18 wines, tasted blind in Beaune, 23 May 2019.
Clichés are usually that, but in 2017 there is more structure and more tannin in the Fixins than you will find in the Marsannays or Santenays – patience is rerquired. But there are many super wines too…
2017 Derey Frères, Fixin Les Clos
A big, bright, nose with herb and spice over a core of red fruit – attractive. Structural, but with layers of fruit and good energy. This is intense wine – and long finishing too – wait for its structure to round out – but there’s a fine blend of concentration and flavour here.
Alian Jeanniard, Fixin En Combe Roy
A big, bulky bottle. Medium-plus colour. Here’s a vibrant red fruit, almost perfumed. Framed by its tannin, but this is less overtly structured than the last – but again a fine blend of fresh, intense flavour and concentration to wait for.
Medium, medium-plus colour. A little oak-toast on this nose – or actually as it opens – perhaps that’s a more whole-cluster perfume. Mouth-filling, nice depth of flavour – lovely texture with a modest grain of tannin framing. Supple, pure dark fruit. Great villages Fixin!
2017 Clos St.Louis, Fixin l’Olivier
Medium-plus colour. A modest volume of aroma, but a nice width of appealing spice and fruit. Drive, freshness and direction – a whole bunch of energy here – a touch of astringency, but intense finishing, tasty wine. Super.
2017 Clos St.Louis, Fixin Clos Entre Deux Velles
Medium-plus colour. A nice freshness of dark-red fruit on this nose – silky. Grainy, driving with flavour, lots of energy, more saline and structural – to wait for! But good stuff!
2017 Pierre Naigeon, Fixin Les Herbues
Hmm – lovely depth to this aroma – dark red, inviting fruit. Again, everything is framed by the tannin – some astringency here but very fine grain. That said, the flavour is succulent and has good intensity. Another to be patient with, but a super wine.
2017 Collotte, Fixin Les Crais de Chêne VV
Medium-plus colour. A fine nose – wide, dark-fruited, slowly growing with a floral perfume – so inviting. Silky, not the astringency of others, the fruit is intense – intense red-berry, fine-grained tannin. This is really excellent wine.
2017 Albert Bichot, Fixin
Medium, medium-plus colour. A nice nose – some high-tones – not very forward, but attractive all the same. Wide, velvet texture, hardly any astringency, fresh and clean. Quite a mineral, saline line in the finish – individual and super!
Medium, medium-plus colour. Hmm – that’s lovely – a high-toned fruit – raspberry in style – highly attractive. Mouth-filling, great texture, layers of flavour – complex. Not overtly oaked, and a tiny grain of saline oak. Bravo!
2017 Pierre Damoy, Fixin Les Mogottes
Medium-plus colour. The nose suggests both a bit of reduction and gas. Perhaps a bit of gas, as the reduction – maybe not. Anyway, darkly fruited – modestly grainy tannin, and a nicely mobile flavour over the palate. The finish has a sneaky, mouth-watering, quality that’s very tasty – but that flavour has to work its way through some grain of tannin. Very good but be patient!
A very heavy bottle!
Medium-plus colour. Actually an attractive width of dark, slightly reductive aroma. Yes a little reduction on the palate too, but super texture and depth of flavour. The tannin is very fine-grained. Super wine on the palate with a slowly mouth-watering finish. Excellent – nay bravo for villages!
2017 Philippe Naddef, Fixin Les Clos
Another weight-lifter’s bottle.
Medium-plus colour. Composed, deep, darkly fruited aroma. A palate that is more energetic and driven than the nose suggested. Big, complex, some dryness of tannin but it’s a lip-smacking more than a drying flavour. Excellent villages.
2017 Huguenot, Fixin Petits Crais
Medium-plus colour. Actually a tight nose – just a little saline impression, slowly a little floral too – but the fruit and the depth of aroma are tight. Good volume in the mouth – with plenty of energy too. Fine intensity in the finish – this is very tasty – structured and tasty – have patience. Hopefully, the nose will catch up to the flavour, Potentially excellent villages.
Fixin 1er Cru:
2017 Clos St.Louis, Fixin 1er Les Hervelets
Deeper colour. Airy, wide, subtly spiced but this nose is quite tight below. Very fresh, direct wine yet with lots of breadth. More open and airy in the middle despite plenty of structure. As I keep saying for these Fixin – have a little patience but this is fine.
2017 Derey Frères, Fixin 1er Les Hervelets
A little heavier bottle. Medium-plus colour. A deep nose, but quite a herby one too at least to start; slowly showing more whole-cluster aromas. Ouch, there’s plenty of tannin here – no prisoners – astringent but also fresh-flavoured. Certainly lacking finesse today – altogether now: ‘have patience!’
Deeper coloured. Despite the colour, this has an open, pure and inviting nose. Lots of volume in the mouth, plenty of energy, not astringent – though structured for sure. Mouth-watering, beautiful flavour – bravo – super wine!
2017 Pierre Naigeon, Fixin 1er Hervelets
Medium, medium-plus colour. Hmm – a nose that suggests gas – maybe low sulfur too. Silky, lovely texture over the palate a suggestion of drying from the very fine tannin – but no more. The last rasp of tannin in the finish is a little more than before but an interesting wine – not more.
2017 Albert Bichot, Fixin 1er Clos de la Perrière
A heavy bottle.
Medium-plus colour. The nose is a little forced/extracted though improves with aeration. Lots of impact and volume in the mouth – intense, bright, good energy, a growing frame of tannin with a little astringency. The finishing fruit is very attractive. A big wine, with much potential, if lacking elegance today – it will need patience for that, but potentially excellent.