Tasted in La Chapelle-Vaupelteigne with Grégory Viennois – picture already in apero-mode with white wine – 19 March 2019.
Maison de la Chapelle
Delphine et Grégory Viennois
89800 La Chapelle-Vaupelteigne
www.vins-maisondelachapelle.fr
Grégory on 2017:
“Not much frost in 2017 but still a relatively low yield because of the dryness. As always the grapes were hand harvested, and this year with about 15% whole clusters in the blend and more like 30 in the parcel selection wines. I did a maceration of 15 days, natural decantation in tank before moving the wines to barrel. I used 1.5 g of sulfur but there were no other additives – no filtering or fining – all done by decanting – this has worked really well in the recent vintages.
“All the cuvées are 100% pinot and I’m happy because I think they have the identity of their location – it’s nice juice with a good texture and balance. I think it’s a vintage that’s very Burgundian too – with present but not concentrated or dry tannins – I consider it a nice ‘lecture’ for the appellation…”
The wines…
The ‘basic’ Irancy is excellent here in 2017, but the parcel-selections are to die for!
These bottlings were all done at the end of October:
2017 Irancy
A blend of 4 different climats, Begnots is a new one and has the whole parcel in this – he also had a little in 2015. 2-4 year-old 228 litre barrels.
Lots of colour despite pure pinot. A nice width of aroma with a little floral component. Mouth-filling, lots of concentration but fresh energy foo – there’s no fat here, just an ingraining flavour. Long, almost a chewy extract in the finish – almost a graphite style of mineral finish. To wait for, this is serious wine – Excellent!
Plain south-facing, with a steep, 45°, of slope. Some newer barrels 1-2 years old.
Similar depth of colour, perhaps a little lighter – the extra whole clusters perhaps. A different style of nose – deeper, darker fruit. More energy, more dynamic wine – again a depth of minerality that’s dark and almost graphitic, but essentially a more dynamic with the merest touch of oak in the flavours. A weightier flavour in the finish. The tannin has a little textural grab but there’s hardly a grain. Top!
Light soil, ‘a magnificent parcel.’
Ooh – deeper colour again. Hmm – a little almond note – like a Grands Echézeaux – dark, richer cherry fruit supporting this. More sweetness, but with drive, energy, acidity. An intensity of flavour here but with sufficient cushioning that it’s not sharp. Slowly mouth-watering in the finish, the graphite on a lower order but here is great wine.