Not quite the blast that was part 1 – just over 90 wines – probably fatigue was starting to set in!
Here’s a compendium of wines tasted with producers between the 1st April 2011 and the end of June 2011. They are mainly 2009s – more and more 2010s were tasted, a majority still had too much CO2 to discuss individually, but the character of the reds is starting to come through – a little closer to 08 than 09 but with a better overall balance – few wines have an overt acidity that might frighten the unwary. They look very interesting indeed but you’ll have to wait for the Autumn issue for more – whites too.
Interestingly many producers were electing to let their wines lie unracked in cask for a long time – the grapes were anyway very clean – at least a dozen producers I am aware of were still in no rush to bottle their reds at the end of June 2011, though all were expecting to have bottled by the time time of the harvest.
And the 2009s?
From an initial ‘too friendly for their own good‘ appraisal of 2009 reds I find more and more domaines where the wines have structure and freshness rather than a facile mouthful of ripe fruit. There’s nothing against ripe fruit but in extremis it obscures the delicacy and complexity that a good red Burgundy delivers. In the medium term we are quite safe with this vintage; From the good addresses I might retain a personal preference for 2008 in about 80% of cases – and I certainly wouldn’t pay a premium for 2009 – but long-term I will enjoy both vintages for what they are.
Domaine Marquis d’Angerville (Volnay)
Tasted in Volnay, 17th May 2011 with Guillaume d’Angerville – a lovely summers day…
2009 Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay 1er Clos des Angles
A relatively new wine for the range. There was already some ‘Angles’ but it was part of the Volnay 1er Cru blend – an extra half hectare was bought that released this cuvée. A limited release in some (mainly UK) markets for 2008, but generally for this 2009 vintage. Pretty powdery red fruits on the nose. Just a little textural padding but there’s good structure too to support the long, lingering finish. Very nice indeed.
A relatively new wine for the range. There was already some ‘Angles’ but it was part of the Volnay 1er Cru blend – an extra half hectare was bought that released this cuvée. A limited release in some (mainly UK) markets for 2008, but generally for this 2009 vintage. Pretty powdery red fruits on the nose. Just a little textural padding but there’s good structure too to support the long, lingering finish. Very nice indeed.
2009 Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay 1er Caillerets
The nose is of more compact proportions, but again with pretty red fruits. This time there is a more mineral base followed by an expansion of the flavours in the mid-palate. The most prominent aspect of the finish is its impressive minerality.
The nose is of more compact proportions, but again with pretty red fruits. This time there is a more mineral base followed by an expansion of the flavours in the mid-palate. The most prominent aspect of the finish is its impressive minerality.
2009 Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay 1er Taillepieds
The nose is a little tighter here but shows a subtle floral aromatic. In the mouth this is fuller though also with a good mineral base – once-more with a lovely lift of flavour in the mid-palate. Lovely.
The nose is a little tighter here but shows a subtle floral aromatic. In the mouth this is fuller though also with a good mineral base – once-more with a lovely lift of flavour in the mid-palate. Lovely.
2009 Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay 1er Champans
This has a more floral scent. Stony yet a little less mineral flavour – less padding too – but the flavours are more intense. Just the merest hint of oak texture in the finish just now – it will be gone in 3-6 months. Lovely.
This has a more floral scent. Stony yet a little less mineral flavour – less padding too – but the flavours are more intense. Just the merest hint of oak texture in the finish just now – it will be gone in 3-6 months. Lovely.
2009 Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay 1er Clos des Ducs
The nose is broader and muskier – there are savoury hints too. Full and very silky in the mouth – as you chew the velvet tannin grows. The flavour is as broad as the nose – a wine that stands apart stylistically in this range – yet it’s made exactly the same. Very, very impressive.
The nose is broader and muskier – there are savoury hints too. Full and very silky in the mouth – as you chew the velvet tannin grows. The flavour is as broad as the nose – a wine that stands apart stylistically in this range – yet it’s made exactly the same. Very, very impressive.
Domaine Gilles Bouton (Gamay)
Tasted in Gamay, 11th April 2011. My first visit here; these are more than just ‘competent wines’ and ex-cellar they are rare bargains. Chez Nanson more than half of the first purchase (five cases) is gone!
2009 Gilles Bouton, St.Aubin 1er En Remilly
On the nose there’s density of fruit and some herbs. Full and balanced with lovely intensity.
On the nose there’s density of fruit and some herbs. Full and balanced with lovely intensity.
2009 Gilles Bouton, St.Aubin 1er Murgers des Dents du Chien
The nose has quite subtle oak – a little toasted bread. Lovely freshness in the mouth, again with good intensity and a long, quite stony flavour.
The nose has quite subtle oak – a little toasted bread. Lovely freshness in the mouth, again with good intensity and a long, quite stony flavour.
2009 Gilles Bouton, St.Aubin 1er Le Chatennière
The nose is higher-toned, a ripe core of fruit with some surrounding herbs. Again, clean and fresh flavours of decent intensity – very tasty.
The nose is higher-toned, a ripe core of fruit with some surrounding herbs. Again, clean and fresh flavours of decent intensity – very tasty.
2009 Gilles Bouton, Chassagne-Montrachet
High-toned aromas lined with herbs. Seems less fresh than the St.Aubins – until you reach the intense mid-palate – super.
High-toned aromas lined with herbs. Seems less fresh than the St.Aubins – until you reach the intense mid-palate – super.
