Marc Morey – 2017


Tasted in Chassagne-Montrachet, with Sabine Mollard, 24 October 2018.

Domaine Marc Morey Fils
3 Rue Charles Paquelin
21190 Chassagne-Montrachet
Tel: +33 3 80 21 30 11

Sabine on 2018:
A nice year, good for volume and quality: We had no rain in July and August, unlike Meursault. We did start to lose some leaves so the result was a surprise – perhaps less volume than some villages but still it was a nice surprise. But far from a record vintage for volume. We started harvesting 03 September.

Sabine on 2017:
2017 – Again happy – certainly after 2016, less stress, but again lots of organization for such an early vintage – we started 02 September in 2017 – so a day earlier than in 2018. Still, it wasn’t too hard to get pickers as we lodge and feed them! I think we have very interesting wines, accessible, pleasant but also wines that will age well – there’s enough bottles that there will be more to open with time – I think that the vintage has kept freshness and elegance. We saw no frost, we burnt the straw and I think the smoke that it produced made a difference – and of course the vines that were frosted in 2016 certainly managed to push their yields in 2017.

The wine…

There are some great wines at this address in 2017 – though unlike some domaines, the wines don’t have an overt sucrosity – – this just emphasises their ‘vin de garde’ nature. The prices here are the same as 2016 – ‘It’s nice to finally stop having to say no to people who want to buy wine!’

The Bourgogne and a number others were bottled before the harvest, some others, like Virondot, Caillerets and Pucelles have longer elevage so are still in tank:

2017 Bourgogne Chardonnay
Some negoce from hautes cotes to go with domaine vines in Chassagne.
Hmm, a nice depth and perfume to this nose. Mouth-filling volume with a certain richness and a cushion to the texture, yet with concentration and depth of ripe fruit flavour. Long fine – another excellent Bourgogne.

2017 St.Aubin 1er Le Charmois
A suggestion of biscuit reduction, narrower but quite deep aromas. Supple, a little more clarity to the concentration, wider, beautifully defined flavour, mouth-watering, long. Bravo!

2017 Chassagne-Montrachet
Three main parcels in the domaine, some low volume 1er cru plus one purchase of grapes.
A shiny width of yellow fruit, accented with barrel. Textured, faintly cushioned, clarity and a little minerality – like the last but with more depth and power to the flavour – so less easy to drink today despite the suave cut of its clothes. Drink the St.Aubin first, but this is excellent and very long.

2017 Puligny-Montrachet
Bought grapes though the domaine does the work in the vines.
More aromatic volume, a little higher toned too. A width of concentration a hint of tannin, fresh mobile flavour but like the previous wines with a serious concentration – more elegantly delivered with this glass. Excellent.

2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Chenevottes
Not a big nose but complex and very fine. Wide, with depth too, fine textured, mobile slowly mouth-watering wine – not extravagantly energetic but subtly changing all the time. Fine and contemplative – very elegant, also long.

2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Vergers
A more compact, less giving nose. More direct, good mineral freshness, slowly melting – beautifull melting growth of flavour but clearly a wine to be a little more patient with – elegant, fine, but still concentrated. Excellent – wait a couple of years, great finishing again.

2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er En Virondot
This the first still in tank.
Ooh this is a very open, complex, some floral and mineral – great! Round, concentrated, such a lot of wine here, only slowly melting offering saline references, and a growing width of flavour as you head to the finish. What a great but baby wine! Bravo!
2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Caillerets
Vines right next to the village in vigne derrière. ‘Chenevottes is always good but Caillerets it depends – we got a good one in 17 though!’
A more composed nose, attractive width with a little floral complexity – very nice. A wine of architectural scale – like some others only slowly the flavour melting from the structure – beautiful but painfully young. A great but baby wine, again!

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