Tasted in Gevrey-Chambertin with Pierre Duroché, 24 April 2018.
5-7 Place du Monument
Tel: +33 3 80 34 19 10
Link to Latricières-Chambertin profile
Pierre Duroché is a 5th generation vigneron though the actual domaine is in existence a mere 70 years, and at this address only since 2005 but it’s an impressive building with parts of the cellar that date from the 15th century. Pierre’s grandfather was a Duroché from Brochon, his mother a Thomas from Gevrey. This domaine was actually one of the first bottlers – 1933 – under the name of Thomas in Gevrey before the name change to Duroché.
The domaine has 8.5 hectares of vines and all in the commune Gevrey-Chambertin. There are Bourgognes, 5 village cuvées, 5 1er crus and 4 grand crus. It’s about one hectare of grand cru but 5 hectares of villages – this is the major part of the the domaine. Much is exported, and to over 30 countries – about 30% is sold in France – though this ‘domestic’ market is mainly to restaurants and private clients.
The domaine’s Latricières-Chambertin is on the the northern border of the vineyard, facing Chambertin – there is just a vineyard track that separates Latricières from Chambertin here. The holding is of 0.25 hectares of vines that were acquired by Pierre’s father in 1989 from a part of the Remy family. The average age of the vines is hard to say as there are two ages one from the 1960s, others from the 1940s but the domaine doesn’t have specific dates. “There is a lot of rock here but we always get a good maturity – as we should – we don’t usually have more than three clusters per vine!” Pierre explains that this part of Latricières sees less effect from the cool wind that comes down the combe here – it’s much closer to the Charmes-Chambertin of the domaine. “Normally we pick our Clos de Bèze only one day before Latricières. We normally harvest in the morning when the grapes are cool, but there’s no fixed order – except that our Lavaux is always last!”
The domaine’s 2016s were bottled in December, but as all the malos have finished, we will take a look at the 2017s in the cellar right now. Pierre explains that “In general we’ve lots of old parcels, but it was a good harvest despite the limiting factor of the the old vines. It’s a simple vinification, we use stems but the amount depends on the cuvee – I think we have better phenolic maturity in 2017 than in either 2016 or 2015. We’re not a domaine of gas and reduction, but still there’s no racking before the wines go into tank:”
2017 Bourgogne Roncevie
Half a hectare of vines in Gevrey – there are few owners here – Arlaud being the largest.
Fresh, pretty red fruit. Hmm, this is open, nice bright fruit but of depth of flavour too. This is quite lovely.
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Champs
This from the Brochon side, so not EN Champs
A deeper nose, fresh but implying muscle too. Bright, with lots of energy and a sneaky extra depth of flavour. I love the energy here.
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Jeunes Rois
Actually not so Jeunes – these were planted in 52!
A wider depth of aroma, still very red. A hint of salinity, more depth, texture, a little richer wine but beautiful over the palate. Small waves of finishing flavour with a little herbed complexity bundled.
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Lavaux St.Jacques
Almost always the last harvested here – not the Latricières!
A little tighter width, but a super complexity of aroma. Again a little salinity to the entry, a wine that is rather primary but beautifully textured – very long too, but not showing lots today…
There is a little Griotte-Chambertin in the domaine – and for over 100 years too – but they have only made the cuvee since 2011 – before that they simply blended the grapes into their neighbouring plot of villages Gevrey Aux Etelois. And why? I hear you asking – because there are only enough grapes to make 80 bottles – it’s a very small barrel!
These aromas, like the Lavaux, are also a little tight – I’ve more a perception of latent depth. Ooh, that’s beautiful over the palate though – not super complex but super delicious, and wide too, following a great line. As the name, mega-charming wine. The last drops in the glass opening with some super aromatic complexity.
In 16 only one barrel from the quarter hectare!
A beautiful transparency of aroma adding beautiful floral aspects. A wine of width and transparency, more a haunting style than a wine of impact – really cossetting the palate. A touch of tannin in the finish but über-fine. This will be great wine in 2017 – it’s already clear!
2017 Clos de Bèze
These vines planted in 1920
Quite an open nose, slightly salted, adding floral references – airy, not powerful. Wide, energetic, a little mineral, a little less ready than the others, but such complexity.
Not an easy vintage as there was some oïdium and lots of coulure – we only made 20 hl/ha across the domaine – just 2 barrels of this in 2012
A relatively modest colour. The nose is open and the first wave is quite saline – perfumed but a weighty perfume. Ooh, beautiful texture, mega-silky, a roast style to the fruit and I think there was a lot of oak here once – in fact it’s still present and sweet but beginning to melt over the plate now. (Two barrels, one new. Since 2015 a little older wood.) The finish is really persistent, still showing a lot of oak but there is much class here. Wait at least another 5 years if you have this wine, that said there’s still a luxurious wine in waiting, with bright and attractive mid-palate energy…