2009 Gilles Bouton, Puligny-Montrachet 1er La Garenne
The nose shows complex if slightly dense aromas. Again there’s fine freshness for the vintage – length too. More mineral flavours slowly reveal themselves though to be honest it doesn’t seem such a big jump from the previous wines – it’s understatedly impressive length not-withstanding.
The nose shows complex if slightly dense aromas. Again there’s fine freshness for the vintage – length too. More mineral flavours slowly reveal themselves though to be honest it doesn’t seem such a big jump from the previous wines – it’s understatedly impressive length not-withstanding.
2009 Gilles Bouton, Chassagne-Montrachet (red)
Medium-plus colour. A dark note of coal blends with the fruit. The tannins seem squashable making platelets instead of grains – very good acidity releases mouth-watering fruit flavours. The fruit is quite in the ascendant right now.
Medium-plus colour. A dark note of coal blends with the fruit. The tannins seem squashable making platelets instead of grains – very good acidity releases mouth-watering fruit flavours. The fruit is quite in the ascendant right now.
2008 Gilles Bouton, St.Aubin 1er En Creots (red)
Dark, precise, lovely aromas – yum. Also in the mouth there’s lots of interest; grainy tannins, flavour of agrumes – long lasting and mouth-watering. Another wine on the shopping list!
Dark, precise, lovely aromas – yum. Also in the mouth there’s lots of interest; grainy tannins, flavour of agrumes – long lasting and mouth-watering. Another wine on the shopping list!
2009 Gilles Bouton, Blagny 1er Sous les Puits
Certainly a lesser-spotted wine – but with great merit – to the producer too for not ripping out the vines for more profit; chardonnay equals Puligny-Montrachet here! Very fine red fruit aromas. Full and round. A good concentration of flavour – which seems to keep growing. Super-fine and lovely!
Certainly a lesser-spotted wine – but with great merit – to the producer too for not ripping out the vines for more profit; chardonnay equals Puligny-Montrachet here! Very fine red fruit aromas. Full and round. A good concentration of flavour – which seems to keep growing. Super-fine and lovely!
Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine (Pernand-Vergelesses)
Tasted in Pernand-Vergelesses, 9th April 2011. All bottled and apart from one, all 2008s – and I’m ashamed to admit I did need to buy a wide selection of representative samples for further ‘research’ at home, the reds in a number of cases offering stunningly pure and pretty fruit…
2009 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Bourgogne Aligoté
The nose is quite high-toned for the grape – some apple and pear rather than the more common savoury notes. Full and, actually, rather long finishing – if anything it might e a bit too full, but a good start to the day!
The nose is quite high-toned for the grape – some apple and pear rather than the more common savoury notes. Full and, actually, rather long finishing – if anything it might e a bit too full, but a good start to the day!
2008 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Bourgogne Chardonnay
The nose is more herbal with green-skinned fruit – limes – narrower is aspect after the aligoté. In the mouth again some herbs and the sweet-sour of the vintage – perhaps a bit more of the sour – but on this nice sunny day, refreshing not jarring. I
The nose is more herbal with green-skinned fruit – limes – narrower is aspect after the aligoté. In the mouth again some herbs and the sweet-sour of the vintage – perhaps a bit more of the sour – but on this nice sunny day, refreshing not jarring. I
2008 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Pernand-Vergelesses
Nice and ripe but understated fruit aromas. The palate is the same with lots of clean, steely acidity. Quite Cistercian! For drinking now on a hot sunny day – might get a bit mouth-puckering with time…
Nice and ripe but understated fruit aromas. The palate is the same with lots of clean, steely acidity. Quite Cistercian! For drinking now on a hot sunny day – might get a bit mouth-puckering with time…
2007 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Sous Frétile
There is more aromatic density vs. the villages Pernand. Rounder with excellent texture, more complexity and super length. Looking at the price, what’s not to like(?)
There is more aromatic density vs. the villages Pernand. Rounder with excellent texture, more complexity and super length. Looking at the price, what’s not to like(?)
2007 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Clos Berthet
The nose offers herbs and a slightly warm core of fruit. Full again but really open and right at the end there’s more length than the Sous Frétile.
The nose offers herbs and a slightly warm core of fruit. Full again but really open and right at the end there’s more length than the Sous Frétile.
2008 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Clos Berthet
The aromas are more generous than those of the 07 – enveloping – lovely. Rounder, with seemingly more acidity, no-wonder it also seems more intense. There’s good minerality too – today I’d rather drink this than the 07. Lovely wine.
The aromas are more generous than those of the 07 – enveloping – lovely. Rounder, with seemingly more acidity, no-wonder it also seems more intense. There’s good minerality too – today I’d rather drink this than the 07. Lovely wine.
2008 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Corton-Charlemagne
Thirty percent new oak here. The nose offers-up understated complexity. Not surprisingly this is both fuller and more intense than the 1er Cru. I find it very well proportioned indeed.
Thirty percent new oak here. The nose offers-up understated complexity. Not surprisingly this is both fuller and more intense than the 1er Cru. I find it very well proportioned indeed.
2008 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Clos Berthet (Red)
Lovely, lovely aromas. Supple with fine tannin and flavours that grow in the mouth – good value too.
Lovely, lovely aromas. Supple with fine tannin and flavours that grow in the mouth – good value too.
2008 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Volnay
The aromas focus on delicate red fruits – nice definition. Likewise in the mouth this is a wine of subtlety, delicacy – overall very, very elegant.
