2017 Irancy

Update 20.6.2019(26.4.2019)billn

Time to take a better look at how Irancy fared in 2017.

Assembled were samples, tasted blind, in Chablis, 18 March 2017 – the organising of the sampling was kindly done by the BIVB Chablis. In 2017 we are back close to a full yield; with 187 hectares of vines in production in 2017, this harvest volume equates to just under 43 hl/ha as an average yield – so not the big issues with frost seen in 2016 or in Chablis in 2017:

The wines…

Well, one thing’s for sure – blind, I love the wines of Ferrari, Maupertuis and Richoux! This is a vintage with good ripeness – which is important for the césar – but the aromas offer beautiful pinot/Irancy freshness. In some case I note some pyrazine – could ripeness be an issue? Even if so, there are many very delicious wines on offer from 2017 – and at a very rewarding price-point too – enjoy!

2017 Vignoble Dampt, Irancy
Medium colour. A modest weight of aroma but showing a nice red-fruited transparency – an airy impression. Some impact and plenty of freshness that drives the red-fruited flavour. Insinuating red berries and a little more herbed depth of flavour. Actually more attractive than that might sound. Slightly mouth-puckering yet moreish flavours. Yum!

2017 Bersan, Irancy
A vibrant though heavily pyrazined nose. Wide, moth-filling fresh and energetic – the pyrazine of the nose coming through in the flavours too. Complex and still very tasty wine – if you’re not sensitive to pyrazine (and most people aren’t) then this is deliciously complex wine.

2017 Mauperthuis, Irancy Palotte
More depth to the colour. Ooh – cushioned, pure, dark-red fruit – almost a suggestion of bubble-gum. Full, good concentration, fresh and delivering supple layers of flavour. This is very delicious, richer of both flavour and texture. Bravo!
2017 Mauperthuis, Irancy Mazelots
Much paler colour. A nose of high-tones and fine depth – narrower though. Hmm, fresh, full of energy, ingraining the palate with flavour. Full of super finishing energy and persistent, delicious flavour – more classic than the last and absolutely lovely – bravo!

2017 Mauperthuis, Irancy
Another quite pale wine. Tight in the top notes but good depth of aroma. Fresh, weighted, a hint of coconut-style wood in the flavour – but fortunately only a hint. Supple in the middle and finish – and it’s a long finish. This wine is just lacking a bit of energy today, but the flavour is fine.

2017 Bersan, Irancy Cuvée Marianne
A little more colour again. A vibration of pyrazine in what is otherwise a super blend of fresh fruit and flowers – the effect is fine. In the mouth a more overt structure than any that have gone before – there’s no grain to the tannin but some small astringency, there’s some finishing bitters too. This is a wine to wait for, I think the material excellent but 2-3 years patience will be rewarded.

2017 Bersan, Irancy
A more modest colour. A nose with more emphasis on the floral components. Wide, fresh, open, also a little structure here. Another wine to wait for. The finish, stubbornly persistent. I’d say at least 2-3 years waiting, again…

2017 C et F Gueguen, Irancy Les Mazelots
Ooh – deeply reduced. A grain of tannin, perhaps some dissolved CO2 too. A structural wine – the reduction less impactful on the palate. Structure but less astringent than the previous two wines. I find much to look forward to in the flavours – but the heavy reduction means that the nose should be better – this bottle has been open already for 4 hours!

2017 JM Brocard, Irancy ICA ONNA
Deeper colour. Dark red fruit of good width – a suggestion of the floral too. Supple, concentrated, finely layered flavour. Ooh – this is non-standard but absolutely delicious. Richly flavoured – for Irancy. Bravo!
2017 Ferrari, Irancy
Plenty of colour – for Irancy. Deep, lovely, pure fruit – as delivered only in Irancy – such a brilliant invitation! Full, some structure but the fine grain of tannin is ripe. Lots of energy and flavour dimension. Very (pure) fruit-forward in style, and in that style it’s absolutely brilliant. Bravo!
2017 Ferrari, Irancy Les Mazelots
Plenty of colour. A much more higher-toned nose – almost some menthol aspect to this. Hmm, super – wide, ingraining, extra dimensions of fresh flavour. Bravo again – very different, slightly more classic – save for the cushioning to the texture which is probably down to some oak support!
2017 Ferrari, Irancy La Bergère
A brighter pure red colour, if not such a deep colour. A nose that sits between the last two wines – more floral but open, pure and so inviting. More direct, more drive and energy, plenty of concentration, flavour delivered with a fine intensity. Bravo again – such a super, mouth-wateringly layered wine.

