Tasted in Meursault with Adèle Matrot, 23 October 2018.
Thierry et Pascale Matrot
12 rue de Martray
Tel: +33 3 80 21 20 13
“2018 is super – there’s quality and quantity – just magnifique! We started 24 August and we had good tartaric acid, though not much malic, but very happy with the results.”
“In 2017 we started harvesting 28 August. The whites brought a correct volume, they are balanced, with some richness – it was a sunny vintage, but we kept the acidity. The whites are similar to 2014. One parcel of bourgogne this year was frosted 90% but it was in quite a ‘humid’ area. The reds had a good volume, they are accessible and round – the 2018s are probably more concentrated. 2017 was complicated for reds in terms of when pick – we picked before the rain came as at first there seemed nothing to gain from waiting, but then better weather came again after – but from what we saw, we made the right decision as the grapes that remained had some rot. We did a hard triage for the later picked vines such as Maranges and Auxey – some said we overdid it(!) but it’s our name on the labels and we’re happy with the result. Then we had a lack of barrels for reds after the recent short vintages so there’s a little more new oak so we did extra time in tank and fortunately the oak seems to have been eaten – the wines tasted good but the identity of the domaine is not new oak! – It’s a supple red vintage for people who like pinot from Burgundy – not rich or high alcohol.”
The reds here are flattering, tasty wines. Probably due to recent bottlings, many white cuvées were not in full voice – but some others were absolutely compelling.
There are plenty of screw-caps used for lower wines – and other wines for certain markets by request. Normal cork the rest but DIAM is also under test.
Reds racked at the end of the harvest:
2017 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Hmm a lovely round and flattering nose. Round in the mouth – tasty, easy, but delicious. Flattering but it has a good depth too.
A little tighter and fresher nose. Hmm, depth and more intensity, there’s an extra depth of flavour here – more tannin to go with the depth of flavour.
Two parcels Boutonniers and Heptures
A lovely nose that’s floral and fine – really inviting. Round, structural, good tannin but with a mouth-watering juiciness. Love the nose, the palate is very good.
From Hautes Brins
A rounder nose with some cushioning. Nice red fruit and with finer tannin – lovely depth of relaxed flavour – really engaging. The mid and finish are excellent.
From Malpoiriers and the rest from Dressoles
A deeper and more concentrated nose, macerating but fine red fruit. Hmm, round, concentrated, vibrant flavour – certain density in the middle – but really engaging – not the fineness of fruit of the last but more of everything else – super!
2017 Maranges 1er Fuissières
Much less colour than the Meursault and this harvested a week later, all destemmed, only remontage.
A much more compact nose – not giving much away. A very different shape and structure – plenty of tannin but less grain, plenty of fresh red fruit. Almost a chocolate to the finish.
2017 Volnay 1er Santenots
Ooh – that’s quite a fine and attractive nose, partly floral – not large but very inviting. The fruit in the mouth is finely red and also a little floral. A little depth of flavour and tannin to match. Quite an easy Santenots but also a delicious one!
Fresh and with a slightly harder red fruit. A little reduction in the depth of this flavour – a more structural wine – to wait for. Mineral and also a little tannic. The last flavours are excellent – it’s harder work in the middle today. Patience should be rewarded…
Some of the whites are already bottled – just the last 3 cuvées wait and they will be bottled in December.
2017 Bourgogne Chardonnay
20% new oak but also a part – 30% – only in tank
A compact but fruity nose. Nice density and concentration. Wide and with insinuating flavour. Almost a little tannic in the finish. Fine Bourgogne.
2017 Saint Romain
A long-term contract this. ‘30% new oak to round any St.Romain austerity.’
Deep and a little tight like the last. Hmm, more width and concentration, more brightness of complexity in the middle. This is excellent
2017 St.Aubin 1er Charmois
A fresher nose, almost with a hint of floral with a riper fruit – very inviting. Wide, fresh, open, fine depth of flavour. Engaging, delicious wine of super length.
No new oak
Steely, a little reductive (this tasted from screw-cap). Not an overt concentration – wide and steely in the mouth, growing in intensity. I like this very much but I’d carafe – lovely finishing mineral and citrus flavour.
All this cuvée goes to the US with some new oak in the elevage.
A touch of firework reduction. Hmm, lovely direct wine, mineral, complex, composed, delicious wine – bravo!
2017 Meursault-Blagny 1er
Compact, tight fruit on the nose, only hinting at higher tones. Directly more intense and incisive – fine acidity coupled to the minerality. Layers of wider flavour in the finish. Excellent.
2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Chalumaux
Another nose with a small twist of mineral-style reduction. Much wider but similarly fresh to the Meursault-Blagny – more saline and complex – though that latter wine is more delicious today. Elegant but to wait for… Really a concentration of finishing flavour here.
2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Quintessence
A mx of Chalumaux, and Garenne with 50% new oak – ‘because the Garenne parcel is so small.’
The nose is more open in the width – a slightly dirty oak note – but not much to see below or above today. Another fine and incisive palate – really quite something – and not obviously oaky, but a little of the aroma on the nose I can find in the middle of the flavour too. Not convinced today…
From 4 parcels, 75 % higher vines near Perrières, 10% from the middle and 15% from the lower 2 parcels just under Perrières but part now pulled out for replanting. Not yet bottled
Ooh – a lovely nose, purer and more vibrant. Vibrant in the mouth too – a depth of complex flavour. Changing all the time. Super finishing – bravo!
2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Combettes
A reductive element to the nose of this unfinished wine. Fine texture a lot of width but still a wine of direction, of line. Vibrant again with waves of sweet finishing flavour – a super finish! A wine, as a minimum, that will be excellent…
A tighter nose but still of cushioned width. A little gas but anyway with lots of energy. Such a growing complexity of mid-palate flavour. A beautifully complex finishing flavour, almost a hint of discretion in this finish but beautiful. Such a persistence of finishing flavour. Not yet, but very soon, bravo!