The aromas focus on delicate red fruits – nice definition. Likewise in the mouth this is a wine of subtlety, delicacy – overall very, very elegant.
2008 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Pommard
Deeper, more profound fruit on the nose. Fine fruit covers good structure – a very obvious cherry flavour – precociously tasty.
Deeper, more profound fruit on the nose. Fine fruit covers good structure – a very obvious cherry flavour – precociously tasty.
2007 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Les Fichots
The nose offers soft fruits and seems a little textured in its own right. Good intensity of flavour counterpoints a more obvious level of structure than the last wines. Tasty.
The nose offers soft fruits and seems a little textured in its own right. Good intensity of flavour counterpoints a more obvious level of structure than the last wines. Tasty.
2008 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Beaune 1er Cru, Les Montrevenots
Fabulous pure red fruit stops you in your tracks for a second. In the mouth it is fresh but balanced and again there’s a lovely depth of fruit that reflects the nose. Slowly lingering clear flavour – a beauty – lots of this made it home!
Fabulous pure red fruit stops you in your tracks for a second. In the mouth it is fresh but balanced and again there’s a lovely depth of fruit that reflects the nose. Slowly lingering clear flavour – a beauty – lots of this made it home!
2007 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Ile des Vergelesses
A complex nose, a little floral, more depth than the Beaune and with a musky ring around the fruit – lots of character here. Full and round, the tannin has a little more volume but is quite fine leaving a faint astringency. A caramel note suffuses the finish. Just so much to enjoy here – more for my cellar.
A complex nose, a little floral, more depth than the Beaune and with a musky ring around the fruit – lots of character here. Full and round, the tannin has a little more volume but is quite fine leaving a faint astringency. A caramel note suffuses the finish. Just so much to enjoy here – more for my cellar.
There followed a 2008 Pommard Epenots and 2008 Corton Bressandes which (for some reason) I chose to make no notes on – strange as I bought the Epenots but passed on the Bressandes as I had a preference for the last wine, which I also bought…
2008 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Corton Clos du Roi
The nose is a quite lovely blend of flowers and fruit. In the mouth this is round for Corton, intense and subtly complex – yum.
The nose is a quite lovely blend of flowers and fruit. In the mouth this is round for Corton, intense and subtly complex – yum.
Domaine Jean-Nöel Gagnard (Chassagne-Montrachet)
Tasted in Chassagne-Montrachet, 11th April 2011. Apart from a couple of lower appellation wines (which were bottled sooner) all these wines were bottled between February and March 2011.
2009 Jean-Nöel Gagnard, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune
Already bottled way back in August – only 123 months elevages with about one-third new oak. There’s a hint of oak wrapped up in a little reduction. Slowly opens but never fully showed its potential while I was shortly with the glass.
Already bottled way back in August – only 123 months elevages with about one-third new oak. There’s a hint of oak wrapped up in a little reduction. Slowly opens but never fully showed its potential while I was shortly with the glass.
2009 Jean-Nöel Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet Les Charmes
A mid-December bottling. Understated faint herbs on the nose. After the Bourgogne this has a good extra dimension of fruit in mouth – shows much more intensity in the mid-palate. Nice.
A mid-December bottling. Understated faint herbs on the nose. After the Bourgogne this has a good extra dimension of fruit in mouth – shows much more intensity in the mid-palate. Nice.
2009 Jean-Nöel Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Chevenottes
Lovely Chassagne character here. The flavours are a little linear but hold lovely freshness. There’s some minerality and a little herb in the flavour too. Good wine.
Lovely Chassagne character here. The flavours are a little linear but hold lovely freshness. There’s some minerality and a little herb in the flavour too. Good wine.
2009 Jean-Nöel Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Chaumées
After the Chevenottes this fuller and rounder – it’s very silky. Good balance and has a wider and slightly richer finish.
After the Chevenottes this fuller and rounder – it’s very silky. Good balance and has a wider and slightly richer finish.
2009 Jean-Nöel Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Champsgains
Faint herbs on the nose.. In the mouth there’s a dense impression of flavour that only very slowly decays – yet there is fine if understated acidity. Just a little full today, perhaps because it’s only been in bottle for a few days.
Faint herbs on the nose.. In the mouth there’s a dense impression of flavour that only very slowly decays – yet there is fine if understated acidity. Just a little full today, perhaps because it’s only been in bottle for a few days.
2009 Jean-Nöel Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos de la Maltroye
A tiny amount of sulfur on the nose. In the mouth this both mineral and intense – and has a lovely, lingering acidity. Joyous!
A tiny amount of sulfur on the nose. In the mouth this both mineral and intense – and has a lovely, lingering acidity. Joyous!
2009 Jean-Nöel Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Blanchots Dessus
The nose is a little more generous than the previous wines. In the mouth it’s more complex than the preceding wines with flavour that grows in the mid-palate and is very long lasting.
The nose is a little more generous than the previous wines. In the mouth it’s more complex than the preceding wines with flavour that grows in the mid-palate and is very long lasting.
2009 Jean-Nöel Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Morgeots
Denser aromas of pure Chassagne. Wide and full of flavour. The flavour grows more intense in the mid-palate – lovely!
Denser aromas of pure Chassagne. Wide and full of flavour. The flavour grows more intense in the mid-palate – lovely!
2009 Jean-Nöel Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Caillerets
The nose is more detailed with that background of Chassagne herbs. Lovely freshness – wide yet very mineral. Super-intense. I find this absolutely lovely!
