Comtes Lafon – 2017


Tasted in Meursault with Dominique Lafon, 23 October, 2018.

Domaine des Comtes Lafon
5 Rue Pierre Joigneaux
21190 Meursault
Tel: +33 3 80 21 22 17

Dominique on 2018:
In 2018 I was worried about mildew, early on. It was a vintage where the growth seemed to keep speeding up. 15 August I made a tour through my vines and I thought that there wasn’t so much wine – I was wrong! The grapes were beautifully clean, though the pHs were ‘average’ but stable – there was also practically no malic acid. I actually started harvesting 1 day before Jean-Marc (Roulot) and all my cuvées were between 12.5° and 13.5°. For the reds we had less volume than in 2017, again very clean grapes, pHs of 3.20-3.35 – in Santenots this is not bad.

Dominique on 2017:
​2017 is a good vintage of whites and a super vintage of reds. They could be the best that I have ever made in red, despite volume like 1999 in some places. The whites are classic from an aroma perspective. Reds have good maturity – not too much, not too dense – I like the balance. Airy wines vs 2015. There was actually less to harvest in 2017 than there was in 2016 in Mâcon, but I find the wines balanced and seductive. I started the 2018 harvest later there than in the Côte d’Or – but there was volume! For my Meursault whites I think that 2016 is more intellectual than 2017, which is currently behind though everything is there, nothing too much. But that might change. I still love the 16s though…​

The wines…

Dominique’s reds are excellent – as to be expected, but the Mâcons are great for the labels – such a great range and not a single where I can point to any accent of oak – such a great range. ​But then there’s the Meursaults – maybe the best cellar of 2017?

2017 Monthelie 1er Duresses
​1.05 hectares. In tank since end of September.
A nice depth of fruit, suggesting flowers too – a good nose. Round, supple, open, fresh and complex. Easy and delicious – lovely in the finish… fine and long…

2017 Volnay
A wine mainly made from the product of young vines from santenots, plus a little Champans too
More colour. Fresh, finer though a less overt nose, faintly spiced. Hmm, finer texture, juicy, waves of flavour with a hint of barrel. Delicious.​

The rest were sampled from barrel, not yet racked:

2017 Volnay 1er Clos des Chênes
​6 barrels in 2017 vs only 2 in 2016.
A more compact, denser nose. Ooh, but vibrant, round, with great intensity – lip-smacking finishing flavour. Delicious again!

2016 Volnay 1er Champans
99 year-old vines.​
Also a compact nose but with a little more width. Wider, fresher wine, more mineral too. A fine and juicy impression here, the fruit style fresher with more energy.​

2016 Volnay 1er Santenots du Milieu
This is a large 3.5 ha plot. A normal result would be 50 barrels – 19 barrels in 2016, 81 in 2017 – wow…
A little more open and certainly a more energetic nose. There’s a faint reduction on the palate, this a wine that’s more mouth-filling. It’s fresh with depth of flavour and an extra cushion of silky texture. Super length. Excellent!​

Les Blancs…
The following wines from Mâcon were bottled before the harvest:

2017 Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, Mâcon-Prissé
A nicely vibrant nose. Round, but depth and vibrancy of flavour – lovely wine, modest length but very tasty…

2017 Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, Mâcon-Milly Lamartine
A fresh width of aroma. Extra clarity and drive – juicily delicious with a suggestion of minerality. Mouth watering in the finish…

2017 Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, Mâcon-Uchizy Les Maranches
A little more depth of aroma, vibrant again, lots of volume and energy, hmm – so good! Really persistent… really delicious…

2017 Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, Mâcon-Chardonnay Clos de la Crochette
Good width, deeper, denser aroma. Hmm, more depth of flavour once more. Mouth-watering flavour, faintly reductive style, insinuating, delicious wine – bravo!
2017 Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, Mâcon-Milly Lamartine, Clos du Four
Fresher and with a little floral accent. Hmm. More melting, chiselled flavour. Juicily finishing with a density of finishing flavour, long, energetic delicious, bravo wine…
2017 Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, Viré-Clessé
A denser nose. Bright, mineral, depth – such an impressive depth. Mineral, sleek, beautiful wine, no overt oak in any of these. An extra something in the finish – really something.

2017 Meursault
This in tank.
This has a big nose, very Meursault, round, energetic, modestly mineral, immodestly, complex and flavourful, round too! Excellent!​

2017 Meursault Desirée
​0.5 hectare
An extra vibrance of aroma. And on the palate too – vibrant, complex, growing in intensity, growing in waves of flavour, round, perfumed, bravo!
2017 Meursault Clos de la Barre
The vines here now average about 70 years old.​
Narrow top notes, growing in width in the middle. More direct, fine, complex, modestly mineral, wider and wider, so persistent. Fabulous. I want another sip!

2017 Meursault 1er Bouchères
Back to tank, the last was from barrel.
A modest but interesting mose. The palate is far broader and more complex, super wide, but I personally prefer the shape and delivery of the last – but the finish here is great…

2017 Meursault 1er Goutte d’Or
Ooh, now thats a perfect, round but fresh Meursault. A hint of gas, but mouth-watering wine, growing in intensity, strict structure but tension from a great wine
2017 Meursault 1er Porusots
‘This is the transition between northern and southern 1ers of Meursault’
A completely different register of fresh, intense fruit. Line, but energy too – almost a blend of the boucheres and gouttes with a hint extra energy. Also great wine.
2017 Meursault 1er Genevrières
A little extra warmth and width – I could say spice. Supple, concentrated, a touch of salinity, a certain energy in the middle and extra complexity too. Long, long, long, always a favourite here. Seductive wine…

The last two and Perrières, there’s less wine in 2017 than in 2016!
2017 Meursault 1er Charmes
Hmm, this is a round but beautifully inviting nose. Round in the mouth too – lots of volume with a boucheres-plus complexity – just a little more open and more depth, really an impressive depth to this wine – be patient…​

2017 Meursault 1er Perrières
Narrow but pure and deep. A hint of gas, but relaxed muscle, depth, vibrant, just great, simply great!
2017 Le Montrachet
Big, floral, vibrant nose. A big floral, vibrant palate too – no fat, but such depth – unctuous depth and length. Simply another level, today touched by a little barrel…

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