Pierre Amiot – two verticals…

Update 31.10.2015(11.10.2015)billn

DSC07929Tasted with the Swiss importer, Alex Nussbaumer via Vinifera-Mundi, in Zürich, 28 September 2015.

Domaine Pierre Amiot et Fils
27 Grande Rue
21220 Morey St.Denis
Tel: +33 3 80 34 34 28
www.domainepierreamiot.fr

Domaine Pierre Amiot is an 8 hectare domaine in Morey St.Denis, run by the father and son team of Jean-Louis (father) and Didier (the son) Amiot. There is a little Gevrey-Chambertin here, Charmes-Chambertin too, but 85% of their 40 parcels of vines lie within the boundaries of Morey.

This is a domaine I’ve not yet visited – though I’m hoping to visit for my 2014 vintage round-up – yet I’ve don’t remember a single wine from this producer that I haven’t thoroughly enjoyed, a few pyrazines and an occasional off-bottle excepted. Now I’m even more interested to visit after this tasting this range of wines.

The wines…

Two whites were a more than fine aperitif to our tasting:

2011 Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er La Romanée
A big, oaky-vanilla nose, a big weight of aroma here, that implies texture. In the mouth this wine is more than rescued by a very fine energy and a much finer texture than the nose suggests. A wine of broad but complex dimension that will get better and better as the oak aromatic fades – though that might take 3+ years.

2008 Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Morgeot La Farendes
Again there seems to be a strong oak accompaniment to the aromas, but here the vanilla component is largely faded, leaving aromas that are a little chalky and fresh. Hmm, it’s like that in the mouth too – just a little more lithe, a lot more energy and a more obvious mineral dimension. Again a rather young wine, for aging, but today I’d certainly drink this in preference to their La Romanée

Vertical #1 – Pierre Amiot, Morey St.Denis 1er Les Ruchots

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The wines of this and the Clos de la Roche flight, were served in threes, the (vintage) identities revealed at the end of each flight. The 2005 excepted, which is clearly of grand cru weight and texture, these are fine middle-weight wines which have an implied elegance and all-round tastiness.

2013 Pierre Amiot, Morey St.Denis 1er Les Ruchots
Here is a big, open nose with a little warm fruit in the middle. Fills the mouth nicely with a bright and fresh character providing plenty of energy. There’s just a little tannic texture but no astringency. A very good persistence of flavour – young but very good!

2012 Pierre Amiot, Morey St.Denis 1er Les Ruchots
A dusty nose (the only wine to show like this) which isn’t so great, but very slowly it adds a little ripe red fruit. Here is a little more energy and a lot more intensity than the last (13) wine. The tannin sits on the palate in a very similar way and there are glimpses of bitter chocolate in the finish. A wine to wait longer for – but a shame about the nose on this bottle.

2010 Pierre Amiot, Morey St.Denis 1er Les Ruchots
A wide, precisely high-toned and very interesting nose. The fruit is more of a smear but it’s never less than inviting. Softer and rounder in the mouth – the tannin is also more cushioned than the last two and there’s a suggestion of vanilla in the mid-palate and into the finish. Overall 3rd place from these three but definitely the best for drinking today. I assumed it was a pyrazine-free 2011, I was surprised it was the 2010, which I think should have been better.

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2009 Pierre Amiot, Morey St.Denis 1er Les Ruchots
The nose has a little heat but also a nice red complexity – just a little muffled, but nice all the same – slowly there’s a floral dimension too, lovely. In the mouth this is round and ripe with layers of flavour. I assume this is the 09 and if so it’s a very good one. Super flavour persistence. Young but can be easily drunk and enjoyed today.

2005 Pierre Amiot, Morey St.Denis 1er Les Ruchots
A little alcoholic heat but also more direct and intense – yet the aromas are more than a little tight – but here is an implied weight. In the mouth this has a very wide panorama of flavour and also is rather weighty with a super-silky texture. Quite a massive wine for a 1er cru with a slowly growing base of tannin that contributes a hint of bitterness in the finish – this grand cru weight and texture must be from 2005? Massively constituted but no brute, despite being a baby. Bravo!
Vertical #2 – It’s Clos de la Roche time!

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You will know why I wasn’t a fan of the 2011, and the 2002 had a problem of some type, but this is a fine producer/cuvée combination with a really high level of consistency. You should note that, in the modern context, the pricing is good too..

2013 Pierre Amiot, Clos de la Roche
This nose is quite silky, showing some weight but a little tightness despite pretty fruit – yet it opens beautifully – padded and lovely. In the mouth this has complexity, energy and quite some lovely intensity and sucrosity. So many things! This is really super wine, indeed excellent wine!

2012 Pierre Amiot, Clos de la Roche
This nose is much more ethereal than the 2013, more complex and mineral too – again a little tightness yet frankly brilliant. Seemingly this is wider and more intense than the last yet without the same direct clarity – otherwise more of everything. A cooler personality and fruit versus 2013 but again a super finish. Not better than 2013 today – just different – but the same very high standard.

2011 Pierre Amiot, Clos de la Roche
It’s clear from the first sniff that this must be the 2011 – round yet airy and fresh but more than a hint of pyrazine. Also round in the mouth but more subdued than the last two. There’s a nice energy in the finish though. I’d mark this higher without the pyrazine note, but it remains a good drink.

2010 Pierre Amiot, Clos de la Roche
Airy and fresh aromas of precision with a lovely floral dimension too. Big and beautiful in the mouth; sleek, sweet flavours with excellent intensity coupled with fine freshness. Super length too – this is really a beauty and my favourite wine of this flight.

2009 Pierre Amiot, Clos de la Roche
A sweeter nose, perhaps with a little patisserie – it’s lovely but I prefer that of the last wine. Also a fine freshness with a more ever-present ripeness and a super sucrosity in the (still) fresh finish. Very yum indeed!

2002 Pierre Amiot, Clos de la Roche
Forward, powerful and deeply perfumed, but from a shop-bought bottle of perfume rather than fruit – it’s rather peculiar – with an old oak element. The note on the nose is also present in the flavours – peculiar wine indeed – yet large-scaled with some mature elements. On one hand impressive, on the other not depending on how faulty you find this – I think faulty…

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

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