The nose is more detailed with that background of Chassagne herbs. Lovely freshness – wide yet very mineral. Super-intense. I find this absolutely lovely!
2009 Jean-Nöel Gagnard, Bâtard-Montrachet
Fuller on the nose – there’s quite some authority here. There is more gras but this is far from a heavy Bâtard. Flavour ingrains in your palate – the more you want, the more you get, it’s just a matter of how long you can keep it in your mouth. This wine is very impressive indeed.
Fuller on the nose – there’s quite some authority here. There is more gras but this is far from a heavy Bâtard. Flavour ingrains in your palate – the more you want, the more you get, it’s just a matter of how long you can keep it in your mouth. This wine is very impressive indeed.
2009 Jean-Nöel Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet Cuvée l’Estimé
There is a core of dense and dark red fruit on the nose – with flashes of pure cherry. The flavour builds and builds; the tannin has a slight ‘grab’ but almost no astringency – this will be a super-ebulient wine in it’s youth, but perhaps wait another six months.
There is a core of dense and dark red fruit on the nose – with flashes of pure cherry. The flavour builds and builds; the tannin has a slight ‘grab’ but almost no astringency – this will be a super-ebulient wine in it’s youth, but perhaps wait another six months.
2009 Jean-Nöel Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Morgeots
This nose has a wider impression of fruit, tinged with a little herbs. More tannin, again with a little grab but finely grained. The flavour slowly lingers in the finish – more mineral than fruit. It would be silly to call Morgeots an elegant wine, but after the l’Estimé I think you will understand what I mean.
This nose has a wider impression of fruit, tinged with a little herbs. More tannin, again with a little grab but finely grained. The flavour slowly lingers in the finish – more mineral than fruit. It would be silly to call Morgeots an elegant wine, but after the l’Estimé I think you will understand what I mean.
2009 Jean-Nöel Gagnard, Santenay 1er Clos Tavannes
The nose has lighter-coloured red fruit – more red-currant/raspberry than cherry. Nicely full, with a little tannic grain. There is dark-red fruit flavour and a lovely balance. This is not just strikingly pretty, it has depth too.
The nose has lighter-coloured red fruit – more red-currant/raspberry than cherry. Nicely full, with a little tannic grain. There is dark-red fruit flavour and a lovely balance. This is not just strikingly pretty, it has depth too.
1976 Jean-Nöel Gagnard, Santenay 1er Clos Tavannes
There is still some strawberry on the nose – this remains clean and fresh with a little sous-bois – lovely. There is still plenty of grainy tannin but without astringency. Good mid-palate flavour with a little blood-orange and hints of chocolate. Really super and apparently with plenty of life ahead of it.
There is still some strawberry on the nose – this remains clean and fresh with a little sous-bois – lovely. There is still plenty of grainy tannin but without astringency. Good mid-palate flavour with a little blood-orange and hints of chocolate. Really super and apparently with plenty of life ahead of it.
1976 Jean-Nöel Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
While on the subject of 76s – what about a white(?) There are a few hints of oxidation but it must have been the most volatile component as it soon departs from the glass; what’s left is a little lanolin and white chocolate. Full in the mouth yet with nice enough balance – there even appears to be some tannin. Long,with an impression of some licorice. Bravo!
While on the subject of 76s – what about a white(?) There are a few hints of oxidation but it must have been the most volatile component as it soon departs from the glass; what’s left is a little lanolin and white chocolate. Full in the mouth yet with nice enough balance – there even appears to be some tannin. Long,with an impression of some licorice. Bravo!
1986 Jean-Nöel Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Fast-forward ten years. The nose is deeper than than the ’76 – almost woody and a little spicy. In the mouth this is a little softer, but again shows some impression of tannin. Lovely acidity and intensity – it’s a nice acid-leaning, mouth-watering finish which emphasis a flavour of agrumes – captivating.
Fast-forward ten years. The nose is deeper than than the ’76 – almost woody and a little spicy. In the mouth this is a little softer, but again shows some impression of tannin. Lovely acidity and intensity – it’s a nice acid-leaning, mouth-watering finish which emphasis a flavour of agrumes – captivating.
Domaine Michel Gros (Vosne-Romanée)
Tasted in Vosne-Romanée, 8th April 2011. An interesting set of wines and ones that seemed to beg closer inspection. Plenty of dark oak-derived flavours but nothing to offer too much of a problem.
2008 Michel Gros, Hautes Côtes de Nuits
The nose has lovely inviting fresh-red fruit. In the mouth it’s also fresh with mouth-watering red fruits. An acid-led wine – but if you don’t mind – lovely – but I’d drink mine over the next couple of years!
The nose has lovely inviting fresh-red fruit. In the mouth it’s also fresh with mouth-watering red fruits. An acid-led wine – but if you don’t mind – lovely – but I’d drink mine over the next couple of years!
2007 Michel Gros, Vosne-Romanée
Round, the nose is quite ripe and spicy. In the mouth there’s good freshness for the vintage – strong flavour in the finish too. It’s a bit loose in the middle today but I admire some of the parts.
Round, the nose is quite ripe and spicy. In the mouth there’s good freshness for the vintage – strong flavour in the finish too. It’s a bit loose in the middle today but I admire some of the parts.
2007 Michel Gros, Nuits St.Georges
The aromas are more forward and fruity, a hint floral and fresher. Lovely raspberry fruit; cushioned long and fresh – lovely.
