Tasted in Meursault with Nadine Gublin, 04 October, 2018.
Domaine Jacques Prieur
6 Rue des Santenots
Tel: +33 3 80 21 23 85
Nadine compares 2017 with 2018:
“2017, like 2018, was also an early vintage – we started our harvest on the 29th, exactly the same day as in 2018, but in 2017 we started with chardonnay, it was the pinot in 2018 – we waited for the 6th September in 2017 for the reds. We saw more rain in 2018 but in a tropical style, with heat then rain, heat then rain – 2017 was drier with a more classic summer dryness. Veraison was done at start of August it was a rather short vegetative cycle. In 2018 whites had a little more volume, reds a little less versus 2017. But 2017 was really a ‘normal’ vintage for in terms of quantity – and in both colours.
There wasn’t especially more or less whole-cluster use in 2017 – choice is usually by terroir rather than particular vintage changes. The objective of our use of whole-clusters is to add a little extra airiness and spice to wines that might otherwise be rather ‘serious’ – aided by the small amount of semi-carbonic fermentation.
“White 2017s are very interesting – we will discover them together – a number of fermentations finished quite late in the summer and I haven’t really tasted since before the harvest. We started our harvest with whites in 2017 as they very quickly started increasing their sugars – we had to be quick. In 2018 everything was ready at the same time – that’s the main logistical difference between the vintages. 13-13.5° at harvest. In white there’s more definition, reds are to an extent ‘easy’ but with great wines – without question – but in white there is higher achievement and there is the exceptional. None of that was sure at the time of harvesting and from the analytics.”
There are some very fine reds at this address in 2017, but there are great whites at this address in 2017. The energy for such an early vintage is the thing! Freshness and energy…
For the reds; all are still in barrel, not racked. Bottling will most-likely begin in January and run until May…
2017 Meursault Clos de Mazeray Rouge
Nice colour. Some whole cluster here – 40%.
A depth of aroma, well judged roses from the whole clusters. Sweet, round, faintly oaky – but this is a precociously attractive wine, slowly growing a little tannin. I’d certainly wait for the oak to fade but it’s already very attractive.
2017 Beaune 1er Clos de la Feguine
All destemmed – normal for this location
A deep nose, some silky width inclusive, dark red but still very red fruit. Hmm, this directly round, silky, decently concentrated with a very berry-cherry fruit presentation. An underpinning of tannin – this is excellent. Very attractive wine without any oak showing.
2017 Beaune 1er Champimonts
Nice depth of transparent colour, 15% whole-clusters used here. More clay and more depth of red soil vs the Feguine, hence a little inclusion of wc. This maybe gets an elevage until April.
Hmm, a more reticent nose but of silky red fruit. Round, fresh, juicy – hmm – energetic and exciting. My favourite so far. Still a little tannin. An effervescent wine that I like very much – excellent – and with fine length too.
2017 Pommard 1er Charmots
All whole clusters used here – but still lots of colour. Reticent nose, yet deep and faintly spiced – inviting. Hmm, like the Champs Piment, but more direct with even more freshness and a faint astringence to almost grainless tannin. Super-juicy but a wine to wait a couple of years for – the most impressive finishing complexity of any of these so far – really excellent, dynamic wine here.
2017 Volnay 1er Santenots
Younger vines of the Clos de Santenots – now about 22 years old – all destemmed.
A more open width of dark red fruit. More mouth-filling, beautiful silky texture with a slight astringence. Oaked for now but really a fine volume and concentration – velour and volume – very much a crowd pleaser despite the oak. Yum!
2017 Volnay 1er Clos des Santenots
Also all destemmed.
A nose with both more purity and freshness – but not volume. Similar volume to the first but more freshness – there is more energy here, plus a slowly mouth-watering extra complexity. In the end an extra class…
40% whole cluster.
Hmm – the beautiful nose so far, with depth of fruit and very fine violet flowers above – yes! A wine of line and freshness and a slightly herbed tinge – but energetic and really complex – the nose is great the palate just a little behind. But a fine Corton all the same – it needs time. Indeed the best part of 6 more months of elevage is still to come here.
