Tasted in Chassagne-Montrachet, with Sabine Mollard, 24 October 2018.
Domaine Marc Morey Fils
3 Rue Charles Paquelin
Tel: +33 3 80 21 30 11
Sabine on 2018:
“A nice year, good for volume and quality: We had no rain in July and August, unlike Meursault. We did start to lose some leaves so the result was a surprise – perhaps less volume than some villages but still it was a nice surprise. But far from a record vintage for volume. We started harvesting 03 September.”
Sabine on 2017:
“2017 – Again happy – certainly after 2016, less stress, but again lots of organization for such an early vintage – we started 02 September in 2017 – so a day earlier than in 2018. Still, it wasn’t too hard to get pickers as we lodge and feed them! I think we have very interesting wines, accessible, pleasant but also wines that will age well – there’s enough bottles that there will be more to open with time – I think that the vintage has kept freshness and elegance. We saw no frost, we burnt the straw and I think the smoke that it produced made a difference – and of course the vines that were frosted in 2016 certainly managed to push their yields in 2017.”
There are some great wines at this address in 2017 – though unlike some domaines, the wines don’t have an overt sucrosity – – this just emphasises their ‘vin de garde’ nature. The prices here are the same as 2016 – ‘It’s nice to finally stop having to say no to people who want to buy wine!’
The Bourgogne and a number others were bottled before the harvest, some others, like Virondot, Caillerets and Pucelles have longer elevage so are still in tank:
2017 Bourgogne Chardonnay
Some negoce from hautes cotes to go with domaine vines in Chassagne.
Hmm, a nice depth and perfume to this nose. Mouth-filling volume with a certain richness and a cushion to the texture, yet with concentration and depth of ripe fruit flavour. Long fine – another excellent Bourgogne.
A suggestion of biscuit reduction, narrower but quite deep aromas. Supple, a little more clarity to the concentration, wider, beautifully defined flavour, mouth-watering, long. Bravo!
Three main parcels in the domaine, some low volume 1er cru plus one purchase of grapes.
A shiny width of yellow fruit, accented with barrel. Textured, faintly cushioned, clarity and a little minerality – like the last but with more depth and power to the flavour – so less easy to drink today despite the suave cut of its clothes. Drink the St.Aubin first, but this is excellent and very long.
Bought grapes though the domaine does the work in the vines.
More aromatic volume, a little higher toned too. A width of concentration a hint of tannin, fresh mobile flavour but like the previous wines with a serious concentration – more elegantly delivered with this glass. Excellent.
2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Chenevottes
Not a big nose but complex and very fine. Wide, with depth too, fine textured, mobile slowly mouth-watering wine – not extravagantly energetic but subtly changing all the time. Fine and contemplative – very elegant, also long.
2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Vergers
A more compact, less giving nose. More direct, good mineral freshness, slowly melting – beautifull melting growth of flavour but clearly a wine to be a little more patient with – elegant, fine, but still concentrated. Excellent – wait a couple of years, great finishing again.
This the first still in tank.
Ooh this is a very open, complex, some floral and mineral – great! Round, concentrated, such a lot of wine here, only slowly melting offering saline references, and a growing width of flavour as you head to the finish. What a great but baby wine! Bravo!
Vines right next to the village in vigne derrière. ‘Chenevottes is always good but Caillerets it depends – we got a good one in 17 though!’
A more composed nose, attractive width with a little floral complexity – very nice. A wine of architectural scale – like some others only slowly the flavour melting from the structure – beautiful but painfully young. A great but baby wine, again!