The aromas are more forward and fruity, a hint floral and fresher. Lovely raspberry fruit; cushioned long and fresh – lovely.
2007 Michel Gros, Nuits St.Georges Aux Challots
This is simply the villages Nuits with a little more elegance yet at the same time a little more intensity and minerality too – the villages was lovely, this is rather fine.
This is simply the villages Nuits with a little more elegance yet at the same time a little more intensity and minerality too – the villages was lovely, this is rather fine.
2004 Michel Gros, Vosne-Romanée 1er Clos des Reas
The nose has plenty of oak and dark cherry, a little farmyard too – eventually developing high-toned aromas too – I see no vintage character, but oak can obscure that – all the same nice. Good texture; mouthfilling with plenty of well-mannered tannin. Long and darkly flavoured – a good wine for drinking now.
The nose has plenty of oak and dark cherry, a little farmyard too – eventually developing high-toned aromas too – I see no vintage character, but oak can obscure that – all the same nice. Good texture; mouthfilling with plenty of well-mannered tannin. Long and darkly flavoured – a good wine for drinking now.
2001 Michel Gros, Nuits St.Georges 1er Cru
A blend of Murgers and Vignes Rondes. There’s a layer of sous-bois to get through but below is good supporting fruit. In the mouth that fruit is ripe and sweet – nicely concentrated too. Tarry, staining flavours that are very long indeed. This needs a couple more years in the cellar but it’s frankly excellent.
A blend of Murgers and Vignes Rondes. There’s a layer of sous-bois to get through but below is good supporting fruit. In the mouth that fruit is ripe and sweet – nicely concentrated too. Tarry, staining flavours that are very long indeed. This needs a couple more years in the cellar but it’s frankly excellent.
Domaine Patrick Javillier (Meursault)
Tasted in Meursault with Patrick, 18th May 2011. Everything here is already bottled.
2009 Patrick Javillier, Bourgogne Blanc Cuvée Forget
Forward aromas with hints of wood. Round, enough acidity though and quite some mid-palate concentration. Quite a distinguished length.
Forward aromas with hints of wood. Round, enough acidity though and quite some mid-palate concentration. Quite a distinguished length.
2009 Patrick Javillier, Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Monchevenois
The nose is higher toned and more interesting, with blossom and herbs. Silky texture with a mid-palate expansion of flavour. Good acidity and overall freshness – very nice.
The nose is higher toned and more interesting, with blossom and herbs. Silky texture with a mid-palate expansion of flavour. Good acidity and overall freshness – very nice.
2009 Patrick Javillier, Meursault Clos du Cromin
The nose offers hints of oak toast over a sweeter core. Lovely balance and very nice acidity. This is very tasty – not incredibly intense (it seems) but lovely all the same.
The nose offers hints of oak toast over a sweeter core. Lovely balance and very nice acidity. This is very tasty – not incredibly intense (it seems) but lovely all the same.
2009 Patrick Javillier, Meursault Les Tillets
The aromas are higher toned; white fruit with a subtle sweetness below. Broad and mouth-watering with fine intensity – lovely, lovely stuff.
The aromas are higher toned; white fruit with a subtle sweetness below. Broad and mouth-watering with fine intensity – lovely, lovely stuff.
2009 Patrick Javillier, Meursault Têtes de Murger
The nose offers more impact and density; a little gingerbread. Round in the mouth, with very good density. The intensity is still on the upward curve after you swallow – impressive and classic Meursault.
The nose offers more impact and density; a little gingerbread. Round in the mouth, with very good density. The intensity is still on the upward curve after you swallow – impressive and classic Meursault.
2009 Patrick Javillier, Aloxe-Corton
This has a nice violet-flower aroma with a few hints of reduction below. There is width, some intensity and certainly more than one dimension of flavour – it lingers very well too. A fine villages.
This has a nice violet-flower aroma with a few hints of reduction below. There is width, some intensity and certainly more than one dimension of flavour – it lingers very well too. A fine villages.
2009 Patrick Javillier, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Serpentières
Tighter aromas – this has spent less time in bottle – that slowly grow. There is more obvious structure than from the Aloxe but there is lovely fruit that pads it out. This has excellent potential – probably after 15 years will be honey…
Tighter aromas – this has spent less time in bottle – that slowly grow. There is more obvious structure than from the Aloxe but there is lovely fruit that pads it out. This has excellent potential – probably after 15 years will be honey…
Domaine Françoise Lamarche (Vosne-Romanée)
Tasted in Vosne-Romanée, 8th April 2011. Just a lovely set of wines – unfortunately my favourite 1er, La Croix Rameau had only just been assembled for bottling so wasn’t up to tasting, everything else came from tank – assembled for a few days already. Quite a dark-fruited complexion to all the wines – no obvious reduction though after assembling. Some of the domaine’s parcels were converted to biodynamic in 2010…
2009 Lamarche, Bourgogne Rouge
Dusty cherry aromas. Good acidity, likewise the fruit is beyond expectation for the label. The tannin is a little harder but this is very young – super Bourgogne.
Dusty cherry aromas. Good acidity, likewise the fruit is beyond expectation for the label. The tannin is a little harder but this is very young – super Bourgogne.
2009 Lamarche, Vosne-Romanée
Fruit for this wine was blended from five parcels. Darker fruit with an obvious spicy Vosne context plus a little oak. This is fuller, rounder and more supple than the Bourgogne, extra intensity too of darker fruit – some licorice and hints of cedar. Good wine!
