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Comtes Lafon – 2013

lafonTasted in Meursault with Dominique Lafon, 23 October, 2014.

Domaine des Comtes Lafon
5 Rue Pierre Joigneaux
21190 Meursault
Tel: +33 3 80 21 22 17+33 3 80 21 22 17
www.comtes-lafon.fr

Mainly, Dominique’s quotes on 2013 yields, et cetera, are to be found through-out the notes.

The wines…

Plenty of long and sometimes troublesome malos – new barrels went through normally, 2nd and 3rd vintage barrels were often reluctant to start. Some whites were racked together in the summer to get those malos going – one or two were still not complete when I visited. Bottling of the reds will be quite late – probably the Monthelie first in the Spring, the others will wait.

Overall, the tardiness of the elevage showed, there were few wines in the cellar that gave more than glimpses of future glory. Overall, there is the requisite intensity and freshness, but it was often hard to discern shape.

2013 Monthelie 1er Les Duresses
The only 2013 in the cellar that had ‘correct’ yields – ~40hl/ha.
The nose jumps with pretty red fruit and shows a nicely penetrating flavour. Lovely length too. This is a wine I often buy and this vintage it’s very fine.

2013 Volnay 1er Clos des Chênes
Normal production here is about 6 barrels. Just 2.5 barrels in 2013, at least that was better than the 1.5 barrels in 2012, where Dominique bottled the whole production in magnums.
There’s a faint reduction on the nose. The palate, however, shows a beautiful clarity, if a little gas. A wine of detail and length – really super!

2013 Volnay 1er Champans
Here there is more aromatic depth, and despite a faint reduction the fruit behind is beguiling. Despite some gas, the detail of the palate is plain to see, as is the concentration. Beautiful wine.

2013 Volnay 1er Santenots du Milieu
This is a large 3.5 ha plot, but it yielded just 32 barrels in 2013 – up from 27 in 2012. The normal result would be 50 barrels, a high yielding vintage can deliver 70!
I find plenty of gas here so a full note makes no sense, but there are very fine flavours behind.

2012 Volnay 1er Champans
This was bottled in June.
The nose is massive, quite dense but still approachable with fruit and flowers. Round, concentrated but balanced. There’s really super mid-palate flavour here. Direct impression after swallowing – stones and dry extract. Something of a monument!

2012 Volnay 1er Santenots du Milieu
Darker, full concentrated nose. There’s more dry material on the palate, tannin too. A longer flavour but also narrower than the Champans. This wine has a completely different shape.

2011 Volnay 1er Santenots de Milieu
“One of my favourites I ever made,” says the man!
The nose is round with both fine width and depth. In the mouth this is full and round with really tons of material – plenty of ripe tannin adds some texture. Long finishing…

2004 Volnay 1er Champans
Dominique notes that the vines were 80 years-old at that time and despite a little hail, delivered grapes with high degrees of alcohol.
The first sniff is gorgeous – but young! Bright and fresh, full and round. This is very tasty and sweet with a faint chocolate aroma developing with time in the glass. Very good!

Les Blancs…

2013 Meursault
From multiple parcels.
Perfect if modest, pretty Meursault nose. Soft entry, growing acidity and width – but a persistent width that lasts and lasts.

2013 Meursault Desirée
Here are slightly higher tones. Silkier in the mouth with more intensity too. Silky texture and perfumed flavour. A beauty.

2013 Meursault Clos de la Barre
The vines here now average about 70 years old.
The nose here is also perfumed but augmented with a little more stone fruit. Here is quite some width and real mid-palate interest. Lovely length…

2013 Meursault 1er Bouchères
Quite floral, but some malo aroma and flavour – as you’ve guessed, it’s not quite finished.

2013 Meursault 1er Goutte d’Or
A faint note of SO2, but a wide and clear Meursault nose with plenty of freshness. Very faint gas on the palate but very fine clarity of flavour and a slowly growing intensity. Even a faint impression of tannin in the finish.

2013 Meursault 1er Porusots
Just the third year for this wine here.
More fresh, though also less focus – but clearly Meursault once-more. Again, clarity is the watchword, this time with simply wonderful acidity – almost Chablis-style with a little salinity. Superb!

2013 Meursault 1er Genevrières
This nose is rounder and very perfumed – beautiful! In the mouth, again, fine clarity and a beautiful peak of flavour in the mid-palate. “Not the best, but the tastiest” says Dominique, maybe but I prefer Porusots, so far…

2013 Meursault 1er Charmes
These are the last vines in Charmes – their neighbours are the Puligny Combettes of Sauzet.
Fuller and rounder aromas – pretty classic Meursault. Rounder, once more with perfect clarity and finishing with a faint tannin. Super.

2013 Meursault 1er Perrières
Despite owning 1 hectare, 2013 produced just 10 barrels.
The nose has more impact, and is a little harder, but maybe there’s a bit of SO2 in the mix too. Wider and certainly much more energy than the Charmes in the mouth.

2013 Montrachet
The nose is clearly unfinished with a little toast and reduction. In the mouth this is very mineral and narrow, but widens and widens – ouf! – the mid-palate and finish are brilliant and certainly not brutal. Half-finished, half-brilliant.

2012 Meursault Clos de la Barre
Here is a wide and concentrated aromatic – it’s very forward. The palate reflects the nose – super concentrated and powerful. Also super long. Less easy after the 13s…

2012 Meursault 1er Charmes
Chatting – oops – no note. How unprofessional!

2011 Meursault 1er Perrières
Wide and interesting aromas with a faintly savoury element. Round in shape and holds a good and strong note to the finish.

2010 Meursault 1er Perrières
My most favourite Perrières – crystal-pure,” says Dominique, “I don’t know if I’ll ever make it so good again.”
A wide and detailed aromatic which underneath is quite round and seemingly textured. Here is concentration and weight – but intensity too. Oh and yes, clarity. A super extra dimension after swallowing – great finish plus a reprise!

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?