2017 Verret, Irancy
Quite a pale wine. Fresh, modest intensity nose – red-fruited with a little herb. In the mouth the shape and intensity of flavour belie the colour and aroma – there’s some richness here and a nicely layered, very red-fruited style – open, transparent. A nice thing.

2017 Verret, Irancy Mazelots
Medium colour. Some perfume but the fruit is rather guarded here. Plenty of scale and freshness – the fruit slowly melting over the palate – seemingly with plenty of oak too. Not my personal style of Irancy, but it’s delicious all the same.

2017 Verret, Palotte
Medium, medium-plus colour. There is an impression of something here – but this nose is more latent than overt. Good scale, fine texture and freshness – there’s a fine presence in the mouth. Touched at the end by a faint tannin but there’s freshly concentrated mid and finishing flavour – and such a super persistence. Excellent!

2017 Verret, Irancy Âme du Domaine
A heavier bottle and a little more colour – a correlation? Perfumed with flowers over a more sullen base of darker red fruit. A faint whisper of CO2. Mouth-filling volume, a little herb in this complexity, but quite some complexity! A little tannin in the finish as a reminder. Very good!

2017 Verret, Irancy Fût de Chêne
Medium colour. Darker red fruit – a little more berry in style. Decent volume in the mouth but coupled to a lovely energy. Not the most weight but a wine that’s complex and light on its feet. I like the finish very much. Lovely…

2017 Givaudin, Irancy
Hardly medium colour. This wine needs a little coaxing from the glass, but there’s a gradual increase in the volume of fruit-flower perfume. Drive and energy, a saline touch to quite a lot of tannin – but ripe tannin – there’s hardly any astringency. Lots of energy and a little floral perfume as a reminder. Excellent – maybe even better with a little more time in the cellar!

2017 Givaudin, Irancy La Bergère
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has dark-inflections to the fruit, and slowly there’s a growing floral lift to the aroma. Big, energetic, fresh wine – direct wine but with super-fine purity to the flavour. Not the most talkative today, but there’s a certain presence here that matches the great finish – bravo!

2017 De la Borde, Irancy
Medium colour. I try to coax more aroma from the glass – but it’s not working – there’s a simmering red berry fruit, but it’s quite distant. Fuller and with more perfumed energy than the nose suggests – actually it’s quite a perfumed wine on the palate – there’s weight and quite some density of finishing flavour too. Really a super finish to this wine – there is some excellence here if the nose can be persuaded to join…

2017 La Croix Montjoie, Irancy
Medium colour again. The aroma is more accessible here – plenty of cushioned red fruit. Wide, really an impressive depth of flavour – still a little tight even – there’s tannin and a certain open-ness to the character – more mouth-watering in the finish and here is some structure. Excellent, and it will reward some modest patience.

2017 Bersan, Irancy Cuvée Louis Bersan
Not quite medium colour. Very open, very red berried fruit, perhaps a growing suggestion of oak too. Yes the oak is more obvious on the palate. Plenty of volume in the mouth, supple and decently fresh – far more concentrated than the colour suggests. Complex and tasty finishing. Very good – but I’d wait for the oak to fade – 2-plus years…

2017 Ferrari, Irancy Le Paradis
Just a little more than medium colour. Hmm – a beautiful nose of freshness and fine, pure red fruit and flowers – only Irancy can do this. Volume, intensity, layers of fresh flavour – really an insinuating flavour – but it’s definitely a wine with something to shout about. There’s some background oak but already without sufficient focus to be annoying. Wide, complex and long. Bravo – super wine!