15% whole cluster, malo only finished at the end of August
Hmm another very classy nose – more airy, beautifully floral perfumed too. Structural, lots of volume but lots of complexity to fill it, even a touch of salinity. Of-course to wait for but this could be really excellent. I love the structure here. One day this could be great.
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Now 22 years old Chambertin vines – its still not on the same level as the old vines – we wait! All destemmed. Just one cuvee was made in 16 as this was completely frosted but contained hardly any of the old vines.
A lovely nose of depth and dimension – faintly spiced even without the stems. Volume, energy, complexity – this is simply excellent in 2017 – I would say great wine before tasting it’s bigger brother. Just perhaps missing the depth – let’s see, super finishing.
Also completely destemmed.
Deeper colour than the last. A tighter, but still fresher nose, also very faintly spiced. A touch of gas here, but I wait, slowly it’s clear that there is more depth of both texture and concentration – slowly tannin too. The young vines are delicious today, this needs more time – as it should be. Excellent wine, the flavour sustaining long on the palate…
From Champs Traversins – Poulaillères nearby is all DRC, had these vines since 1996 – ‘I think the location here always exceeds the vintage variation.’ Also all destemmed.
Like the Chambertin, lots of colour. A little narrow, but the aromas have impressive depth – spiced? – maybe – indeed with time, certainly – this nose just gets better and better. Great aromatics. Round, fine volume – ultra silky wine – am I still allowed to say ultra-sexy? That’s not gender-specific – so probably yes! Complex, mobile on the mouth – open and just a dream. Great wine…
The first nose offers faint spice, only slowly growing – first with a little salinity – then a faint florality – I really don’t have the required time (30 minutes?) to devote to this. Ultra silky – like the last – but with more reserves of depth and flavour – I was fully prepared to declare the Echézeaux the winner here – but it’s not. This is great wine of beautiful texture and perfectly cushioned muscular flavour. This will only get better and better – 10, 20, 30 years – you choose, it’s another world…
There is again a Griotte-Chambertin in 2017 but the malo was so late that it’s not tasted due to reductive aromas – ‘But it’s juicy and elegant‘ says Nadine.
Some purchases: Labruyere-Prieure Selection labelled – next year there will also be an extra selection of Santenay/Chassagne (starting in 2018) where all the work and elevage is done by the Prieur team:
2017 Labruyere-Prieure Selection, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Fontenys
Here is an open, faintly spiced, faintly herbed but beautifully growing base of ripe fruit too. Round, fresh, faintly herbed – but then it’s following two grand vins(!) – fine in the mouth with volume and fine texture. This is a beautiful wine with just a very faint touch of oak today…
2017 Labruyere-Prieure Selection, Charmes-Chambertin
From Charmes proper. Very old vines that produce very small grapes – we always have this colour and concentration.
Really deeply coloured. A faint width of clean earth – inviting. Round, just a faint cushioning, but this is a wine of latent, wiry muscle and movement – supple, never fat, modestly complex and interesting. Very fine Charmes…
2017 Labruyere-Prieur, Pouilly-Fuissé
Racked with lees, now in tank for bottling in December. Old vines in Fuissé, without too much volume – happy to have this contract since 2014.
A forward and very attractive nose, faintly sherbet. Volume, energy, fine fruit – what more could you want? – this is both completely delicious and serious – not too serious to drink though. Excellent!
Vines behind the domaine buildings in Meursault – roughly 1 hectare that’s effectively across the road from the Clos de la Barre – but still 50m away given the buildings. Also racked with lees – just before the harvest – now in tank – was foudres and barrels for elevage.
Hmm – a nice, modestly agrume width of fruit aroma. Some gas. Volume, a wine that’s even more delicious than the last – there’s energy and freshness, and still a deliciously agrumed flavour profile. Bravo!
