Tasted in Meursault 01 October 2014, with François Mikulski.
Mikulski on 2014:
In 2014, like in 2012 and 2013, there is no Meursault Caillerets red. Typically François has enough for 1 barrel, but not in these vintages. Of his 4 white Meursault premier crus, 3 were hailed so came in with 20-25 hl/ha, the fourth – Meursault Charmes – came in closer to 45 hl/ha. François described the grapes from the hail-free sections as ‘magnificent’ but had to suffer just 15 hl/ha from his plot of Volnay Santenots.
It may have been a ‘flower day’ but aromatically the wines were very tight in this cellar today. No-problem, they tasted fine. The reds have beautiful fruit and freshness. The ‘entry’ whites are very tasty too, but for real fireworks you have to wait for the Poruzots and higher – super wines!
2013 Bourgogne Rouge
Bottled just before harvest.
Here is a lovely, bright red fruit with a faint malic aroma. Kind and friendly in the mouth – yet detailed and with bright acidity. Good finishing intensity too – yum!
2013 Volnay 1er Les Santenots
Only 12 hl/ha. Already bottled – François noting “I wanted to imprison the fruit.”
The nose offers beautiful red fruit – more raspberry than cherry. Beautiful, fresh red fruit flavour too – and of depth. Much more intense and concentrated versus the Bourgogne. A width of red fruit in the mid-palate with some density. It really makes me want to take another sip…
2013 Bourgogne Aligoté
Also bottled. Produced from just 20 hl/ha – the same as in 2012
There’s quite a good width of aroma with some richness of ripe fruit. Good weight in the mouth, not facile, and with a mineral element towards the finish. Highly drinkable.
2013 Bourgogne Chardonnay
A very modest nose today – faint high tones, only. Very good intensity and an understated richness though super acidity too – a very yum combination.
Also modest of aroma, though with a more spiced undertow. Rich, dense but with perfectly balanced acidity. Very nice wine indeed.
2013 Meursault Poruzots
More high tones over a dense core, some sweeter elements too. Wider and more dynamic in the mouth – lots of interest and good intensity in the mid-palate too. Yum! “Generous but still with tension” notes François – I can’t argue with that!
2013 Meursault 1er Gouttes d’Or
Modest but wide nose that’s fresh and slightly floral. Round with lovely acid-etched fruit and a super extra dimension of intensity in the mid-palate. Slowly, slowly fading. Yum!
Wide and faintly cushioned aromas, some fresher tones too. Super clarity in the mouth and growing intensity too – indeed, super, balanced intensity. I love this.
More green fruit on the nose and a faint reduction too. Wider across the tongue with a little CO2 too. There’s more intensity and acidity versus the Charmes – but density too. Wow wine – super!
Obviously a special anniversary for these vines – François is not yet sure how he might mark/label this vintage. One demi-muid – but that’s better than in 2012 when there was no cuvée…
Another rather modest nose but one that bestows a clarity of ripe fruit. Dense and rich, but one that’s full of interesting, ripe fruit and a little spice – always perfectly balanced with the acidity. This ‘super-Charmes’ has very special length. Highly covetable wine.
And from the last vintage:
There are high tones and dried fruits on the nose. Width a cross the tongue and good balancing acidity. A lovely extra intensity to the flavour in the mid-palate and still after you swallow. Super!
Green fruit mixes with faint herb aromas. Full, round and intense. Lovely acidity that’s sweet and flowing – Chablis-style. I would (love to!) drink this any day.
A sweetness of fruit on the nose but all nicely focused. Here is the tasty acidity of the Charmes but tweaked up a small notch. Super flavour intensity and engagement. Brilliant!