Some 2006’s at any rate 😉
In May 2008 I made a short visit to Domaine Lucie & Auguste Lignier. I’d hoped to taste a few of the domaine’s 2006’s, but Kellen Lignier was called away, so I mainly made a tour of the 2007 barrels instead in the company of Richard Bos, though we managed to slip-in a couple of 2006’s too.
Whilst it’s far too early to take more than a sense of the wines to come, some of these showed real class, so I leave you with the narrative…
The 2007 Bourgogne despite being quite unformed showed bright, fresh aromas and some density in the mouth. The 2007 Chambolle-Musigny’s malotactic had been finished for about 6 weeks, but was still full of gas, despite that there was clearly more depth, both on the nose and on the mid-palate. 2007 Chambolle-Musigny Bussières showed a darker fruit profile and more length despite its reduction. The 2007 Morey St.Denis Sionnières was the first to resemble a finished wine, with width, depth, interest and vigour – nice!
For the 2007 Morey St.Denis, which is partly from 1er cru Genavrières we contrasted the first sample from a 1 year-old barrel, which showed a dark nose and intensity without fat, with another sample from a new barrel – here there seemed more power on the nose, but less in the mouth. The length was very good in both cases. Next was the villages 2007 Gevrey-Chambertin; in this case the new Alliers barrel showed high tones and a soft and comfortable mouth feel with smooth tannin – contrasting with a one year-old barrel, there was some mid-palate sweetness missing, but this offered up a nice red berry-fruit aroma after a while.
Now clearly onto the premier crus we started with 2007 Morey St.Denis 1er cru Chaffonts; the first sample was oaky and reduced, but sample number two had complex and interesting aromatics and was both vigorous and mineral in the mouth – very interesting. The 2007 Morey St.Denis 1er cru Cuvée Romain Lignier followed; the first barrel had understated aromatics and, despite impressive length, was too gassy. The second barrel also had gas, but red berry aromas were in evidence and more obvious red fruit in the mouth – this clearly has super potential.
The 2007 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru Les Combottes had no problems overcoming its dissolved gas; wide, with slightly creamy fruit aromas that eventually release a redcurrant note and a body of beautifully deep sorbet-like fruit. This will be really excellent. 2007 Morey St.Denis 1er cru Les Riottes followed the Combottes – or tried to – the aromas were wider, but more diffuse, though in the mouth it appears more mineral, and shows good finishing density.
Last of the 2007’s was the 2007 Clos de la Roche. Much more linear than the Riottes, but the aromas went very deep before eventually offering up some floral complexity. In the mouth it’s a soft entry, a little fatter but there’s real concentration here and a creamy aspect to the red/black fruit. This is intense and very long – it’s also very, very classy.
Finally, two from 2006 which were about to be bottled:
2006 L & A Lignier, Morey St.Denis 1er Cuveé Romain Lignier
Hints of reduction on the nose, below dark, velvety fruit. In the mouth it envelops the tongue with well-mannered tannin and super-expressive fruit. Lingers very well. Super.
2006 L & A Lignier, Clos de la Roche
A little more width of soft-edged, pure fruit on the nose. Mouth filling but mineral with a lovely sorbet-style dimension to the fruit. A little burst in the mid-palate then very good length. Also super.