Wines tasted 1st May.
Mischief and Mayhem have retained my award for ‘Personal Shoppers’ for whites. The range (below) perfectly encapsulate the freshness and clarity of 2007 whites – I have bought 2005s and 2006s from this address, and I shall also buy some 2007s.
For the 2007 vintage they have scaled back on their purchases and, hence, the number of cuvées on offer to 10 whites and 5 reds – and that’s not a reflection of the quality of reds – their open and friendly demeanor from this vintage dovetails well with their existing client-base, rather their decision reflects the business ‘sense’ that a young négoce should not over-extend themselves during an economic downturn.
No oak – all elevage in stainless steel – bottled in July 2008. A soaring, high-toned nose that’s faintly estery but high-toned and engaging. In the mouth there’s much more impact than expected; good density and concentration and a lovely citrus acidity that aids the length. Slowly it develops a creamy flavour. Taught and tasty – I thought this lovely.
Bottled September 2008. The colour is a little deeper yellow. Riper and punchier aromas fill the glass, backed by faint oak. The flavours are richer than the St.Romain’s but there’s an underlying freshness that avoids too fat an impression, yet the texture is silky smooth. Faintly lingering with some savoury flavour. Clean and tasty.
A similar colour to the Meursault – about 25% new oak. Faint wisps of oak mingle with the classic higher tones and ‘cut’ of Puligny. This seems to offer a shade more excitement than the Meursault, with fine penetrating flavours. Super acidity and faint cream is to be seen on the very good finish. Super.
Bottled February. Medium yellow. It’s a relatively tight nose that shows its 25% new oak much less than the villages wines did. A little fat, stones, nice acidity – the impression is that it starts rather narrow before broadening in the mid-palate, holding into the finish – faint grapefruit flavour. I like this.
Bottled in January. The nose is more forward, showing hints of fresh apricot and a little exoticism. A wide panorama of flavours that give the impression of further widening into the mid-palate. Rather than ‘stony’, this is ‘steely’ and shows fine, lingering flavours. Super.
Bottled end of February, elevage in 50% new oak. Just a little extra yellow colour. This has a beautiful, fine and complex nose that shows plenty of floral aspects. Pure, textured depth seems to whisk you all-too-soon to the finish, but balance is restored as it’s a very long finish. Not a wine of overt power, but the delivery is fantastic, eventually taking on an extra mineral dimension. Double-super!
A high-toned, floral nose. The fruit on your tongue seems yellower in aspect and shows an almost tannic edge. Lingering flavour and perfect freshness – a super finish. I think this is one of a number of beautiful ‘Charmes’ from the vintage – I like it very much.
Bottled in March. Ripe fruit aromas with perfectly integrated faint oak and hints of mint leaf. Mouth-filling with an extra edge of fat versus the Charmes. Lovely crystallised lemon fruit on the long finish. Lovely
Mainly sourced from Aloxe fruit, bottled in September, no new oak. Medium colour. The nose shows pretty, high-toned, generous pinot aromas – very pretty actually. In the mouth there’s more tannin than many from the vintage but it’s supple and overall very tasty. This is actually a super Bourgogne, and easily worth the €10 cellar door price.