Tasted in Volnay with Guillaume and Sarah Glantenay, 28 April 2017.
Domaine Georges / Pierre Glantenay & Fils
3 Rue de la Barre
21190 Volnay
Tel: +33 3 80 21 61 82
www.domaineglantenay.com/
The domaine is to be transitioning its name from Pierre (the father) to Georges Glantenay for the next generation, brother and sister Guillaume and Sarah.
35,000 bottles would be normal here, but 75% was lost in 2016 – this morning 45 people were in the vines at 4am with aim of fighting the frost to preserve as much as possible for 2017. In the end they didn’t light their bails of straw as it was ‘hardly minus‘ but they will almost certainly will be lighting them tonight – best of luck with that!
The wines…
2015 Volnay
1.8 hectares worth from 9 different parcels – all below the 1er crus, 15-80 years old vines…
Fine red fruit notes with a hint of spice. Lithe, fresh, juicy red fruit, a growing intensity of flavour. Floral in the finish, almost a little mineral in the length too…
2015 Volnay 1er Santenots
0.4 hectares from Dessous
A little darker fruit but with a fine purity, again with a faint spice. More intensity and a little more energy and flavour dimension – really a fine intensity here, a line of flavour with a modest saline accent. Weighty finishing flavour too. Long and satisfying. Very good.
2015 Volnay 1er Ronceret
Always start harvesting first here as it ripens quite early – right in the centre of the appellation – half a hectare, mainly younger. 40 years-old vines.
A slightly narrower nose – fine top notes of red fruits. Wide, beautiful energy, this is the most forwardly attractive wine so far. Long finishing and very easy to drink.
2015 Volnay 1er Les Brouillards
The biggest single parcel of the domaine, 1.1 ha next to the border with Pommard. 20% young vines – 30 years-old – the rest nearer 80 years old.
A relatively tight nose, but with a finer red fruit aroma. Bigger, fresh, plenty of structure but not with any hard or rustic edges. A little more finishing tannin. I love this, with its extra rigour – but it’s never challenging.
2015 Chambolle-Musigny
From 3 villages terroirs, including Condemennes near Feuselottes and Cras – 5 parcels a mix of young and old wines. Had this cuvee since 2003.
A tighter nose, faintly spiced – hmm, richness of flavour and fine texture. Extra weight eventually – it’s a growing weight, less energy though after the Brouillards.