Tasted in Meursault with Romaric Chavey, 21 October 2015.
31 Rue de Mazeray
Tel: +33 3 80 21 61 74
There’s a big extension to the cuverie going on here, at the back of the domaine. There will be 4x the space to work with, and store, the wines. It’s a shame then that they are not allowed to have windows facing the vines, even the colour of the building is mandated – In New-Zealand this would be a brilliant panoramic feature with the vineyards spreading out before your eyes – the view is only over vines to the RN! Apparently, neighbours are ‘Monument Historic’s so it is not allowed!
Romaric on 2015:
“The harvest started on the 29th August, the day after getting back from holiday! All was ripe with a good balance, and not super high degrees; 11.8° for Bourgogne to 13° for Meursault-Charmes. So 60 pickers completed 14 hectares in 5 days. The grapes were warm, the fermentations were quite fast and without much bourbe (fine, solid material). Reds also good, average quantities but nicely clean and balanced.”
Romaric on 2014:
“We lost a large part of the potential harvest due to hail. We made some style changes this year trying to avoid a patisserie element, so I stopped completely battonage which we did 5 or 6 times before. Looking for more vivacity – don’t like acid wines but do like balance and I’m happy with the result, which is less rich.”
I have to admit that on this particular day, the reds were a little unusual, and not to my taste, the Bourgogne blanc too – but the others seemed super.
2014 Bourgogne Les Femelottes
One parcel in the Puligny area of 2 hectares – below the villages vines but also before Route National – so 12 k bottles. 1 additional hectare was planted last year – a new purchase in the same vineyard which was planted with pinot before, so eventually there will be 3 hectares of this. 8 months elevage in 4-5 yo barrels before bottling/assembling. It’s a big cuvée so will be bottled in 2 lots, this from the second bottling, which has been in bottle for 2 weeks.
A high-toned, precise, citrus nose – pretty. Weight a certain roundness. The flavour is interesting, a little like citrus skin, but salted in the finish. Long finishing and tasty here too, the main flavour is a little non-standard it seem to me but not to dislike.
Mainly the rest of these saw 11 months in barrel and then time in tank before the bottling.
2014 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignieres
A more overt, fresh, but ripe lemon fruit of fine clarity and depth. Fuller, silkier, finely balanced, a little lemon skin again, this is a nice wine, rather young I would say, but with great potential.
From just south of Tessons
A fresh, mineral and exciting nose with a depth of green herb edged with modest reduction. Joyous, wide fresh, sweetened leading edge of acidity. A big peak of flavour following in the mp. Nicely textured, this is a super wine.
Not so wide but lovely depth of aroma here – mainly fruit – fresh lemon yellow. Again, joyous acidity and freshness wrapped in a faintly cushioned, silky texture. Lovely finishing flavour.
2014 Meursault 1er Les Charmes
One parcel in the middle of the slope, almost at the limit of the vineyard before Puligny.
A more waxy textured nose, with faint gingerbread below. Actually here is a little more structure and a little more intensity, despite the acidity being more wrapped in concentration. Very good structure and flavour here. A little mineral, almost salted burst of finishing flavour accented with a little dry extract. Very fine!
2014 Meursault Clos des Corvées de Citeaux
A fuller, slightly savoury nose, a hint less exciting. Unlike the nose the texture and freshness are very nice indeed, here like the early wines is something that reminds me of citrus skin in the flavour – its not my favourite but I don’t expect that it will be everlasting. A nice finish again, holding a fine line of good flavour. Less overt energy vs a couple here, but well-balanced all the same.
2014 Bourgogne Rouge La Taupe
Just across the RN74 road behind the wall of Château Pommard. Old vines of small yield but concentration. 70 year-old vines. Fully destemmed and only remontage, trying to extract very slowly.
Deep, almost stewed fruit but with a hint of gooseberry – like de Vogue 2010s. Fresh, wide, lithe with only a modest base of tannin, again a little of the flavour from the nose on the palate – stewed fruit, not unlikeable but a bit different.
2014 Pommard 1er Les Chanlins
Next to Volnay at the top of the hill, only modestly hailed in 14 – so lost only 30%. Very steep on white limestone soil.
Again, a deep and concentrated stewing fruit aroma. Wide and concentrated in the mouth, with a lovely intensity of flavour. Not quite sweet, getting bigger after the mid-palate and again holds a good line of finishing flavour. This is a wine to wait for I think. – at least a couple of years for it to become less ‘frank’…