2017 Beaune 1er Les Grèves Blanc
0.53 hectares, 2009 was first vintage after replanting from red. Currently still in barrel
A narrower but finely precise nose, again agrume style fruit. More intense, a hint more complex with barrels and herbs and many things – more compact but with a different extra-pure style of presentation. Not more delicious than the Bourgogne today, despite having more of everything – it needs more elevage and there’s clearly lots of potential.
2016 Beaune 1er Clos de la Feguine
Planted in 1993. Direct south-facing so doesn’t get the direct first sun.
An extra openness to the nose – fresh and agrumed. Energy, volume, still that touch of herb today, but this is delicious if still with a hint of rigour. Complex and just yum with a great finish. So yum…
2017 Beaune 1er Champs Piments
Chardonnay also at the top of this vineyard. A soil with a lot of white clay which could be compared to Charlemagne. Prieur have 3 hectares here, 1.19 hectares of white, with a majority of the elevage in foudres.
Narrower aromatic but of depth and a little bubble of freshness above. Rounder, more composed, but no lack of energy and interest here – slowly discovering new things. It’s more contemplative but I find this a beauty – so good – it holds my interest with ease…
2016 Meursault Clos du Mazeray
A parcel, just below Gouttes d’Or, a 3ha parcel, some red planted here too. Part vinified in foudres and barrel. This is racked so not bright. Probably for bottling in January or February.
Hmm – such an inviting nose; Meursault plus agrume. Round but fresh and energetic – there is a structural difference to the Bourgogne and the Beaunes – this is proper Meursault and highly drinkable wine – excellent. ‘Crisp’ says Nadine…
All the following vines are still in barrel:
From Pitures, next to d’Angerville. The vines were planted in 2000, 0.80 hectares.
A good volume of aroma, agrume and a faint but attractive bitter note that brings. Some gas so there’s more volume, but here is a sucrosity and deliciousness of fruit combined with a certain tension that would have me ordering magnums. Clean, faintly spiced finishing flavour. Bravo – but only in magnums. Like a Puligny with the spice of Meursault…
A nose of volume and a certain hard quality today – lemon zest and pips in evidence. A modest impression of reduction on the palate – hence the pips – but this wine has flavour that is mobile and complex, beautifully delivered. More elevage needed but great indeed ‘wow’ wine in preparation…
1.497 hectares. A very sunny a vineyard that is one of the first to be harvested – ‘The maturity comes quickly and then its time of go.
Wide, more an aroma that brings an attractively sizzling impression – faint agrume, faint oak too. Volume, such volume, minerality but accented with delicious agrume fruit. Great finish – really great – mineral, accented with multiples of complexity in the finish. Buy what you can, you needn’t be seduced by the name Meursault-Perrières – here is everything that you could wish for…
Here 0.1365 hectares. Most south and high section of Chevalier – close to Dents du Chien (of Chassagne)
A tighter and more considered, more serious nose. Ooh – volume, concentration, this will take time to unfurl – mineral at the base, reflections of citrus – there is everything here, but this wine holds its cards close to its chest. Shape, concentration, purity, all excellent – we will have to wait to enjoy. Plenty of finishing volume, tenacious flavour. One day…
From 2 parcels, one classic hillside and the other by Dents du Chien – forming 0.586 ha. It wont be bottled before June…
Ooh – this nose – not yet full power, but you can find everything. There is a line of flavour here, almost a grain of tannin too, a wine that needs so much time to unfurl, it’s not the biggest finish, but it’s the most tenacious, also a baby, showing just a little more than the Chevalier, but with a certain austerity . Again, one day…
0.22 hectares near Ladoix, next to the vines of Lalou. Plain east facing with a very white soil, high on the hill under the trees.
Hmm, there’s a certain silk to this nose, but an agrumed, mineral intensity too. Hmm – attack – intense, complex, ever-changing flavour. There is more dimension evident in this wine today a more chiselled and focused delivery of flavour. It’s ‘simply’ another great wine in the selection here. Again, with a hint of tannin.