Jean Vaudoisey – 2017


Romain PoirrotteTasted with Romain Poirrotte in Volnay, 18 June 2019.

Domaine Jean Vaudoisey
6 Rue du Pied de la Vallée
21190 Volnay
Tel: +33 3 80 21 62 59

Romain his recent vintages:
2017 and 2018 both had good volume harvests compared to the 80% losses we endured in 2016 – there wasn’t much but I still love the quality of those 2016s. We also have some good exports now, and it’s growing. We still have some remaining 2017s to sell, but not much. I think 2017’s a nice vintage, one of finesse but it brings with it a certain force, a certain energy, it’s quite different to the strong sun of 2018s. It wasn’t possible to abuse the volumes in 2017 or you would have ended up with something not good!

The domaine is now 7.5 hectares, as Romain was able to buy a small amount of Volnay near Clos des Chênes, just after my first visit in 2016.

The wines…

A compact but great range of 2017s – a young domaine to savour…

2017 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Almost all in the commune of Volnay but there’s a little from Pommard and Meursault too. A little young vines are included, but the average is still over 59 years old
Super depth of colour. A depth of concentrated red fruit. Supple, mouth-filling, melting flavour – growing bigger and more impressive. Delicious, pure, but also powerful Bourgogne. Yes!

2017 Volnay
About 10 parcels assembled from all around the village – high and low
Hmm, a vibrant nose, deeply red-fruited – this implies a treat! Wide, more tension, growing concentration from the core – a different shape, a shape that needs time to unfurl but already delivering lovely small waves of concentrated, vibrant, flavour – then with a mineral kick to finish. Excellent!

2017 Volnay Grand Champs
Plenty of colour again. And once again a lovely freshness of concentrated red fruit. More mouth-filling, similar freshness and intensity – this wine already more in place than the last. Equally kicking with mineral intensity in the finish but long. A great finishing presence for a villages!
2017 Pommard
Three parcel – 2 high and one low. Quite old vines ‘averaging at least 70…’
Great colour again. Equally fresh, more depth, less width to this nose, but growing a beautiful floral perfume. More structural more direct but gorgeously pure and complex for a villages – bravo – great villages. Structure but with finesse.

2017 Volnay 1er Mitans
The vines are sited behind the big red house that’s on your left-hand side before the old Chapelle – direction Meursault..
Here’s an extra depth of complexity to the aroma, and like the Pommard, slowly adding floral extras – yes! Structural but more depth of balancing texture when compared to that Pommard – the faint cushioning having a faint and attractive animale impression. Love this to drink already – excellent!

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