Tasted in Gilly-lès-Citeaux with Romaric and Romuald Boursot, 22 May 2017.
Domaine Boursot Père et Fils
8 Rue de la Fontaine
Tel: +33 3 80 62 80 82
The Boursots have something that virtually no-one else has in the centre of Chambolle-Musigny – a large tasting room where you can actually buy wine! The parents of Romaric and Romuald Boursot bought their tasting room in 1984, having for a long time lived directly across the road. It was a Hôtel Particulier – an important townhouse – before being put to its current use. Romaric Boursot explains “It’s very old here, and has only small cellars – they are pretty, but not easy for working. We’re building a new cuverie in Gilly – it’s cheaper to build something new, than to try to renovate the old parts like this.” The first vintage to be vinified in Gilly will be 2017, though the 2016s are already there in barrel.
Romaric believes that he and his brother may be the 15th generation of the family, here in Chambolle since 1550 – “always viticulteurs in Chambolle. My mother does the commerce, which is here with the tasting room in Chambolle, the rest will be in Gilly where I work with my brother and father – I’ve been working at the domaine since 2011.”
The domaine farms 4 hectares, principally in Chambolle, with both villages and 3 premier crus. There’s also a little Gevrey, some Nuits and Côte de Nuits Villages. That’s all for the domaine, but there’s a small quantity of négoce wine produced too. Romaric: “My parents started to buy some wine in 1993 – but at this time they bought mainly in bottle and the quality wasn’t the same as from the domaine. Since 2000 we only buy grapes, and work with them in the the same way as the produce of the domaine. The négoce is only about 1.5 hectares worth of produce, but with some nice appellations, such as Vosne, Nuits and Gevrey 1er Cru.”
Despite having the only great degustation cave in Chambolle, they actually don’t sell that much from here; The perception is that everything in Chambolle is expensive, and is already sold out – so why visit? Visitors to the Côte d’Or are much more likely to knock on doors in Pommard or Meursault. Romaric confirms that since 2005 the tourist ‘passage’ has slowed a lot in this corner of the Côtes. About 70% is exported from here.
It’s not advertised on the domaine’s labels, but their work the vines is bio. They 100% destem, before 4-5 days of cool maceration and roughly 20 days of total cuvaison. Two coopers are used today, Romaric’s father used to have 2 year elevage in old barrels, now its more like 14-16 months but with newer barrels – 30-50% new. “The 2015s were anyway big so we didn’t want to exacerbate that with long elevge…”
Talking of 2015, it was a, roughly, normal vintage here – only about 10-15% lower in quantity than ‘normal.’ But of-course 2016 was 70% down due to the frost…
Bottling was done in January…
A nice little discovery here – wines to savour, and some are truly excellent. A domaine to keep an eye on…
Vines next to Clos de Marechale in Corgoloin. It could be 12 barrels – but, due to the frost there was none in 2016!
Really very open, bright and vibrant dark fruit – intense, fruity, a little tannin, but a bright line of delicious flavour here – bravo!
A single parcel, but covering two climats – only 3 barrels worth.
The nose is wide and shows a little smoky oak – a little extra softness here vs the cdnv, great acidity and line, growing intensity and a faint salinity. Wide and lip-smacking flavour in the finish. This has exactly the same oak treatment as the cdnv and whilst it is showing it more – I would say without detriment – yum!
2015 Chambolle-Musigny Les Nazoires
More depth of dark fruit aroma – there is a fine purity of expression here. Bright, fine intensity, no overt oak here, layers, indeed waves of fresh and pure flavour – super texture of very, very fine tannin. The oak perhaps bringing a faint chocolate in the finish. But really an excellent Chambolle here – delicious.
2015 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Lavrottes
Only 1.5 barrels worth – It’s the half barrel that’s new, the full barrel is usually 1 or two years old.
A wider nose of redder fruit, and a very faint oak smoke. Bigger in the mouth, super growing intensity despite the round shape, here is plenty of salinity and complexity, plus a little from the barrel but not disagreeably. Long, and lingering tasty fruit. Super texture again, excellent…
2015 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Chatelots
A wide nose, a little spicy. In the mouth more volume, more concentration less overtly insistent and intense. A nice burst of finishing flavour – complex and long – much more contemplative wine than those before. Slowly adding a little violets impression to the nose with more time in the glass.
A little spice and a dark, deep gelée fruit. Hmm, sleek, fine, super line of flavour. A wine of fine texture and intensity – approaching grand cru level here. I love the finishing complexity, plus the dark, almost spiced, fruit. Deliciously long wine. Bravo – I just need to nose to open a little more! Big finishing wine though!