Tasted in Saint Aubin with Olivier Lamy, 09 October, 2014.
Domaine Hubert Lamy
20 rue des Lavières
Tel: +33 3 80 21 32 55+33 3 80 21 32 55
Olivier on the vintages:
“I generally prefer 2013 to 2012 because of the 2013’s balance and energy – it’s more classic for me. 2014 was almost too easy in comparison, though the pinots were a little more fragile and needed lots of triage to avoid contamination with the drosophila’s acetic bacteria.”
Almost everything is now in tank “Just a couple of the grander wines are still in barrel” notes Olivier. Generally the wines see 0-15% new oak, six months in wood then 12 in tank, except the Criots, including a ‘col du poisson’ fining. The malos were mainly finished by July.
Not all the wines were showing on top form today, but those that were, were very special.
2013 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos de la Goujonne
From 65 year-old vines.
Lovely and fresh dark red fruit and a clear Chassagne herby character. There’s some roundness in the mouth and good concentration – this wine holds an excellent intensity in the finish.
Here is a much ‘redder’ nose with nice width – pretty. A softer texture than the Chassagne and fine acidity underneath too – velvet for the tannin. Despite relatively young vines (a mix of 1990 and 2006) this is top-level Santenay with a little saltiness in the finish too.
2013 St.Aubin 1er Derrière Chez Eduard
From 55 year-old vines on a steep slope.
Here is more of a top to bottom (deep to high-tones) aroma with a little fatter red fruit in the middle. Faint gas but very nice red fruit. The tannin makes a little textural drag on the palate rather than grain. Modest intensity in the finish but not lacking in actual length, indeed some minerality here too.
2013 Santenay 1er Clos des Gravières
20% whole cluster used for this wine.
There’s a little reductive note – but the last drops in the glass have gorgeous red fruit that mixes violet flowers too. Fresh in the mouth with a nice weight of high-toned red fruit – fruit that seems to add depth in the finish. Like the last wine, the intensity of finish is modest, but not the length of finish.
2013 Chassagne-Montrachet Le Concis du Champs
“Young vines, only 10 years old, but a fine selection delivering small berries and natural concentration.”
Here is an obvious note of Chassagne herbs but with plenty of freshness. Plenty of gas on the tongue. Lovely mid-palate flavour with some agrumes – grows nicely in intensity – lovely.
2013 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots
A blend of 40 year-old and 70 year-old fruit – more 40…
High-toned, pretty fruit – ripe but not heavy. Lovely energy and nicely mineral-infused fruit. Here is a good finish too. Yum!
2013 Santenay 1er Clos des Gravières Blanc
Very young vines in a sort of continuation of the Clos de Tavannes.
The nose is fresh, but seems to have an extra cushioned dimension to the aroma. Silky, concentrated and very faintly padded – the flavour holds very nicely.
2013 St.Aubin 1er Clos du Meix
Fresh with a faint agrumes reduction. A little gas but it doesn’t obscure lovely intensity on the tongue. Insinuating flavour with a growing intensity after you finish your mouthful. Excellent!
More depth, intensity and ripeness – but completely fresh. Super width of flavour with an added mineral dimension – this is super! I love the mouth-watering finishing note.
Also fresh with a hint of agrumes. Lovely intense, round but mouth-watering flavour. An after-shock of flavour too – super!
2013 St.Aubin Clos de la Chatenière
Wide and high-toned with both citrus and floral hints. Lovely intensity again – lovely energy too. There’s a little gas but it doesn’t seem to compromise (increase) the intensity. Yum!
Wines now tasted from barrel rather than tank…
2013 St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents du Chien
Smooth, ripe, yellow fruit with a faintly herbed top-note. Silky and mouth-watering – extra long. Certainly this is much more contemplative than the En Remilly today, showing much less dynamism. Lovely all the same.
2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Macherelles
Faint reduction and green-skinned fruit. Gas and a little reductive flavour too. Lovely, transparent complexity in the mid-palate though. Mouth-watering and ultimately fine Chassagne!
2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Chaumées
More Chassagne herb – but not overdone. The palate is more intense and has more depth too – similarly transparent mid-palate as the Macherelles where lovely intensity is also to be found.
2013 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Haute Densité
A modest but fine, fresh nose. The palate is round but clearly displays both intensity and precision of flavour – super focus to the flavours – there are good, sharp fruit references here in the mid-palate. A fine diminuendo for length. Really super wine.
Fresh aromas with good intensity – very finely presented. More concentration, really super intensity and holding a great line of flavour into the finish. Just great wine!
2013 Criots-Bâtard Montrachet
Also a section of this grand cru is now planted at high density – 24 thousand vines per hectare!
After the previous wines it’s almost surprising to find even more intensity of aroma, here the fruit just a little riper showing. Lithe and intense, the flavour follows a very direct line into the finish – faintly soft, extra long!