Fruit for this wine was blended from five parcels. Darker fruit with an obvious spicy Vosne context plus a little oak. This is fuller, rounder and more supple than the Bourgogne, extra intensity too of darker fruit – some licorice and hints of cedar. Good wine!
2009 Lamarche, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Cras
The nose has core of pure dark-red fruit. There is more fine tannin; again this is intense but more linear and mineral than the Vosne. The last drops have taken on a floral and redcurrant aspect – very pretty.
The nose has core of pure dark-red fruit. There is more fine tannin; again this is intense but more linear and mineral than the Vosne. The last drops have taken on a floral and redcurrant aspect – very pretty.
2009 Lamarche, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Chaumes
The nose is quite lovely, if a little understated after the last wines – more high-toned and elegant. There is more tannin again and a flavour that is nicely Vosne; good freshness and long-lasting dark fruit and mineral flavour to finish.
The nose is quite lovely, if a little understated after the last wines – more high-toned and elegant. There is more tannin again and a flavour that is nicely Vosne; good freshness and long-lasting dark fruit and mineral flavour to finish.
2009 Lamarche, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
After the Chaumes this nose has more impact of dark, up-front fruit. Silkier, intense and dark flavours cross the palate – staining. Large-scaled structure but not overwhelmingly so – no fat, just power.
After the Chaumes this nose has more impact of dark, up-front fruit. Silkier, intense and dark flavours cross the palate – staining. Large-scaled structure but not overwhelmingly so – no fat, just power.
2009 Lamarche, Vosne-Romanée 1er Aux Malconsorts
Dark and brooding fruit on the nose – warming the glass brings a burst of dark spice. Full and wide in the mouth – plenty of structure too; the tannin has a hint of dryness, but that’s wood tannin and will fade the quickest.
Dark and brooding fruit on the nose – warming the glass brings a burst of dark spice. Full and wide in the mouth – plenty of structure too; the tannin has a hint of dryness, but that’s wood tannin and will fade the quickest.
2009 Lamarche, Echézeaux
Again the nose is deep and dark. The texture is more plush than the 1er crus but full of mouth-wrapping fine tannin too – this really is a step up in ‘volume’ for everything – surprising that I find it lacking a bit of character then(?)
Again the nose is deep and dark. The texture is more plush than the 1er crus but full of mouth-wrapping fine tannin too – this really is a step up in ‘volume’ for everything – surprising that I find it lacking a bit of character then(?)
2009 Lamarche, Clos de Vougeot
The nose is more intense – a hint of chocolate in there too. Full in the mouth; the structure is softer than the Echézeaux – but there’s still plenty of it. Just so intense that you have to swallow or spit – you can’t dally. “Wonderful” murmurs somebody – and why not indeed!
The nose is more intense – a hint of chocolate in there too. Full in the mouth; the structure is softer than the Echézeaux – but there’s still plenty of it. Just so intense that you have to swallow or spit – you can’t dally. “Wonderful” murmurs somebody – and why not indeed!
2009 Lamarche, Grands-Echézeaux
The nose is much more understated than the last couple of wines but it really pulls you in with its extra floral dimension – very lovely. In the mouth this is full-on – don’t be deceived by the nose but the structure is quite soft. The flavour expands in the mid-palate bringing the high-toned floral notes of the nose into play – a long slow diminuendo of a finish – very lovely.
The nose is much more understated than the last couple of wines but it really pulls you in with its extra floral dimension – very lovely. In the mouth this is full-on – don’t be deceived by the nose but the structure is quite soft. The flavour expands in the mid-palate bringing the high-toned floral notes of the nose into play – a long slow diminuendo of a finish – very lovely.
2009 Lamarche, La Grand Rue
The nose has still-more flowers than the Grands-Echézeaux, blended with mixed spice and perhaps cloves too. It’s a lovely high-toned, almost perfumed, mid-palate. There’s just a gorgeous line of clear fruit right through the core of the wine into its finish – beautiful!
The nose has still-more flowers than the Grands-Echézeaux, blended with mixed spice and perhaps cloves too. It’s a lovely high-toned, almost perfumed, mid-palate. There’s just a gorgeous line of clear fruit right through the core of the wine into its finish – beautiful!
Domaine Leroy (Vosne)
Tasted in Vosne, 16th May 2011. My first visit here and it’s all a little surreal! The house in Vosne is merely an office though the attached cuverie is the where all the action happens. ‘Couture’ doesn’t come close to describing the approach – tiny, tiny yields (2008 – 13 hl/ha, 2010 – 10 hl/ha!) – you have the impression that every grape is individually (hand!) polished, and is never knowingly removed from its stem. Imagine owning half a hectare of Chambertin yet making only two barrels from it (2010); of-course the price (more-than!) reflects that…
2009s had just been assembled so weren’t for tasting; likewise most of the 2010s had just been racked, but I did manage to taste the 2010 Corton Renardes and the Chambertin. No notes, but the were almost good. For solace we opened three bottles…
2008 Leroy, Volnay 1er Santenots du Milieu
The nose is frankly extra-ordinary; gorgeous fruit in the middle, a depth of soil supporting it and a majestic floral perfume above – I don’t care about the label, it can’t get better than this. Round and full, with exquisite balance. For it’s age, close to perfect wine…
The nose is frankly extra-ordinary; gorgeous fruit in the middle, a depth of soil supporting it and a majestic floral perfume above – I don’t care about the label, it can’t get better than this. Round and full, with exquisite balance. For it’s age, close to perfect wine…
2008 Leroy, Romanée St.Vivant
A hint of reduction fades to offer a super display of flowers. Round, full and super-silky without every becoming heavy.
