Tasted in Chassagne-Montrachet with Alex Moreau, 24 October, 2014.
Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils
21 Route de Santenay
21190 Chassagne-Montrachet
Tel: +33 3 80 21 33 70
+33 3 80 21 33 70
Alex on 2013:
“In 2012 we lost 50%, but 2013 is a little better but very up and down; it is really a parcel-by-parcel approach because all are very different. It’s a surprising vintage, given that the growing season was so difficult, a little direct but with a fine middle and finish. The 13s flatter a little, but there’s no doubt that the terroir is very well-defined.
“Unfortunately there’s a real lack of wine, and when wine is short the négoce prices rise – just like any commodity.”
The wines…
Some wines – such as the Bourgogne and St.Aubin were bottled just before the harvest – the majority of the rest are now in tank except for the grand crus.
2013 Bourgogne Chardonnay
A wide and faintly phenolic nose, SO2, maybe the phenolic is dragging that out. Wide and a little round. Slowly the detail, intensity and interest comes to the fore – there’s really fine flavour on the tongue here – it’s surprisingly long-lasting too.
2013 St.Aubin 1er En Remilly
A wide and fresh nose that’s also phenolic and stony. More clarity and a fine freshness in the mouth – lots of energy too – I find a ‘brightness of intensity’ in the finish. A wine that’s more fruit-driven than the Bourgogne.
2013 Chassagne-Montrachet
A very important cuvée for the domaine – accounting fully for 30% of their production. It’s already in tank and ‘basically finished’ says Alex.
The nose is faintly sweet but also a little dumb. Just a little gas on the palate but again fine clarity and transparency – then there’s a peak of flavour – lovely. Seemingly less demanding of the drinker than the St.Aubin!
More depth and a silky aromatic – concentrated, slightly warm lemon fruit. Rather more gas on the palate but roll the wine around your mouth and wait – if you can – an extra dimension of flavour vs the villages is clear – depth of flavour too. Gorgeous!
2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Chenevottes
The aromas seem stonier, augmented with a nice floral anecdote. More direct and mineral with a growing intensity. Slowly the extra 1er cru flavour dimension is visible. A fine peak of fresh flavour too – yum!
2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er La Maltroye
‘This wine is always a mix if intensity and directness’ says Alex.
A mix of ripe yellow and green citrus. Fuller yet also very mineral – lovely width and transparency. There are fresh beacons of fruit in the mid-palate – a wine that’s faintly tannic finishing. Yum!
2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Morgeot
From 2 parcels – La Cardeuse and Farendes.
A wide, silky and faintly lemon nose – wow! Faint CO2 on the tongue but POW! intense, energetic and obviously mineral – it’s hard to keep it in your mouth. Good follow-up flavour digs into the tongue. I’m not sure if this is the longest finishing, but it’s definitely the most explosive so far!
The aroma is more direct with a little herb and seeming silkiness. Rounder, larger at the start and a slowly emerging intensity on the tongue. Very fine and detailed wine, again with a faint trace of tannic texture in the finish. Delightful wine with more delicacy than the Morgeot.
2013 Bâtard-Montrachet
Purchased as grapes, tasted from barrel.
The wine is cloudy, hence a little lees aroma – but wide and fresh. There’s some CO2 but also waves of flavour, and again some phenolic texture. A fine diminuendo of a length. This is very assured wine!
2013 Chevalier-Montrachet
A cuvée at the domaine since 2010 – bought as must.
The nose is very tight. Wider than the Bâtard, here is weight and perfect balance – a transparent yet haunting (in a good way!) presence. Super-modest, yet super…
Les Rouges…
2013 Bourgogne pinot Noir
Also bottled just before the harvest – the only red bottled so far. All from vines in Chassagne and all barrel elevage – some new.
A nice medium-plus colour. There’s good aromatic depth and a faint meaty note. Wide and quite full in shape – plenty of pinot fruit and a base of ripe, grippy tannin. Very good acidity.
2013 Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles-Vignes
Another shade deeper colour. Fresher, deeper register of fruit and more concentration and depth too. The tannin is faintly grainy and ripe. This is fine-flavoured wine with a very good finish. Yum!
2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er La Cardeuse
Wine still in barrel.
A lovely deep colour. A full and faintly padded nose with some impression of oak too. Silkier, much finer tannin with a faint drag. Lots and lots of flavour dimension and very good length too. The oak is still ever-present, but importantly the wine still tastes great.
2013 Volnay 1er Caillerets
Also still in barrel.
Also a little oak on the nose as on reference in a good density of aromatic. This wine also starts in a silky way, with a fine and growing intensity of fresh fruit. Then the tannin exerts a grip. This is actually very long and will be super. The last drops in the glass show a fine perfume!