Tasted with Fabien Duperray in La Chapelle de Guinchay, 23 June 2021 – and this year I cajoled him into actually looking at the camera!
Fabien on 2021:
“Re frost and hail, in the reds not much was touched or we were very touched – it’s heterogeneous – but the whites, together with the hail around Fuissé and the frost of April – there’s not going to be much. We’ve made 2 treatments so far and some of our neighbours have already made 6 – I’ve never seen them treating in the rain before – but we will all be really searching for grapes to harvest this year.”
Fabien on recent vintages:
“We won’t be bottling 2019s for a few weeks – but it’s close. I think 18 whites a great vintage – not as flattering as 17, more introverted but the same great lines as 2016 which I think really great.”
“Agromomy takes time, but I think I’m slowly approaching the type of wine that I want to make…” Well, Fabien is certainly making not just the type of wine that I would want to drink but also the type of wine that I would make a special search to buy. It’s a great range here in 2019.
I’m sorry to have missed out on the whites here, this time round – I consider this to be the goto address for whites from the Mâconnais – but the reds showed more than ‘well’ and will be bottled in a couple of weeks after my tasting:
Thats a vibrant nose, pure berry, hyper attractive, almost a redcurrant. Mouthfilling, open, melting, a vibrant wall of flavour but open, open. Thats simply a great wine. ‘I haven’t changed the way of making that much but I work very hard on the viticulture – this is in a good place but not the best in Chénas so its human nature to make it the best I can… He has, this is great Chénas
Micoux (foot of Py) and Corcelettes in this mix.
Deeper fruit, suggesting a faint reduction but again so pure. More structural, a vibrancy of finishing energy ‘This is Wagner the last was Mozart’ says Fabian. Lovely finishing but today I slightly prefer the Chénas – not that I would ever reject this great Morgon!
Again a vibrant berry fruit, here with a deeper width of faintly spiced aroma. Fresher, energetic, almost mineral. Clean, dark-fruited. A freshness that’s really as much a tension – great wine again. Subtle finishing but extra long too.
2019 Moulin à Vent Michelons
Here is a much more discrete nose but again what purity it offers. A little more fat but a growing freshness and intensity. Delicious, pure, certainly excellent wine but it is showing tighter than the ‘straight’ Moulin today.
I invented nothing here, there are neighbours with old wines that are brilliant. MaV is an aristocrat for sure, but Fleurie speaks to you!
A more cushioned nose, less instantly accessible. Slowly, slowly opening, showcasing brilliant red fruit, half cherry, half redcurrant in style! Eventually, a hint of potpourri spiced perfume too. Ooh – volume, dynamism, intensity – wow wine – how does this wine so usurp the Michelons?