carafe – lovely finishing mineral and citrus flavour.

2017 Meursault Chevaliers
All this cuvée goes to the US with some new oak in the elevage.
A touch of firework reduction. Hmm, lovely direct wine, mineral, complex, composed, delicious wine – bravo!

2017 Meursault-Blagny 1er
Compact, tight fruit on the nose, only hinting at higher tones. Directly more intense and incisive – fine acidity coupled to the minerality. Layers of wider flavour in the finish. Excellent.

2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Chalumaux
Another nose with a small twist of mineral-style reduction. Much wider but similarly fresh to the Meursault-Blagny – more saline and complex – though that latter wine is more delicious today. Elegant but to wait for… Really a concentration of finishing flavour here.

2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Quintessence
A mx of Chalumaux, and Garenne with 50% new oak – ‘because the Garenne parcel is so small.’
The nose is more open in the width – a slightly dirty oak note – but not much to see below or above today. Another fine and incisive palate – really quite something – and not obviously oaky, but a little of the aroma on the nose I can find in the middle of the flavour too. Not convinced today…

2017 Meursault 1er Charmes
From 4 parcels, 75 % higher vines near Perrières, 10% from the middle and 15% from the lower 2 parcels just under Perrières but part now pulled out for replanting. Not yet bottled
Ooh – a lovely nose, purer and more vibrant. Vibrant in the mouth too – a depth of complex flavour. Changing all the time. Super finishing – bravo!

2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Combettes
A reductive element to the nose of this unfinished wine. Fine texture a lot of width but still a wine of direction, of line. Vibrant again with waves of sweet finishing flavour – a super finish! A wine, as a minimum, that will be excellent…

2017 Meursault 1er Perrières
A tighter nose but still of cushioned width. A little gas but anyway with lots of energy. Such a growing complexity of mid-palate flavour. A beautifully complex finishing flavour, almost a hint of discretion in this finish but beautiful. Such a persistence of finishing flavour. Not yet, but very soon, bravo!

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