A hint of reduction fades to offer a super display of flowers. Round, full and super-silky without every becoming heavy.
2007 Leroy, Chambertin
This nose seems a little diffuse after the majesty of the first two but also seems to be textured. Here is also plenty of floral aroma but from different flowers. Super-silky again; a wine that is absolutely distinguished by its haunting finish.
This nose seems a little diffuse after the majesty of the first two but also seems to be textured. Here is also plenty of floral aroma but from different flowers. Super-silky again; a wine that is absolutely distinguished by its haunting finish.
Domaine Comte Liger-Belair (Vosne-Romanée)
Tasted in Vosne-Romanée, 17th May 2011 with Louis-Michel Liger-Belair. We tasted the 2010s but it’s still of limited value to offer notes at such a tender age – the bottles on the other hand…
2008 Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanée Clos du Château
Medium colour. Precocious aromas of roses and red fruits – super. Velvet tannin with just an edge of ‘grab’. Beautiful acidity – a wine of beautiful balance.
Medium colour. Precocious aromas of roses and red fruits – super. Velvet tannin with just an edge of ‘grab’. Beautiful acidity – a wine of beautiful balance.
2008 Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
Floral aromas. The palate has great poise but is really distinguished by its dense, flavourful finish – I’d finish it myself given half the chance.
Floral aromas. The palate has great poise but is really distinguished by its dense, flavourful finish – I’d finish it myself given half the chance.
2008 Comte Liger-Belair, Echézeaux
Medium-plus colour. Floral – roses and violets. Textured, partly the tannin but interestingly so, yet this is quickly forgotten given the gorgeous flavour. Can you (ever) have enough of this wine…(?)
Medium-plus colour. Floral – roses and violets. Textured, partly the tannin but interestingly so, yet this is quickly forgotten given the gorgeous flavour. Can you (ever) have enough of this wine…(?)
2008 Comte Liger-Belair, La Romanée
I started writing transparent, but I think I really mean ethereal, flowers and fruit – exquisitely detailed. Density though no apparent weight, this has quite some understatement; just a subtly haunting length…
I started writing transparent, but I think I really mean ethereal, flowers and fruit – exquisitely detailed. Density though no apparent weight, this has quite some understatement; just a subtly haunting length…
2006 Comte Liger-Belair, Echézeaux
Much aromatic complexity – warming the glass brings more density of fruit. Full but balanced, supple concentration – another wine of understated but impressive length. Less ‘woody’ than a bottle last September – just lovely, covetable wine.
Much aromatic complexity – warming the glass brings more density of fruit. Full but balanced, supple concentration – another wine of understated but impressive length. Less ‘woody’ than a bottle last September – just lovely, covetable wine.
Mischief & ; Mayhem (Aloxe-Corton)
Tasted in Aloxe-Corton, 9th April 2011. Tagged onto the back of a group tasting, I managed to taste a couple of wines for the first time in a while…
2007 Mischief and Mayhem, Meursault 1er, Gouttes d’Or
A super width of caramel inflected, mineral aromas. The texture is lithe rather than fat, quite some minerality too. Excellent acidity and good intensity – long on a mineral note. Yum.
A super width of caramel inflected, mineral aromas. The texture is lithe rather than fat, quite some minerality too. Excellent acidity and good intensity – long on a mineral note. Yum.
2006 Mischief and Mayhem, Vosne-Romanée
A beautiful aroma rises from the glass; there is a little spice but it bubbles below red berries and violets – lovely. The palate is becoming tight, but it retains just enough generosity that there is balance. It’s a little mineral in the long finish. Very good, but either just sniff or be prepared to wait a few years.
A beautiful aroma rises from the glass; there is a little spice but it bubbles below red berries and violets – lovely. The palate is becoming tight, but it retains just enough generosity that there is balance. It’s a little mineral in the long finish. Very good, but either just sniff or be prepared to wait a few years.
Domaine Ramonet (Chassagne-Montrachet)
Tasted in Chassagne, 19th May 2011. My first visit here and it’s almost as hard to get a first visit as it is Leroy – well, almost! Noel Ramonet was host but I wasn’t alone; Mr François (of François Frères) and a bit of a hero of mine, Jim Clenenden – they say it’s dangerous to meet your heroes but he was one cool guy…
The domaine exploits seventeen hectares and given their reputation it seems almost a surprise that forty percent of their volume is actually red wine. Roughly 30-35% of new wood (it’s not enough says Mr François!) is used in the elevage of almost everything – save the two barrels of Montrachet, one of which is new.
In the context of the vintage, once you get past a couple of wines that need a hint more zip, these are very classy wines indeed – I’m so pleased that I’d previously bought the red Chassagne Clos de la Boudriotte as an en-primeur wine, as it tasted great here. All the wines that follow were already in bottle.
2009 Ramonet, Bourgogne Chardonnay
Round, understated aromas slowly evolve some pretty high-toned notes. The palate is the same but has a nice density – quite rich – a little more acidity would be appreciated by me, though but it’s still tasty wine.
Round, understated aromas slowly evolve some pretty high-toned notes. The palate is the same but has a nice density – quite rich – a little more acidity would be appreciated by me, though but it’s still tasty wine.
