François Mikulski – 2017


Tasted in Meursault with François Mikulski, (pictured with son-in-law Thomas Bocon) 24 October 2018.

François Mikulski Earl  
7 Route Nationale 74
21190 Meursault
Tel: +33 3 80 21 25 11

François on 2018:
2018 – evidently a dry and hot summer – we started the 25 August – which diminished the malic acid but concentrated the tartaric so the wines that have finished their malos have a good acidity – it’s similar to 2003 but with double the volume of grapes. There’s a certain richness and charm. There’s more white volume than in 2017 but not red, maybe 15% less red.

François on 2017:
We began the harvest 30 August in 2017, and I’m happy with 2017. We lost a little of our bourgogne from the plain – that was the frost – but it was limited to the vines in the plain. In terms of yields we are little below the maximums for the appellations. The reds, in general, seem to have more yield than the whites – but the most important thing was that all were ripe! I think that the vintage really respects the terroirs this year.

The wines…

Wines that started well enough, but just got better and better as we worked our way through the range this year – some great bottles await – and this year you might even be able to buy some!

Nothing has been bottled so far:

2017 Bourgogne Rouge Côte d’Or
Hmm, bright, concentrated and fresh – supple, great concentration – absolutely delicious. Bravo!

2017 Pommard
Tighter but still fine fruit on the nose. Good volume, more structure, more complex, a barrel note that’s almost a little fumé

2017 Volnay 1er Santenots du Milieu
Racked in August and then in tank so can do harvest in peace, will probably start bottling in January but the wine will determine the exact timing. Had about 3x than in 2016, a little less in 18
A fine, fresh, deep nose – not so wide. Supple, round, deep-flavoured wine. Layered flavour – unctuous yet fresh – this is sumptuously delicious. Yes! No fumé

There’s no Meursault Caillerets in 2017 but there’s 300 litres in 2018!

Les blancs…

2017 Bourgogne Aligote
Lost some harvest – 10 hl/ha was the result after frost
Deep but freshly floral – very attractive. Round, supple, layered tasty wine – ooh this is also, like the Santenots, sumptuous, decadent stuff.

2017 Bourgogne Chardonnay Côte d’Or
All in the commune of Meursault – from all sides of the village.
Also a concentrated nose, sleeker. Full, layered, concentrated wine. Enough energy to carry the wine’s slowly melting flavour. Mineral finishing

2017 St.Aubin
Bought the grapes but did the harvest
A narrower but fine, fresh and quite deep nose. Supple, a certain richness of flavour but a complexity and dimension of flavour too. A wine that’s really impressive in the mid-palate and finish.

2017 Meursault
Mainly Pellans but 3-4 other small parcels too. ‘There are several other villages samples that may or may not be incorporated – I will decide next week’
Modest volume but classic nose. Round, supple but fresh and layered at the same time. Fine vibrancy of finishing flavour. Quite super.

2017 Meursault Tillets
Very young vines, 2nd vintage not yet decided if separated, right under the forest.
A tighter nose. Big, bright, energetic, plenty of volume plenty of sucrosity. A little easy in the finish but a bright young thing

2017 Meursault Meix Chavaux
20% of this is in the village, 25 yo average for the vines
That’s a compact but very attractive nose. Supple, layered wine, – very tasty.

2017 Meursault Le Limozin
A little additional depth of aroma – not so wide. Volume in the mouth but a mix of intensity and energy. This is top – easily my favorite so far.

2017 Meursault 1er Les Poruzots
A wider nose and with some depth of concentration too. Volume and complexity – really much more complexity – I have a slight preference for completeness of the Limozin today but this has so much more detail.

2017 Meursault 1er Aux Charmes
Vines planted in 1930 and 1998 the different parcels, one bottom, the other in the middle of Charmes.
Also not so wide but with a super depth. Vibrant and complex – ooh this is super. At the end of the palate a touch of barrel today but this is super – top Charmes…

2016 Meursault 1er Genevrières
A vibrant nose, slightly reductive. Here there is some power and only slowly the flavours melt in a more complex, nutty finale. Very nice indeed.

And to finish, why not a quick tour of already open 2015s?:

2015 Meursault
The nose is direct but the finish is an absolute honey…

2015 Meursault Meix Chavaux
Hmm, now that’s an inviting nose. Width and complexity and perfume. Hmm, this is wide and delicious, not incisive but balanced and really delicious.

2015 Meursault Limozin
Only two barrels one was new, so there is a little more spice from that on the nose. Layers, really beautifully mouth-watering sucrosity – delicious flavour – bravo.

2015 Meursault 1er Les Poruzots
A very nice floral element in here. Lots of fat to the texture. But bright, mouth-watering delicious flavour.

2015 Meursault 1er Aux Charmes
Brighter in the nose – a little flowers. A little more muscle, honey, lingering flavour. Also delicious but very different.

2017 Meursault 1er Gouttes d’Or
Wider and more floral – hmm that’s good. Fresh. Open, great volume, complex, a touch of minerality – ooh that’s showing great.
2017 Meursault 1er Perrières
Bought like in previous vintages, in must.
A pretty and vibrant clarity of modest reduction. Drive, line, complex, mouth-watering, I’ve previously found this wine good but not quite great here, but this is great!

2017 Meursault 1er Genevrières
A more compact, a less communicative nose today. Wide, engaging, delicious wine – easier, but also very complex after the Perrières, plenty of ginger spice – delicious.

2017 Meursault 1er Aux Charmes 1913
2 barrels
A smoky, firework reduction today. The reduction is seeping into the palate too. Architectural, complex, deliciously so, vibrantly gorgeous finishing – great. I hate it when the last wine is best, I want to be contraire, but mmm…

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

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