Tasted in Puligny-Montrachet with Jacques Carillon, 02 October 2018.
Domaine Jacques Carillon
1 Impasse Drouhin
Tel: +33 3 80 21 01 30
Jacques on 2018:
Well, I’m warming the cellar a little as all the 2018s are now in barrel. We saw 350mm here in Puligny up to April, but also more than 30°C at the end of April – but then almost frost during the first week of May, followed by days of consecutive storms followed by more nicely spaced, regular, rain. But the wines will be round as it was very warm. I started harvesting the 28 August versus the 1st September in 2017.
Jacques on 2017:
“2017 is not bad! We had a good harvest in the villages and red – the white 1ers lost a little due to coulure and millerandes – maybe we had 25% less because of that, but not more. I’m happy with that. We started harvesting after the big rain – I preferred to harvest in 18 degrees vs 35°! Some vines gave more than in 2016, others less, we made more villages but less 1er as the flowering was less good there, as the vines had some thirst. I think it’s a good and balanced vintage, it’s variable, but not in a bad sense – with a style in-between 2015 and 2016.”
Bottling after 18 months normally. Jacques is currently testing DIAM in his villages cuvées.
Very good wines at this address, which do a good job of reflecting both the vintage and their plots. It seems that I always lean towards the same two wine as my picks – The Puligny Perrières and the Bienvenues! Very nice to check back in on the 2016s too!
As every year, three discreet Pulignys wait in tank – usually they will be blended into a single cuvée. They are the result of the harvest in 7 lieu dits, the vines more on the Meursault side of Puligny.
2017 Puligny-Montrachet Cuvée #1
There are three villages cuvées, all with separate elevage, here the first: The parcels are picked more by maturity than location. The wines are racked from barrel into tank before the harvest.
Fresh, open, a hint of sulfur but flowers too. Wide, fresh, nicely mobile and growing in intensity and faint salinity. There’s a nice line of flavour here.
2017 Puligny-Montrachet Cuvée #2
An almost identical nose. Modest gas a little more volume and more mouth-watering, a great line here again, first two don’t have the weight of the Leflaive (tasted just before) but show more line and are a little more mouth-watering.
2017 Puligny-Montrachet Cuvée #3
Again the nose is essentially the same. Hmm, a little more mineral, perhaps touched by reduction, long – excellent flavour.
Planted in 2013 – in 2016 there was none due to frost – before this parcels was planted to red. Vines on the plain below the Château de Chassagne-Montrachet
A little bit fuller nose with more yellow fruit. Wider, more muscle, less definition but more melting flavour. Delicious – super for such young vines.
2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Macherelles
A squeeky-clean nose, attractive, with some yellow fruit. Extra depth of concentration and a silky texture too. This is more contemplative in style but balanced and growing in very tasty flavour – rich and round but beautifully balanced and long too.
2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Champs Canet
Higher toned freshness of aroma, nicely round. Rounder in the mouth but a little more energy – more flattering, deliciously tasty wine, slowly mouth-watering. Generous of flavour but not full – simply delicious.
Good width of aroma, less depth initially but cushioned and inviting. Hmm, more incisive, of line and purity, slowly melting and mouth-watering over the palate. Mineral and excellent – bravo!
2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Referts
A little more discrete and airy aromatic – faint yellow-skinned fruit. The incisive character of the last but rounder and more mouth-filling, still very mineral – almost sinewy strength. Fine texture, a really beautiful wine, a little more contemplative but really top and long finishing…
Lost a little less than 60% to the frost in 2016, back to normal in this vintage.
Ooh, nice, a hint of agrume reduction, growing volume of aroma too. Ooh – super – pure, growing in intensity, layered, complex, great wine.
As we are here, why not take a look at the 2016s?
The 2016 harvest didn’t start until 23 September:
7 lieu-dits, 9 parcels, 2.7 ha.
Almost a tropical nose after the 17s. The palate is full but also full of energy – ripe, complex and expressive – I much prefer the style of the 17(s) but there is fine minerality here.
2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Macherelles
Has a round nose with a hint of reduction. Ooh that’s a nice line of mineral, concentrated flavour. Long, not directly as sweet as the 17 but a very complex in the finish – super!
2016 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Champs Canet
More open, fresh, yellow-fruited nose – very fine. Deep, round, mineral wine. A little more sucrosity here, concentrated, only slowly melting over the palate – carafe this. Very good!
An open and attractive nose. Direct, fine of texture, modest but attractive sucrosity, of beautiful line, ooh this is good! – Less overtly needing the carafe but it will still benefit – silky, weighted – a great 2016!
2016 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Referts
Less width but a nice vibration of aroma in the depth. More mineral great line, harder to taste today, wait, but the complexity is really fine in the middle and finish. Wait for this maybe 3-5 years. Excellent.
A big nose, slightly floral, lots of fine complexity here. Direct, concentrated, fresh, layered, beautifully defined, mineral, good texture – I could go on! It has more of everything but is completely balanced – you shouldn’t touch one for 5 years – great wine!