2017 Ferrari, Irancy Plein Sud
A heavier bottle with a little deeper shade of colour to match. Ooh – not the biggest nose, but with a wonderful flash of brilliant fruit! Plenty of mouth-filling flavour – structured, not obviously oaked – and with that kernel of Irancy fruit. Ooh a super finish too – this is excellent, maybe even better!

2017 Simonnet Febvre, Irancy Paradis
Medium coloured. A different style of aroma – still very red-fruited – but here is a slightly more roasted style – quite compact below, yet working the glass does bring a lot more freshness. Hmm, great drive and presence to this mouth-filling flavour – different to the nose, pure and more ingraining. Here it’s excellent!

2017 Simonnet Febvre, Irancy
A little less than medium colour. Deep, faintly reductive aroma. In the mouth more herbed. Wide, nicely finishing – the finish is the best part.

2017 Clotilde Davenne, Irancy Paradis
There’s some heft to this bottle – once again – a little extra colour to match. Pff – how can this be so pure fruited – it’s like cordial – Ribena! In the mouth there’s plenty of volume and a sweetness that matches the cordial nose and, frankly, beautiful structure that’s topped off with the finest of grain. Absolutely delicious, but absolutely non-standard!

2017 Pascal Bouchard, Irancy Vieilles-Vignes
A little more than medium colour. A deep nose, of flowers, fruit and pyrazine. Supple, fresh and with good energy. There’s a dryness at the extremities from the tannin, some pyrazine flavour too. Tons of energy and quite some finishing intensity – but this clearly needs some patience.

2017 Thierry Richoux, Irancy
Again, just a little more than medium colour. A pretty nose – not full power – but a pure and very attractive blend of fruit and flowers. Some CO2 – and this exacerbates the dryness of the tannin. Lots of volume in the mouth – very good concentration too. A wine that needs more equilibrium – but everything is here. A super finish too – potentially excellent.

2017 Thierry Richoux, Irancy ‘Merci La Foule’
For Irancy, this quite deeply coloured. Deep, cushioned, aroma – swirling releases plenty of oak aroma. Over the palate, the fresh and concentrated wine delivers good freshness of flavour but that flavour is currently accented with the oak so shows no clarity. A big wine, and in some dimensions an impressive wine – but only the finish (more than!) piques my interest – here I’m very impressed. A with no hard edges and lots of concentration – but a wine to bury in the cellar – wait 5 years as a starting point.

2017 Thierry Richoux, Irancy Les Cailles
Medium colour. Hmm – now that’s a nose – fresh, some depth of pure Irancy fruit though with a slightly cushioned impression. Faint gas. Supple, concentrated, layered wine – super intensity here, and perhaps a little oak too. Hmm – wide, melting, yet retaining a certain directness of style. For the patient, but this could be a great Irancy – bravo – such persistence too!

2017 Thierry Richoux, Irancy Veaupessiot
Medium-plus colour. A nose of such concentration that it’s practically strained, practically stewed – though swirling does restore a little freshness. Wide, weighty, fresh wine – of very fine texture. This is über-concentrated and the flavours reflect the nose. Not interesting to drink today – maybe there’s more césar here – but the depth of flavour is quite something. Bury this in your cellar for at least five years.

2017 Thierry Richoux, Irancy Palotte
Lots of colour – I’m assuming that means lots of césar! Deep, brooding, slightly rhubarb aroma – yep, that will be the césar! Big, slightly reduced, some gas too – I suppose this may not be bottled yet. Quite the largest in the mouth. The texture is super and the depth of flavour palpable – the mid and finishing flavour is outstanding – the nose and first flavours have to improve, what follows is great – probably grand vin.

2017 Felix, Irancy Cuvée St.Féréol
A wider, heavier bottle – so I expect more colour – but it’s hardly more than medium coloured for this series. A deep nose, a slightly saline impression, also a nose of freshness – slowly widening in the base – there are no flowers today, but this has an attractive complexity. Direct, some reduction, quite saline, the shape, energy and concentration are first class – but the flavour lags behind today. Except that the finishing persistence is great!

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