2009 Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet
A good nose of classic Chassagne herbs over a ripe core of fruit. Also quite rich but this easily has more finesse than the bourgogne and a mid-palate density of flavour that grows and grows – lovely.
A good nose of classic Chassagne herbs over a ripe core of fruit. Also quite rich but this easily has more finesse than the bourgogne and a mid-palate density of flavour that grows and grows – lovely.
2009 Ramonet, St.Aubin
High-toned, lovely aromatics – I like this! Lovely balance and energy too. The flavours have a mineral quality – very lovely wine.
High-toned, lovely aromatics – I like this! Lovely balance and energy too. The flavours have a mineral quality – very lovely wine.
2009 Ramonet, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Encegnières
There’s a little toasted bread to augment good top to bottom but not too forceful aromas. I like the balance here and there’s very good intensity and some minerality too.
There’s a little toasted bread to augment good top to bottom but not too forceful aromas. I like the balance here and there’s very good intensity and some minerality too.
2009 Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Morgeot
A good nose of depth, some herbs, in fact plenty of things to find. Full and quite rich in the mouth, initially with just enough acidity but the impression of acidity grows as your mouth waters – holding steady into the finish.
A good nose of depth, some herbs, in fact plenty of things to find. Full and quite rich in the mouth, initially with just enough acidity but the impression of acidity grows as your mouth waters – holding steady into the finish.
2009 Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Boudriotte
The nose is like that of the Morgeot but with an extra twist of herbs. This is also rich but with a mineral vein that offers counterpoint and balance. I think this is lovely – a good lingering flavour too…
The nose is like that of the Morgeot but with an extra twist of herbs. This is also rich but with a mineral vein that offers counterpoint and balance. I think this is lovely – a good lingering flavour too…
2009 Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Vergers
Here the nose is both wider and higher-toned – lovely herbs. Full, very silky, growing with intensity and understated minerality. Very good wine!
Here the nose is both wider and higher-toned – lovely herbs. Full, very silky, growing with intensity and understated minerality. Very good wine!
2009 Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Caillerets
It’s a high-toned if relatively tight nose. Lovely texture, minerality and a crescendo of intensity – this wine is an absolute honey!
It’s a high-toned if relatively tight nose. Lovely texture, minerality and a crescendo of intensity – this wine is an absolute honey!
2009 Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Ruchottes
There’s a smoky edge to the nose – apparently characteristic – which frames slowly evolving and growing clean aromas. Full in the mouth but with a still growing intensity. This is very impressive wine indeed – eventually showing a little savoury note amongst the minerality.
There’s a smoky edge to the nose – apparently characteristic – which frames slowly evolving and growing clean aromas. Full in the mouth but with a still growing intensity. This is very impressive wine indeed – eventually showing a little savoury note amongst the minerality.
2009 Ramonet, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Champs Canet
High-toned aromas with flashes of interesting ripe fruits. Very silky and intense – lovely balance too. The sweet fruit at its core grows in intensity – super!
High-toned aromas with flashes of interesting ripe fruits. Very silky and intense – lovely balance too. The sweet fruit at its core grows in intensity – super!
2009 Ramonet, Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet
High-tones and a hint of spearmint(!) Full and round again with that characteristic welling-up of intensity. Lithe and energetic – almost electric – wow!
High-tones and a hint of spearmint(!) Full and round again with that characteristic welling-up of intensity. Lithe and energetic – almost electric – wow!
2009 Ramonet, Bâtard-Montrachet
Again high-toned, there’s a floral depth here and some lightly toasted bread. Rich and silky, indeed mouth-coating. There is impressive depth yet this wine remains light on its feet – some stony fruit in the finish. Love…
Again high-toned, there’s a floral depth here and some lightly toasted bread. Rich and silky, indeed mouth-coating. There is impressive depth yet this wine remains light on its feet – some stony fruit in the finish. Love…
2009 Ramonet, Chevalier-Montrachet
The domaine trade some Bâtard with Chartron for this. Very understated aromas. Super, super mouth-coating flavour. Minerality and a hint of astringency. I think this really excellent. It is a completely different, higher-toned personality to the other wines and I also think it is just behind the Bâtard in quality.
The domaine trade some Bâtard with Chartron for this. Very understated aromas. Super, super mouth-coating flavour. Minerality and a hint of astringency. I think this really excellent. It is a completely different, higher-toned personality to the other wines and I also think it is just behind the Bâtard in quality.
2009 Ramonet, Montrachet
The nose is full and round, offering high tones and low tones. Less mouth-coating than the Bâtard but with super intensity but then surprises with yet another dimension of flavour. Special.
The nose is full and round, offering high tones and low tones. Less mouth-coating than the Bâtard but with super intensity but then surprises with yet another dimension of flavour. Special.
2009 Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos St.Jean (red)
Medium colour. Lovely red fruit with cracked pepper corns on the nose. Lovely width and it offers-up another dimension of flavour in the mid-palate. I find this a very good wine.
Medium colour. Lovely red fruit with cracked pepper corns on the nose. Lovely width and it offers-up another dimension of flavour in the mid-palate. I find this a very good wine.
2009 Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos de la Boudriotte (red)
The nose has herbs and fruit but less pepper than the Clos St.Jean, the fruit has a darker complexion too. Supple and concentrated with ever intensifying flavours. Overall, quite silky and very good indeed!
The nose has herbs and fruit but less pepper than the Clos St.Jean, the fruit has a darker complexion too. Supple and concentrated with ever intensifying flavours. Overall, quite silky and very good indeed!