Albert Morot was founded in 1820 as a négociant. In 1890 they purchased seven hectares of vines and also the buildings that they currently occupy on the route de Bouze. Geoffroy Choppin de Janvry became responsible for Domaine Albert Morot in 2000 when his aunt retired. The domaine was being run together with the négoce business as late as the 1980s by the uncle of Geoffroy, but when the uncle became ill Geoffroy’s aunt decided to stop the négoce to concentrate on the domaine vines. The uncle died in 2000 and without children, Geoffroy was next in line for the rôle at the domaine – brought up in Paris he had studied agromomy at Montpellier University.
Today there are 8 hectares of vines; 1.80 ha of Savigny La Bataillière, seven premier crus in Beaune – only one white (Aigrots) – and some villages Pommard from 2008. Geoffroy has also started to buy a little extra grapes to augment his production, for instance there were 5 barrels of Champimonts when I visited. The cuverie and particularly the cellars could certainly accommodate much more wine – with two large sub-levels, three vintages could fit in here – even in 2003 the temperature stayed at a steady 13°C in the lower level.
Soil is worked in a bio way. The vines see a vendanges vert and later in the growing season the team remove leaves on the northern side of the vines to improve aeration. Generally a low yield of 35-40hl/ha is achieved.
The harvest is usually a quick thing – there are many hands so it requires only about 5 or 6 days. Triage is done at the vines, leaving sub-standard bunches on the ground but there is also a vibrating followed by triage table at the domaine too. Everything is destemmed here. The cuves are stainless steel – Geoffroy changed from oak in 2005, he thought the summer of 2003 had dried the vats a little too much – he anyway likes the simplicity of operation and cleanliness that stainless steel brings. Cuvaison starts with 4-5 days of pre-fermentation maceration and lasts in total about 20 days. The wines are not racked until bottling as Geoffroy prefers to preserve the wines with their carbon dioxide rather than rack and have to add sulfur. There is no fining or filtration here.
Visited and tasted 28th July 2010. It was a little early to taste some of these barrels, but they generally showed to high level. Based on the wines below I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend
Near the Clos des Mouches, these chardonnay vines almost always give a nice freshness. 40% new oak, not racked. The five barrels here are the totality of the whites at this domaine. Slightly savoury aromas. Fine, balancing acidity. This seems a very nice prospect – and one that I’d buy.
30% new oak for all the reds. Forward, wide, dark red fruit. A little gas but I take clear note of the structure and intensity.
Dark red fruit. Lots of concentration and very precise red fruit – this could be a 2008. The flavour holds very well in the finish – this will be super.
From high on the slope, it’s colder here and seems to deliver an extra freshness. These are the oldest vines of the domaine planted 1955 looked after in a bio fashion, but are treated by helicopter as Geoffroy doesn’t want to lose any of the vines to the tractor’s tyres! Lovely depth to the fruit aromas. The darker fruit flavours really cling to well to the inside of your mouth – super.
From above Toussaints, always more balanced, rounder and longer. Wide aromas of dark red fruits. This appears to offer a fuller fruit effect and lots of depth too. This is the most complete cuvée yet – very impressive.
The domaine has 0.12 hectares, their smallest cuvée – Geoffroy would be much happier if there was more – ‘it’s not so easy to ferment such small amounts’. Jellied dark fruit – lovely purity. A dark-fruited intensity at the core. Not perhaps as complete a wine (half-finished today) as the Bressandes, but…
Teurons always give good tannin ripeness. Clearly reduced, though more powerful and structured.
Very pretty red fruit and dark red cherry. Good width and slightly grippy tannins – but not grainy. I find a lovely acid balance here.
Very fruity – a wide red fruit horizon. Depth of concentrated, almost jammy fruit – lower acidity after the 2008 – but intense and mineral too, particularly the finish. This is super for an 07.
This shows a lovely mix of bright and precise berries and currants. Mouth-filling concentration, just enough acidity and full of flavour. It’s a joy to drink now.. Dark-edged fruit, the structure comes in quite late in the mid-palate to make the point that you’ve called early – but the demeanour remains friendly…