Carel Voorhuis’s diary and mine have been ‘at odds’ for too long, but finally a chance to visit.
First we took a tour of the 2008 barrels – “the reds are supple and not so acidic as many forecast as much of that acidity was malic, typical pHs are now around 3.4 – 3.5” said Carel
I must say, they have lovely perfumes, and some cuvées have plenty of structure. The whites show plenty of fat, but so far, the balance looks okay.
In the short time we had available we then took a look at a selection of 2007s. Wines tasted 20th May:
There’s a nice mix of both ripe and higher-toned aromas. A little fat and slightly tropical with a sweet, sponge-bread flavour in the finish. This has the normal Beaune impact, but in this vintage has a good balance to match – quite interesting!
Vines that are surrounded villages vines on one side, Corton on another, Corton-Charlemagne on the third, and the woods at the top of the hill. Another tasteful blend of ripe fruit and higher-toned, more citrus notes. Good ‘cut’ – seems nicely incisive – very good concentration and even an element of dry extract. A slowly lingering finish. I was going to say ‘pretty’, but it’s much more than that…
Medium colour. The nose shows a little ‘brown sugar’ oak (Carel – “the oak is Alliers; more for aromatic character than structure”) over finer red berry aromas. Good fat, but the acidity is very well judged. The tannin stands a little proud, but the wine was only bottled the previous week. It finishes very well, and with only a trace of oak character.
About one third whole clusters used for this wine. Medium, medium-plus colour. The aromas are less intense than the Beaune, but they are more round and much more complex, slowly they take on more focus and a redder colour. In the mouth this is complex and exciting with an intense spine. The finish shows a little oak, but it’s a long finish.
From 6 plots whse vines average about 35 years old – there is some vine disease, but the payoff is lower yields and smaller grapes and clusters. Medium, medium-plus colour. A similar, slightly sweet aromatic profile but the fruit is darker. Supple, with good concentration. Very well balanced. The tannin shows together with the dark flavours as you head into the creamy finish. Very successful villages!
Picked quite late, requiring lots of sorting. Medium, medium-plus colour. It’s a cherry-compote nose that’s edged with cream. After the Gevrey villages there is an obvious increase in flavour intensity. Reasonable tannin, good freshness and a long finish that shows lots of very fine red-fruit character. Very pretty today, but serious at the core.